Clutch drag problem, advise appreciated

[SmegHead]

So my EP3 has developed a clutch issue, I think it's dragging as it's very difficult if not impossible to get it into gear except when stone cold, if any heat is in the clutch it won't work. It doesn't grind into gear, rather makes a whirring noise and can feel being engine braked a little if downshifting). The car has a Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck paddle clutch and CM flywheel fitted with about 40k on them.
I originally thought it was a hydraulic system failure as the problem kicked it immediately when the car was stated for commute home, rather than gradually getting worse as would be expected with clutch wear, and it happens in all gears so I've discounted syncros being the issue. I managed to nurse it home by rev matching and double-declutching.

The original clutch master and slave cylinders were still fitted so I've replaced both, this has made the clutch feel better but has not resolved the problem. Thinking back the bite point has not changed throughout so I'm now thinking it's not a hydraulic issue, and not a problem with the release fork being bent etc as that would also have changed the biting point.

Now the gearbox needs to come off and after that many miles it's probably going to needs a new clutch anyway, and I now reckon that given the immediate onset the problem is either going to be a failed release bearing, broken pressure plate\finger or the friction disc has worn enough then a rivet it now running against the flywheel (when I am able to get it into first with clutch down I can hear a bit of whirring noise, really hope it's not this).
Bearing in mind paddle clutches hate being slipped I think it could also just be shagged through wear but would have expected it to be more gradual decline in shifting.

Anything else this could be other than the above? And any recommendations for a non-paddle clutch other than the CM FX300 that'll hold up to 400hp\250lbft?
Cheers!

 

[SmegHead]

After some further research & consideration I've decided that more than 40k on a ceramic paddle clutch used as a daily with all the associated stop\start usage is actually pretty good going and it's likely just a worn out clutch, so have committed to a replacement FX400 this coming Fri. New Honda MTF, driveshaft oil seals and sundry other bits being thrown at the local indy to sort it.

If anything unexpected or interesting happens I'll update, but obviously I hope it's all dull and just works

 

[SmegHead]

Update for posterity - clutch was worn out, a new one has fixed it. Quite odd that it suddenly decided to give up the ghost instead of slowly failing, especially as nothing had obviously suffered a failure, but there you go.
Now shifts lovely and the slightly notchiness going into 2nd and bit of judder in 1st I'd previously attributed to the gearbox and paddle clutch are gone, so the signs of a worn clutch were actually there all along.

I ended up replacing with an FX400 as I'm otherwise was happy with its performance.

Now to solve the mystery misfire problem that's cropped up, oh the joy.

 

[Daz6]

Glad you got it sorted, mine needs doing soon but I need to find a decent garage within around a two hour drive. I don't trust people working on my car!

 

[SmegHead]

Glad you got it sorted, mine needs doing soon but I need to find a decent garage within around a two hour drive. I don't trust people working on my car!

Yeah it's a pain finding a place you trust to do the work especially as all the Honda specialists or major tuners are usually booked up weeks if not months in advance, though really a clutch change is bread & butter for most garages so they should be able to do it right. To be honest a standard car is actually more difficult as the manual says to remove the exhaust to access the rear engine mount, this isn't needed with an aftermarket exhaust and as I've got a CAI going down to the wheel arch the entire top of the gearbox is also totally accessible. This pleased the tech who did the work on my car no end when I pointed it out to him

Just ask prospective garages the right questions and gauge their answers. I asked if the labour quoted (I supplied the parts) took into account the subframe drop it requires, they were well aware of that and automatically asked me if I also had the needed driveshaft seals and MTF for the gearbox. This all put my mind at ease.
When I picked it up they made a point of mentioning that they put the subframe back in the correct place using witness marks and said "we checked the toe settings but didn't touch the rest of the geometry as the toe shows it's in the right place (equal both sides and within spec) and you probably have custom fast road\track settings so left the rest alone".
I now trust this place to do standard stuff and might throw the car back at them to do the remaining rear susp bushes, hubs and brakes that are waiting to go on. Handy really as it's a 2 minute walk from my front door.

Seems that the more we invest in these cars the more precious we get about them to the point of stress!

 

[Flashy]

There's a 3 piece oem clutch kit on eBay for £115 or best offer at the moment