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EP3 EML Codes P0141 & P1298

S

samgreeny

Messages
8
Hi,

I have searched on the forum but can't find my exact answer as others seem to have other codes with it as well.

I have an issue with my car its an ep3 type r 04 plate. I currently have the codes;

P0141 - O2 sensor heater circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P1298 - Electric Load Detector Circuit High Voltage

Would these two codes go together? Meaning that if i have the O2 sensor will i have the ELD one as well or would this be a completely different issue?

I don't currently have a cat on my car (Last owner did a bodge job with the exhaust which i didn't realise until after) so i know the P0141 is the lambda sensor, which i presume wont go off until a cat is put back on? I don't really want to be buying a simulator as i will be changing the exhaust in the next few months.
 
Thank you.
I presume this wouldn't be under warrantee any more being 13 years old?

Do you know of anywhere you can get the ELD from except Honda as i presume they will be more expensive?

Great thank you, that answers my main question!
 
I know I'm a little late to this party, but for future reference here's a whole list - https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/heres-list-obd2-codes-if-anyone-cares-466877/

The ELD is a really easy change, unhook the battery, two screws in the fuse box under the bonnet and you're done. I had to do that on my last EP3. It's a bit of an annoyance code because it means that your alternator may/may-not be used (so either the battery will be constantly used or the alternator) dependent on which state the ELD failed in.
 
mike.h said:
I know I'm a little late to this party, but for future reference here's a whole list - https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/heres-list-obd2-codes-if-anyone-cares-466877/

The ELD is a really easy change, unhook the battery, two screws in the fuse box under the bonnet and you're done. I had to do that on my last EP3. It's a bit of an annoyance code because it means that your alternator may/may-not be used (so either the battery will be constantly used or the alternator) dependent on which state the ELD failed in.
Click to expand...


Thank you.

Does anyone know if there is a was to trick the o2 sensors into thinking it's running correctly without a simulator? I read somewhere about connecting the second one but having tin foil covering it and just cable tying it in the engine bay but it didn't seem to work with mine.

Is there any other way such as changing the first o2 sensor into the post cat hole?
I just want to clear the code for the moment in case it comes up with another code and I don't know because of it already being on.
 
samgreeny said:
Does anyone know if there is a was to trick the o2 sensors into thinking it's running correctly without a simulator? I read somewhere about connecting the second one but having tin foil covering it and just cable tying it in the engine bay but it didn't seem to work with mine.

Is there any other way such as changing the first o2 sensor into the post cat hole?
I just want to clear the code for the moment in case it comes up with another code and I don't know because of it already being on.
Click to expand...

In order of preference:
  1. Are you planning on replacing the cat? It's not big money (but it is money nonetheless), you could even get a stainless sports cat for around £200 - https://www.japspeed.co.uk/honda-civic-type-r-sports-cat-downpipe.html
  2. The easiest way to fix the light is a lambda simulator, to buy they cost £60+. If your electronics skills are up to scratch you could make one on the cheap (but then you'd need to butcher your existing O2 sensor wires to fit it in place) - http://mkiv.com/techarticles/oxygen_sensor_simulator/index.html - for example.
  3. Another option is to leave the lamp lit (and suffer the ECU degrading performance because it can't tell your emissions) and manage fault codes with something like the Scantool OBDLink LX (or a cheap clone) and the torque app (assuming you have an android phone). I wouldn't recommend this.
 
mike.h said:
In order of preference:
  1. Are you planning on replacing the cat? It's not big money (but it is money nonetheless), you could even get a stainless sports cat for around £200 - https://www.japspeed.co.uk/honda-civic-type-r-sports-cat-downpipe.html
  2. The easiest way to fix the light is a lambda simulator, to buy they cost £60+. If your electronics skills are up to scratch you could make one on the cheap (but then you'd need to butcher your existing O2 sensor wires to fit it in place) - http://mkiv.com/techarticles/oxygen_sensor_simulator/index.html - for example.
  3. Another option is to leave the lamp lit (and suffer the ECU degrading performance because it can't tell your emissions) and manage fault codes with something like the Scantool OBDLink LX (or a cheap clone) and the torque app (assuming you have an android phone). I wouldn't recommend this.
Click to expand...

I'm planning on getting a new exhaust system at some point (Currently finishing University so it will be once i start my job as money is currently tight). My issue i have is i will have to get a whole new system from the manifold as the previous owner cut the connecting points of the exhaust off and welded it all together, so to change anything it has to be the whole system.
I did think about getting a simulator but didn't see the point if i was going the exhaust system in a couple of months.
I've got a obd2 reader i guess i will just have to plug it in every time i start the car to check it until its sorted.
 
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