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DC sports manifold

VtecRob

VtecRob

Messages
225
Been thinking about spending some of my hard earned on a manifold. Now the toda and spoon are both out of my budget. So i have been thinking about a DC. I was just wondering if any one who has one can tell me if this would replace the magnex de-cat i already have and would i also be able to fit my cat to the DC when it comes time for MOT?

thanks in advance for any help.
 
Hi there. I have one.

It is one piece from the header to the b-pipe (replaces both the OE header and cat section). Yes, it will replace your Magnex decat

As the DC is one piece, you cannot use it with a cat. MOT time its remove DCRH replace with OE header and cat, then put DCRH back on after MOT.

The Jackson Racing header can be fitted with a high flow cat, but the cat itself is very expensive.
 
i thought that might be the case. oh well so much for simply swapping the cat at MOT time. one more question does the DC require the use of a jdm anti roll bar?
 
VtecRob said:
i thought that might be the case. oh well so much for simply swapping the cat at MOT time. one more question does the DC require the use of a jdm anti roll bar?
Click to expand...

Tricky one that - some people say it does, some say it doesn't.

I bought the front JDM ARB off the bloke who was also selling the DCRH. It should give extra clearance on the header.
 
I have the DCRH and standard ARB fitted it myself and there is no clearance issues with it at all but i do think there can be variances with the mani that can cause it to get close or knock but you wont know till it is fitted if there is a problem, my experience is that it just goes straight in with no issues whatsoever but others aren't so lucky
 
N3YL B said:
I have the DCRH and standard ARB fitted it myself and there is no clearance issues with it at all but i do think there can be variances with the mani that can cause it to get close or knock but you wont know till it is fitted if there is a problem, my experience is that it just goes straight in with no issues whatsoever but others aren't so lucky
Click to expand...

Indeed, as Neil says - some are OK, and some are not
 
I know, very old thread...

I had this question, I am about to order a dcrh, I find some really cheap ones in the USA, yes I know VAT and import is to be paid but still beats the competition around here.

However, there seems to be a difference between Acura RSX and RSX type-S, I thought the Type S would be the k20a2 engine and resembles the euro DC5, right? Thus making it fit the Euro civic type R... ?

Part numbers:
AHR6514 rsx type-s
HHR6515 rsx base

However, some websites claim it fits both models, and if I am not mistaken, I thought it was basically the same car, except for the k20a3 found in the base rsx.

Could there be a difference between the two headers, some shops sell AHR6514 for both cars, other shops sell different headers.
Might there be a link between the rattling sound some suffer, while others don't.
Can anyone confirm the one and only CORRECT part number for the dcrh, anyone still have his warranty papers/installing instruction to verify? I don't trust anymore of those websites, I'd like to know the non-rattling model before ordering.

Second, how come, all the K-series SWAP headers from DCsports are sequenced 1-4 & 2-3 while the header for the rsx type-s is 1-2 & 3-4
If I remember correctly ignition sequence is 1-3-2-4 so a 1-4 & 2-3 layout would be more logic, like the toda, invidia, and ALL the others, why would dc sports go other way.
Anyone a reasonable explanation?
If not, I go with the fact there are really attractive dyno results on the dcrh anyway, whatever the sequence :)

last:
I always thought you'd need a JDM ARB??? Some tell yes, others don't.
I got the energy suspension mounts, still waiting for them to mount, I guess those are required so I'll place them when placing the header.

Just waiting for the Euro to become stronger again, the Ireland crisis crashed the Euro to the lowest depths again... I lose roughly 20% on exchange rates if I order now from the states... INSANE!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Earthslug said:
I know, very old thread...

I had this question, I am about to order a dcrh, I find some really cheap ones in the USA, yes I know VAT and import is to be paid but still beats the competition around here.

However, there seems to be a difference between Acura RSX and RSX type-S, I thought the Type S would be the k20a2 engine and resembles the euro DC5, right? Thus making it fit the Euro civic type R... ?

Part numbers:
AHR6514 rsx type-s
HHR6515 rsx base

However, some websites claim it fits both models, and if I am not mistaken, I thought it was basically the same car, except for the k20a3 found in the base rsx.

Could there be a difference between the two headers, some shops sell AHR6514 for both cars, other shops sell different headers.
Might there be a link between the rattling sound some suffer, while others don't.
Can anyone confirm the one and only CORRECT part number for the dcrh, anyone still have his warranty papers/installing instruction to verify? I don't trust anymore of those websites, I'd like to know the non-rattling model before ordering.

Second, how come, all the K-series SWAP headers from DCsports are sequenced 1-4 & 2-3 while the header for the rsx type-s is 1-2 & 3-4
If I remember correctly ignition sequence is 1-3-2-4 so a 1-4 & 2-3 layout would be more logic, like the toda, invidia, and ALL the others, why would dc sports go other way.
Anyone a reasonable explanation?
If not, I go with the fact there are really attractive dyno results on the dcrh anyway, whatever the sequence :)
Click to expand...

What Euro DC5? :lol:
If you're unsure, my advice would be to buy from somewhere you can be sure of ;)
 
sunday_driver said:
What Euro DC5? :lol:
If you're unsure, my advice would be to buy from somewhere you can be sure of ;)
Click to expand...

Basically, I have to know if it's the rsx type s that matches the ep3 or is it the base rsx...
How about ask around, compare some numbers and save around 80£ ?
 
Earthslug said:
Basically, I have to know if it's the rsx type s that matches the ep3 or is it the base rsx...
How about ask around, compare some numbers and save around 80£ ?
Click to expand...

Ever heard the saying "Buy cheap. buy twice"?

DCRH is cheap enough here:
http://funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.php?make=HONDA&model=INTEGRA&year=2001%2B+DC5+INTEGRA+TYPE+R&level1=EXHAUSTS+%26+EXHAUST+MANIFOLDS&level2=MANIFOLDS&level3=POLISHED+STAINLESS+STEEL&id_product=1315

And yes, they route the gases differently to the Toda, not sure why.
As for the JDM ARB, seems trial and error on the fit.
HTH
 
sunday_driver said:
Ever heard the saying "Buy cheap. buy twice"?

DCRH is cheap enough here:
http://funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.php?make=HONDA&model=INTEGRA&year=2001%2B+DC5+INTEGRA+TYPE+R&level1=EXHAUSTS+%26+EXHAUST+MANIFOLDS&level2=MANIFOLDS&level3=POLISHED+STAINLESS+STEEL&id_product=1315

And yes, they route the gases differently to the Toda, not sure why.
As for the JDM ARB, seems trial and error on the fit.
HTH
Click to expand...

Thanks!
Yes, I sent a mail a day ago to funkypower, asking for a shipping quote to belgium, but the havent replied yet. Waiting for their reply then I can compare if it's worth ordering in the USA or UK...
 
sunday_driver said:
DCRH is cheap enough here:
http://funkypower.co.uk/catalogue.p...vel3=POLISHED+STAINLESS+STEEL&id_product=1315
Click to expand...

347£ including ALL shipping, VAT, import duties... when ordered from the USA
370£ EXcluding shipping when ordering from funkypower.
If shipping is not too bad, I might order in UK, however I estimate 35£ so it's starting to be a big difference..

Also, the Euro is recovering, saves 10£ if restored and there is a chanse the guy on the other side of the water is willing to lower the invoice value, saves another easy 20£ on import duties. 310£ wouldn't be much, shipped to my door.
 
Sweet!

Are you a walking encyclopedia James? :)

Yes found out the code for a DC5, thus same for ep3 and yes, was the one of the RSX type-s.

Any cheap, yet quality, good place for an O2 sim? Can't have it mapped the first... 6 à 10 months so I might want to use an O2 sim I think?
 
Don't fit it if you don't plan to map it for another 6-10 months.

O2 sim is a waste of cash.
 
James@Touge said:
Don't fit it if you don't plan to map it for another 6-10 months.

O2 sim is a waste of cash.
Click to expand...

Don't install because of the waste of O2 sim? Or some other reason?

Also:
I have a OBDII scantool allowing me to read and erase CEL errors, would the cel light stay away after erasing, or would it come back on everytime?

As for power increase without mapping, I know... without kpro blablabla... I read so much about some increase, not full potential for sure, even without mapping, so still might worth installing?


Unlikely there would be NO increase at all...

Also, the sound would be more than welcome, I understand a more sporty tone would appear...

Anyone got FACTS, discouraging installing it before mapping?

If yes, I'll just wait some more time for ordering and installing
 
Fitting a header will lean your OEM map out. Not usually dangerously lean, but leaner nonetheless. Combined with a catback system, and potentially an RBC, IMO, you shouldn't fit these parts till you're going to get the car mapped.

However, it's your car. Can lead a horse to water, but can't make it drink.
 
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