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Car Starting Problem (garage doesn't even know)

R66MEAD

R66MEAD

Messages
53
Hello all

Symptom: when starting the car from cold it turns over but really struggles to fire and i have to apply some throttle (10-15 seconds or more) sometimes (left over the weekend then Monday morning start) it doesn't start at all, it just turns over and and doesn't quiet fire even with jump leads or bump starting :-(. It took me and the mechanic from the garage 40mins to get it started on Monday morning which involved numerous amounts of unplugging the lead to the fuel pump then turning it over to dry off the spark plugs. (and connected to the jump leads all of this time)

Recently just had new clutch, radiator, spark plugs, oil filter and change. Once it finally fires from cold it sounds like its just missing a little bit for a couple of seconds if that, then its absolutely fine. The car runs absolutely fine and when i stop when its warm and re-start it, it starts fine straight away. There is no EML and the thermo sensor has been replaced. Idle control valve is also clean and working fine.

Properly confused, and not enjoying getting up for work and wondering if the car is going to start or not now.
Any ideas anybody?

Cheers
 
Have you checked the timing, chain and tensioner?
 
It would affect running absolutely.

If the cam timing is out of phase then yes, it would struggle to start and run.

If it's cranking, and getting fuel, then it's more than likely an ignition fault.

Probably a coil pack. Any fault codes?
 
I know it would effect running and starting, but i only have starting issue as car runs fine. Theres no fault codes unfortunatly
 
I've just signed up myself, I bought an EP3 the other day which has similar symptoms to what you've described. After speaking to a number of people, the likely cause is a failed fuel pump/sender unit. It would have a weak start, and would misfire a couple of seconds but would instantly clear itself and run faultlessly, even on vtec.

Im trying to source a replacement unit to see if that helps. I've heard the filter can clog, which can reduce pressure. Also the release valve can jam open causing the pressure to drop.
 
I would check coil packs first as you've said you've already changed plugs maybe one of them is starting to go. After that then look at fuelling before checking the timing.
I had this kind of problem on a different car and eventually (after eliminating problems) found the fuel pump had naffed.
 
Just to update -

I've got the same symptoms as R66MEAD. I have;

replaced the fuel pump - still the same
replaced spark plugs - still the same
replaced coil packs - still the same

I have no fault codes, i have perfect oil and coolant, so i am now going to be getting a compression and leakdown test. The most likely cause for this problem is either head gasket failure or a cracked head. This allows a tiny bit of coolant to leak down into the combustion chamber which dampens the spark plus, effecting startup when cold. Once the car fires and all 4 cylinders fire, there is no fault.

I have seen dozens of threads with this problem, but not one person has diagnosed properly and confirmed the problem.

Next question - anyone know what sort of cost i can expect from Honda to replace the head gasket?...

Cheers
 
Hi

I replaced the fuel sender unit and the car started fine for about 4 days and now the problem has come back. I was thinking of replacing the fuel pump as i cant really hear the prime sound anymore.

I cant quite picture water getting into the cylinder itself, especially not directly on the plug. The side of the liner or cylinder would have to crack to get water in i think and you would notice a substantial drop in compression.

Is yours purely a starting issue as well once it has been stood for a good few hours? and does it run fine when you eventually get it started?

I literally have no more avenues to explore now apart from book the car in at Honda.
 
Hi

I bought an atr a couple of weeks ago and I'm having the same sort of issues. Drove faultless for a few days then went to start it to go to work, fired for a few second running very lumpy then died. After a couple of days of turning it over numerous times it came to life really lumpy then cleared itself. Car ran faultless again for the next week and has now decided to do the same thing again.

Did you find a solution?
 
rpblades78 said:
Hi

I bought an atr a couple of weeks ago and I'm having the same sort of issues. Drove faultless for a few days then went to start it to go to work, fired for a few second running very lumpy then died. After a couple of days of turning it over numerous times it came to life really lumpy then cleared itself. Car ran faultless again for the next week and has now decided to do the same thing again.

Did you find a solution?
Click to expand...

I actually have solved my issues. The tensioner failed and allowed the chain to go slack and jumped a tooth/teeth. I went to start it one day and it ran for 5 seconds at a time while misfiring then the ecu cut the engine. It would not keep running. I had fault code P0341 which was cam position sensor. So i bought new chain, tensioner and guides and booked it into an indy garage to have it all done, and it's been spot on since. I was lucky to get genuine honda parts cheap, but tegiwa sell the parts together for about £270. Any garage should be able to do the work in 3.5hours. Honda want £800 for the job all in.

Have you got any fault codes coming up? I had six altogether including one for each cylinder misfire, and one for random misfires.
 
Thanks for the reply DanEP3
I've not had a chance to get car on any diagnostics yet, but had no warning lights when the car did run. The car ran perfect when I did get it started with no misfire. When I crank the car it does try to start but seems like it's getting flooded with strong smell of petrol. Pulled the plugs this morning and they covered in fuel, so not sure if I have a problem with over fuelling.
 
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