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Clutch advice needed, possible master cylinder

L

lumox11

Messages
8
Hi all,

ive recently put a new clutch in my ep3, it's a lot smoother now changing gear but the bite is still on the floor. I've bled and changed the clutch fluid, it did make it smoother between gears but it's still not right. I have trouble getting into first at times.

I drive about 10 miles to work and in the morning with no stop starting in traffic it's pretty good to within a mile or 2 of work when I hit traffic. Which is when it starts to get hard to get it into first gear to pull off (sometimes I pull off in second because it doesn't want to go in firs).

On on my way home when I hit more traffic (a lot of stop starting) it gets really bad, almost impossible to get it into first gear.

When I pull up on the drive then I try putting it in 4th for example while stationary and the car jumps forward as if the pedal is not fully depressed.

im thinking master cylinder, has anyone got any advise or other ideas before I change the master cylinder!

thanks
 
You can adjust the bite point by adjusting the pedal on both the FN2 and EP3. Might be worth doing that before replacing the master cylinder. You'll find how to on google, I don't think a guide has been posted on here. :oops:
 
I tried adjusting the pedal with no joy, I've got a master cylinder to go on but I've just had a bad accident in work so I won't be able to do it for a while. If this doesn't sort it what would be the next thing to check
 
Still after some help, I've finally fitted the master cylinder and bled the clutch again but it hasn't resolved the problem. The bite is still right on the floor, is there anything else to try to try and raise the bite point.
 
What brand clutch did you fit? As previously said the clutch pedal will also need adjusting correctly after fitting the master.
 
Yes the rod will need adjusting.
Also there was an issue with aftermarket clutches where the fork throw wasn't enough to disengage the clutch and a washer/spacer needs to be added on the pivot point in the bell housing to extend the throw. I'm not sure if this applies with the RPC stage 1. I remember it was required on some stage 2/3 clutches.
 
I just reversed off the drive no problem, I went to put it in 1st and it won't go. The gearstick won't go over between the first and second gears, I can get every other gear fine it won't even go to the left hand side in neutral. I'm thinking the slave cylinder on the gearbox. Any ideas?
 
If it won't move into the left 'gate' then sounds more like linkage issue either not installed correctly or not adjusted correctly
 
Managed to sort the 1st and 2nd gear problem, a small washer had dropped under the linkage. Lol (after hours of looking).

the new slave cylinder has made an improvement to the feel of the pedal and bite point and the clutch has been manually and pressure bled countless times, but it's still not fully disengaging.

The slave cylinder is fully extending but the car will jump forward when trying to engage gears and 9/10 I can't engage reverse.

When the engines off all the gears work lovely, making me think there's a problem with the clutch or pressure plate.

Has anyone got any other ideas before I take the gearbox back out and look at getting anoth clutch kit.

(Lewisgame I was thinking the same about a spacer but I don't really want to put it all back together to have to strip it all back down unless I'm 100% it will sort it. Any idea what size spacer?)
 
I've bit the bullet and bought a new clutch, had it fitted and drive spot on. Lesson learnt, don't buy a clutch from RPC. It's cost me a fortune having to pay labour for 2 clutch changes plus a new slave cylinder and master cylinder which RPC said was the problem because they apparently have never had a problem with any of there clutches before.

P.S with the car not selecting 1st or 2nd gear after hours of looking there was a small stone under the linkage lol
 
Clutches have been the bane of my life. I had five over three years in my Silver FN2. :lol:

Glad you got it sorted. :smt023
 
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