• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Car heating up very fast!!

Messages
119
Basically three days ago, I left my car running in the morning to warm it up and I sat there for about a minute and it reached the optimum temperature. Every since it has heated up very fast and really starting to worry. I checked the oil and did an oil change and replaced the oil filter. I checked the radiator and it's at it's max, the only thing that was empty was the radiator bottle, which I have filled up since and it has lost anything. The car itself isn't over heating, just warming up too fast compared to normal.

Also my car has fluctuation in the revs, when idling. Now I have checked the IACV sensor ( sp ) and cleaned it but didn't stop it but slowed it down, although now it just idles at 1.5 k. I have a few mods on the car, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, exhaust , Tegiwa m induction, fuel rail. I was wondering whether the car just needs to be tuned?

Any ideas would be appreciated as I've stopped driving the car now : )

Thanks
 
All without tuning. That is next on the list, hopefully next month. Could that be causing the heating problems do you think?
 
Nah sounds like a thermostat problem, could be stuck open. Do you get hOt air as quick as it gets up too temp? Have you fitted a aftermarket low temp stat? Not using or losing water for sure?
 
It was losing water, from the radiator bottle but the rate I've lost it has slowed down. I haven't fitted a low temp stat. My Brother and I presumed Thermostat after all the checks I've done. Did lose a fair bit of water though, continuously?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Check all your elbows and pipes, thermostat housing too, sounds to me like there is air in your system and/or the stat is stuck closed. When the car says its warm check the top hose for water and heat just squeeze it, if it's cold and emPty it's the stat, check for hot air from the heaters too when the car says warm if they are cold you need too bleed the water system, leave the car running on a flat surface with the expansion bottle and radiator cap off. This also will only work if the stat is working/open. hope that makes sense pal
 
Where is the thermostat located? I've had a quick look for it tonight but with no luck ( and it was raining quite heavily ). Right ok and by leaving the expansion bottle and radiator cap off what exactly is that doing?
 
Letting the air escape from your system. Oh before I forget don't ever put cold water in a hot engine you could crack the head
 
Well too be honest I've been running them for a while now without real problem, only when I added intake manifold did the fluctuation in revs start happening. I'm getting it tuned next month ( as currently working abroad ) at Eurospec. So that is next on my list as soon as I get paid!
 
You say without problems, but have you monitored a/f ratio and temperatures etc?
 
Your sucking in a hell of a lot of air for standard ecu fueling!

Do you find the car hesitates when pulling away normally from a standing start?
 
Firstly, you shouldn't start the car and leave it running to warm up. You should start and drive straight away. Leaving it idling does more damage than good as the oil has little pressure to circulate.

As for the water loss. Any water/damp in the footwells? Could be a leaking heater matrix.

As for leaving the caps off, do this with the heaters on full speed, on full heat and and squeeze the pipes. See if any air comes out. It should burp.

High idle is a sign of iacv sticking/fluctuating.

Thermostat is in the front of the block under the IM IIRC.

OH, and get a map!
 
Firstly, you shouldn't start the car and leave it running to warm up. You should start and drive straight away. Leaving it idling does more damage than good as the oil has little pressure to circulate.

is this correct pal, i leave my car idling for about 10mins EVERY morning before work!!!!!! ????
 
No, I made it up.....

The sooner you start driving with light load, the faster the oil can circulate around the engine, at a greater pressure, thus heating up faster, thinning quicker and doing a better job of protecting the engine to it's full potential sooner.

Also, the sooner the engine is up to temp, the sooner it is at it's most efficient, using less fuel. Also, foulling the plugs less, helping them to last longer.
 
Why wouldn't it? Does it have a K20 or S2000 oil pump? If so then yes it does.

I'm not sure loxy,Car isn't completed...still waiting and it will be a turbo (Not sure if this makes a difference) . Is my understanding correct then that if a car still utilizes the original oil pump then the principle applies no matter what the BHP output is, even if it's supercharged/turbo'd?

When I brought my EP3 everytime I drove it straight away without warming it up, I found the gear change to be quite rough and was told it is good to warm the car before driving off, but this doesn't seem to be the case.
 
Back
Top