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Cluster Calibration ?

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88
Hi Folks! First post :) been lurking for a while but now is the right time to post and say hi. Proud owner of a EP3 which I bought in Nov. 04, cosmic, facelift, 76K on the clock with FSH. My I add I have had no problems with the car, runs and pulls well all levels are fine and even managed to carry out an oil change and filter myself (which is good for me, pretty easy job to be honest) with Titan pro S.

Back to the problem in hand… last week it only occurred to me that I noticed the EML light was not coming up on the dash on ignition (Yes I know, probably a rookie error when looking/buying a new car). I didn’t think it was a problem as the car run perfectly fine, pulls well into VTEC, only gripe would be the car runs juicy (25mpg is my best, driving like a grandad not going over 2.5K revs) but my old car was a 1.6 astra so I just thought it was just expected from a performance car. So for peace of mind I put my mates/mechanic snap on diagnostics machine on it. Came back with one code

P0141 Ho2s S2 Heater circuit malfunction

After a bit of research on here this is the failure of the o2 sensor (sensor 2 post cat) which by the looks of it is a common fault. Checked it has voltage going to it so the sensor is faulty and definitely needs replacing. I know a lot of folks on here say to get the Honda part which is expensive but are there any other OEM parts which would be just a good. My mechanic can get the NGK sensor for £43 but unsure how good these are?

Anyway this should of definitely of highlighted the EML light on the dash which it did not. (the car didn’t/ hasn’t been in limp mode as it goes into VTEC)

So… after further investigation by taking the cluster out one of the previous owners has ripped off the LED for the EML light on the circuit board of the cluster so it wouldn’t illuminate EVER! Obviously trying to hide the problem of the sensor when selling the car. Has anyone ever heard of people doing this? The seller seemed very genuine as well :(

Luckily there were no other codes which came up on the diagnostics which is good, just the o2 sensor. Also I had my mechanic check the car over thoroughly, no other faults with the car which has put my mind at rest. Today I took the cluster into the electronics department at my work and they managed to solder on a new LED onto the circuit board of my cluster. I now have a pure white EML light now not a yellow one :) I plugged it in and there is good and bad news.

The good news is the EML light works, it stays on after ignition meaning it is recognising the fault with the sensor. The bad news is the rev,speedo,temp and fuel gauges are all over the shop. So ultimately, the main question of this tread…. is there a calibration procedure for the cluster to get all the meters reading the correct values? I was hoping when I put the needles back on it would re-calbrate itself but this was not the case unfortunately. Also I don’t think there is a key/ a notch for the needles to go onto to put them in the ‘correct position’ if you are with me. sorry if I have explained this badly. Any feedback or help would be greatly appreciated.

Shane
 
Hi,

I have never heard of a Dial Calibration for the clocks. I do however have a set of clocks in my garage that your welcome to have. They are out of a 52 Preface lift, but I dont think they are different to Facelift.
 
Well thats very kind and thank you very much for the offer but I would like to keep the cluster to keep the original mileage of the car. I know who to shout if I change my mind. Anyone else done this before? I could just get a gps and match the speedo to that, fill the car up with fuel and set it to full etc but would rather use a more accurate and reliable method
 
Quick update... I used a great little app called torque pro which I connected up to the diagnostics plugin. Gives a digital read out of the revs. So I moved the needle to
the exact read out. Going to do the speed on a gps and the temp is pretty easy as I knew where the temp was when the engine was hot. Just fuel guage to do next.
 
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