- Messages
- 29,212
A bit of this is borrowed from the EP3 buying guide as a lot of it carries over. I've edited out bits that don't apply to the FN2 and added bits that do.
Engine & Drivetrain:
Waterpump and belts seem ok?
Check oil (& cap), coolant, other fluids for levels/condition
Which oil is in the car ran on and is the oil level ok? Shows it's kept an eye on. 5w/40 fully synth is ideal
Blue smoke at the back? Any smoke up front?
VTEC engages properly?
Noises; tappets and lifters etc. Not to worry too much, could just need valve clearances setting. Bartering point!
Gearbox, notchy/crunchy?
3rd gear works ok? No jumping out of any gear?
Clutch feels ok - no juddering? No slipping? No release bearing noise?
Listen for whining from Gearbox
Engine and gearbox mounts, much rocking of engine?
Noises/rattles/vibrations/leaks
Easy to start?
Temp when idling, check fan kicks in
Suspension:
Steering rack noisy, notchy, sticky, dry spots, creaky/clicky
Tramlining? Any excessive pulling left or right?
Tracking – check tyre wear and how wheels sit
Wishbones, bushes etc – does the car sit level?
Steering doesn’t feel loose indicating worn ball joints, track rod ends etc?
Brakes, Wheels & Tyres:
Check condition and wear of brakes and tyres
What are wheels like, corrosion, buckles etc
What brand of tyres, do they match? Good sign of how well the owner cares for the car.
Check rear tyre wear
No brake juddering?
Electrics:
Whirring when ignition on – front headlight adjustment noise?
Lights, heaters, anything worth trying etc, windows, interior lights, mirrors, aircon if applicable
Keyfobs to test locks, key in the door
Interior:
Condition of steering wheel, plastics, seats, door cards
Carpet condition, check not wet, same for A/B/C pillars and boot
Window rattles and good performance going up and down incase of faulty window mech
Check all electrics inside work – lights, windows, wipers, stalks, switches etc
Seats feel solid, not rocky etc, same for door cards if leant on hard
Exterior:
Rust in general and on the roof, under the rubbers on the doors, hinges (boot hinges/door hinges/bonnet hinges)
Dents/Scratches/Stone chips
Paint issues – laquer, fading, swirls etc, headlight fading/blotchy, side skirts loose?
Check under the sills and jacking points for damage, under bumpers/skirts also for scuffs/cracks
Docs, History, Other:
Both keys?
All history – manuals, service books (check stamps), receipts, MOT cert(s), tax discs, V5 docs, Type R Leather Folder
Check HPI clear
Locking wheel nut key!
History on major services, 50k service, 75k service
75k service details? Valve clearance, belts, filters, fluids, hinges etc
CTR Buyers Guide
What should I look out for
3rd Gear
2007 cars were renowned for this and now some later models are starting to exhibit the same symptoms. The synchro on the third gear would prematurely wear and there is a warranty fix (for cars still under warranty).
Third gear can feel notchy on selection and if the wear is enough, the car will pop out of third gear shortly after selection.
Clutch
Clutch can whine a little when cold just at the biting point. This is known of by Honda but the clutch operation is not affected by this. Some clutches were replaced by Honda but the issue came back, so Honda are now not forthcoming with replacing clutches.
Squeaking clutch pedal. This can be the pedal box where the washers from the pedal spring have broken or come out completely, or the clutch master cylinder has dried up on the pedal side. Both were replaced under warranty but you will have to pay for it on a car out of warranty. If you are lucky lubrication of the clutch pedal assembly and/or the master cylinder where the rod from the clutch assembly goes into it can resolve the issue but it may come back. Use a motorbike chain lube as it does not evaporate like WD40.
Clicking clutch pedal can also be the pedal box, but you will always hear a slight click from the cruise control deactivation switch.
Noisy Valves (Clearances)
You may hear a tappety sound, more prevalent when the car is cold but also heard once it is warmed up. The clearances should be checked every 25k at the closest service and not necessarily on every 2nd service on the schedule. A lot of main dealers seem to neglect this check and adjustment so make sure they have been done.
More common with the FN2 is the noise of the injectors being confused for noisy tappets. The injectors are quite noisy on idle and this is normal.
Subframe click
The front subframe has been known to click when under hard acceleration or braking. This dirt getting caught between two sections of the subframe and is nothing more than an annoyance.There is a Honda fix for this.
Bulletin for it here: https://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&r...=UXgN6ygw-Dw4eIs_H3isew&bvm=bv.47534661,d.ZG4
Rocker Cover Paint
Under the bonnet, the Rocker Cover may have paint flaking away. It's nothing to worry about, just makes the engine bay look untidy!
Door Handles
The plastic covers on the door handles have been known to break away from their fixings leaving the plastic cover loose. This is a warranty repair if the car is still under warranty. The handle cover isn't sold separately and needs a complete replacement handle so not cheap. The cover can be glued back on but depending on the glue used has been known to come loose again.
Wing mirrors
A module in the wing mirrors can fail which either stops the wing mirrors folding or makes them fold extremely slowly. Each mirror has its own module and fail independently of each other. Replacement module called the SOD (Shut off device) and is part number 76209-SMG-E01 and is a 5 minute fix.
Full bulletin:
Rattles
Honda build quality did seem to take a dive on the 8th gen Civic. Rattles have been reported in the headlining, dash and from the windscreen.
Headlining is usually a loose cable that needs taping down or a loose clip if the headlining has been out for the fitting of aftermarket electronics (parrot/parking sensors etc).
Dash rattles are much harder to diagnose. Again could be a loose cable, some rattles have been the dash brightness button or the mph/kph button. People have been known to use bluetak to stop the button rattles.
Some dashes have been removed and refitted by dealers under warranty and still not cured the rattle. Most you'll learn to live with.
Windscreen rattle is a simple fix. Water and dirt can get between the windscreen cowl (scuttle) and the windscreen which when the car is moving can make a rattle or in some cases a loud slapping noise. Remove the cowl (push pin at either side and one in the middle) and stick on a length of self adhesive foam tape and refit. Problem solved.
Suspension squeaks
Rear suspension can creak when cold/first moving away literally for the first couple of corners. Honda are aware but it is not a safety issue so there is not a high likelihood of a dealer fix. Lubricating the top and bottom of the shocks has been known to alleviate the issue but it more than likely will return.
Rust
Quite a new one, but the rubber strip at the top of the windscreen has been known to cut the paint and result in the roof starting to bubble. This should be covered under the 12 years anti corrosion warranty but currently some people are in the throws of attempting a claim from Honda UK for this.
On pre-facelift cars (before 2009) the rubber seal on the top of the doors at the edge closest to the B-pillar allowed water to pool meaning they started to rust where the paint was thinnest. Doors were replaced under warranty but a preventative measure was to put a decent blob of touch up paint on the door metal. Cars after the facelift had a revised rubber.
Recalls
So far only two major recalls affected the FN2, both no cost recalls.
The first was the replacement of the MICU box (fancy name for a fuse box) on 2008 models. The faulty unit would not go to sleep when the car was turned off and would drain the battery if the car was not run regularly. Some people reported flat batteries after a couple of days of not running the car and particularly if auto wipers and headlights had been left in the auto position. Recall consisted of replacement of the offending MICU.
The second more recent one affected all FN2s manufactured and related to a section of the wiring loom to the O/S front headlight. If the loom was incorrectly routed on the assembly line it could catch in the O/S engine mount and fray. Recall consisted of inspection of the routing and if necessary repair or if required complete replacement of that section of the wiring loom.
Type R vs Type R GT
The GT got additional equipment which included:
Auto rain sensing wipers
Auto dusk sensing headlights
Dual zone climate control (non GT cars didn't have AC)
Refrigerated glove box (switch-able vent to blow AC into glove box not an actual fridge)
Fog lights
Electric folding wing mirrors
Cruise control
Facelifts/Other editions
In 2009 the car got a minor facelift. This included dropping of the non-GT model, the addition of HIDs and the associated headlight washers and self leveling headlights, AUX connection as standard and tyre pressure warning system. Easiest way to tell a facelift is if it has the headlight washers but also the VIN will have an 09/10 in it.
Championship White edition released with a run of 600, included all of the facelift additions and door handles, petrol filler cap and grill accent were in a dark chrome colour. All CW cars had an LSD as standard.
Deep Bronze Pearl was dropped just before the facelift was introduced and there was the introduction of Deep Sapphire Blue and Nighthawk Black replaced by Crystal Black Pearl. Cars manufactured after April 2010 also had an LSD as standard.
2010 saw the release of the M200 Mugen special editions, limited to 200 and based on the Championship White model so included the LSD. They also came with Honda 19" Lightning alloys, Mugen front and rear lower splitters, Mugen badge on the boot lid and a x/200 Mugen plaque in place of the standard one near the gear knob. Also came with correspondingly numbered document/manual booklet wallet.
If there is anything else that you think should be added, post up and I'll amend this OP.
Engine & Drivetrain:
Waterpump and belts seem ok?
Check oil (& cap), coolant, other fluids for levels/condition
Which oil is in the car ran on and is the oil level ok? Shows it's kept an eye on. 5w/40 fully synth is ideal
Blue smoke at the back? Any smoke up front?
VTEC engages properly?
Noises; tappets and lifters etc. Not to worry too much, could just need valve clearances setting. Bartering point!
Gearbox, notchy/crunchy?
3rd gear works ok? No jumping out of any gear?
Clutch feels ok - no juddering? No slipping? No release bearing noise?
Listen for whining from Gearbox
Engine and gearbox mounts, much rocking of engine?
Noises/rattles/vibrations/leaks
Easy to start?
Temp when idling, check fan kicks in
Suspension:
Steering rack noisy, notchy, sticky, dry spots, creaky/clicky
Tramlining? Any excessive pulling left or right?
Tracking – check tyre wear and how wheels sit
Wishbones, bushes etc – does the car sit level?
Steering doesn’t feel loose indicating worn ball joints, track rod ends etc?
Brakes, Wheels & Tyres:
Check condition and wear of brakes and tyres
What are wheels like, corrosion, buckles etc
What brand of tyres, do they match? Good sign of how well the owner cares for the car.
Check rear tyre wear
No brake juddering?
Electrics:
Whirring when ignition on – front headlight adjustment noise?
Lights, heaters, anything worth trying etc, windows, interior lights, mirrors, aircon if applicable
Keyfobs to test locks, key in the door
Interior:
Condition of steering wheel, plastics, seats, door cards
Carpet condition, check not wet, same for A/B/C pillars and boot
Window rattles and good performance going up and down incase of faulty window mech
Check all electrics inside work – lights, windows, wipers, stalks, switches etc
Seats feel solid, not rocky etc, same for door cards if leant on hard
Exterior:
Rust in general and on the roof, under the rubbers on the doors, hinges (boot hinges/door hinges/bonnet hinges)
Dents/Scratches/Stone chips
Paint issues – laquer, fading, swirls etc, headlight fading/blotchy, side skirts loose?
Check under the sills and jacking points for damage, under bumpers/skirts also for scuffs/cracks
Docs, History, Other:
Both keys?
All history – manuals, service books (check stamps), receipts, MOT cert(s), tax discs, V5 docs, Type R Leather Folder
Check HPI clear
Locking wheel nut key!
History on major services, 50k service, 75k service
75k service details? Valve clearance, belts, filters, fluids, hinges etc
CTR Buyers Guide
What should I look out for
3rd Gear
2007 cars were renowned for this and now some later models are starting to exhibit the same symptoms. The synchro on the third gear would prematurely wear and there is a warranty fix (for cars still under warranty).
Third gear can feel notchy on selection and if the wear is enough, the car will pop out of third gear shortly after selection.
Clutch
Clutch can whine a little when cold just at the biting point. This is known of by Honda but the clutch operation is not affected by this. Some clutches were replaced by Honda but the issue came back, so Honda are now not forthcoming with replacing clutches.
Squeaking clutch pedal. This can be the pedal box where the washers from the pedal spring have broken or come out completely, or the clutch master cylinder has dried up on the pedal side. Both were replaced under warranty but you will have to pay for it on a car out of warranty. If you are lucky lubrication of the clutch pedal assembly and/or the master cylinder where the rod from the clutch assembly goes into it can resolve the issue but it may come back. Use a motorbike chain lube as it does not evaporate like WD40.
Clicking clutch pedal can also be the pedal box, but you will always hear a slight click from the cruise control deactivation switch.

Noisy Valves (Clearances)
You may hear a tappety sound, more prevalent when the car is cold but also heard once it is warmed up. The clearances should be checked every 25k at the closest service and not necessarily on every 2nd service on the schedule. A lot of main dealers seem to neglect this check and adjustment so make sure they have been done.
More common with the FN2 is the noise of the injectors being confused for noisy tappets. The injectors are quite noisy on idle and this is normal.
Subframe click
The front subframe has been known to click when under hard acceleration or braking. This dirt getting caught between two sections of the subframe and is nothing more than an annoyance.There is a Honda fix for this.
Bulletin for it here: https://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&r...=UXgN6ygw-Dw4eIs_H3isew&bvm=bv.47534661,d.ZG4
Rocker Cover Paint
Under the bonnet, the Rocker Cover may have paint flaking away. It's nothing to worry about, just makes the engine bay look untidy!
Door Handles
The plastic covers on the door handles have been known to break away from their fixings leaving the plastic cover loose. This is a warranty repair if the car is still under warranty. The handle cover isn't sold separately and needs a complete replacement handle so not cheap. The cover can be glued back on but depending on the glue used has been known to come loose again.
Wing mirrors
A module in the wing mirrors can fail which either stops the wing mirrors folding or makes them fold extremely slowly. Each mirror has its own module and fail independently of each other. Replacement module called the SOD (Shut off device) and is part number 76209-SMG-E01 and is a 5 minute fix.

Full bulletin:


Rattles
Honda build quality did seem to take a dive on the 8th gen Civic. Rattles have been reported in the headlining, dash and from the windscreen.
Headlining is usually a loose cable that needs taping down or a loose clip if the headlining has been out for the fitting of aftermarket electronics (parrot/parking sensors etc).
Dash rattles are much harder to diagnose. Again could be a loose cable, some rattles have been the dash brightness button or the mph/kph button. People have been known to use bluetak to stop the button rattles.
Windscreen rattle is a simple fix. Water and dirt can get between the windscreen cowl (scuttle) and the windscreen which when the car is moving can make a rattle or in some cases a loud slapping noise. Remove the cowl (push pin at either side and one in the middle) and stick on a length of self adhesive foam tape and refit. Problem solved.
Suspension squeaks
Rear suspension can creak when cold/first moving away literally for the first couple of corners. Honda are aware but it is not a safety issue so there is not a high likelihood of a dealer fix. Lubricating the top and bottom of the shocks has been known to alleviate the issue but it more than likely will return.




Rust
Quite a new one, but the rubber strip at the top of the windscreen has been known to cut the paint and result in the roof starting to bubble. This should be covered under the 12 years anti corrosion warranty but currently some people are in the throws of attempting a claim from Honda UK for this.
On pre-facelift cars (before 2009) the rubber seal on the top of the doors at the edge closest to the B-pillar allowed water to pool meaning they started to rust where the paint was thinnest. Doors were replaced under warranty but a preventative measure was to put a decent blob of touch up paint on the door metal. Cars after the facelift had a revised rubber.
Recalls
So far only two major recalls affected the FN2, both no cost recalls.
The first was the replacement of the MICU box (fancy name for a fuse box) on 2008 models. The faulty unit would not go to sleep when the car was turned off and would drain the battery if the car was not run regularly. Some people reported flat batteries after a couple of days of not running the car and particularly if auto wipers and headlights had been left in the auto position. Recall consisted of replacement of the offending MICU.
The second more recent one affected all FN2s manufactured and related to a section of the wiring loom to the O/S front headlight. If the loom was incorrectly routed on the assembly line it could catch in the O/S engine mount and fray. Recall consisted of inspection of the routing and if necessary repair or if required complete replacement of that section of the wiring loom.
Type R vs Type R GT
The GT got additional equipment which included:
Auto rain sensing wipers
Auto dusk sensing headlights
Dual zone climate control (non GT cars didn't have AC)
Refrigerated glove box (switch-able vent to blow AC into glove box not an actual fridge)
Fog lights
Electric folding wing mirrors
Cruise control
Facelifts/Other editions
In 2009 the car got a minor facelift. This included dropping of the non-GT model, the addition of HIDs and the associated headlight washers and self leveling headlights, AUX connection as standard and tyre pressure warning system. Easiest way to tell a facelift is if it has the headlight washers but also the VIN will have an 09/10 in it.
Championship White edition released with a run of 600, included all of the facelift additions and door handles, petrol filler cap and grill accent were in a dark chrome colour. All CW cars had an LSD as standard.
Deep Bronze Pearl was dropped just before the facelift was introduced and there was the introduction of Deep Sapphire Blue and Nighthawk Black replaced by Crystal Black Pearl. Cars manufactured after April 2010 also had an LSD as standard.
2010 saw the release of the M200 Mugen special editions, limited to 200 and based on the Championship White model so included the LSD. They also came with Honda 19" Lightning alloys, Mugen front and rear lower splitters, Mugen badge on the boot lid and a x/200 Mugen plaque in place of the standard one near the gear knob. Also came with correspondingly numbered document/manual booklet wallet.
If there is anything else that you think should be added, post up and I'll amend this OP.