EP3 low speed knocking, pulling left

[jonno56]

I've been searching around on this for a while now, and can't seem to find anyone with a pull and a knocking...

Knocking
At low speeds, such as parking up, I get a couple of knocks from the left hand side, that I can feel it through the wheel and sounds as though it's coming from the left. Its when under heavy load, like going towards full lock right comign out of a parking spot.


Pulling
The car always pulls to the left, immediatley veers if I let go of the wheel. It also doesn't self-centre after turning left (I could take a smooth left corner with no hands on the wheel as it sticks in that position.

I do have a sticky front left caliper, which is being sorted tomorrow - but wouldn't expect this degree of pull from that.

Any ideas? Not sure where to start looking, read so many threads ranging from engine mount issues, top mounts, ball joints, track rod ends and the dreaded steering rack (I'm paranoid about the latter, so snapped up a rack from eBay for £21 that can be refurbed to swap out when needed)

Cheers in advance!

 

[Loxy]

Drop links and top mounts are the common things.

Might sound silly but have you had the tracking and alignment checked? Tyre pressures right? Same brand and model of tyre on both sides and if they are directional fitted the correct way round?

 

[jonno56]

Had the tracking done not long ago - will have that checked while I get my brake sorted tomorrow. Will check tyre pressures later, good shout!
Tyres are the same brand, both fitted at the same time the right way.

A week or so ago, my mechanic said there was ever so slight play in the right hand droplink - but I wouldn't expect that to cause a knock on the left... or make it pull left?

Are top mounts sold as single components - i.e. the rubber part + bearing?

 

[Loxy]

The drop links can certainly cause knocking. It doesn't take much for them to start.

It could be track rod ends, it's pretty easy to test for play in them. Just turn the steering wheel and give it a tug in and out, front and back. There shouldn't be any movement there.

The top mounts parts can be found here: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S5S01&block_02=B__2800&block_03=9726

It would also be worth checking that the three nuts under the bonnet that hold the top of the strut on are torqued up.

 

[jonno56]

The drop links can certainly cause knocking. It doesn't take much for them to start.

It could be track rod ends, it's pretty easy to test for play in them. Just turn the steering wheel and give it a tug in and out, front and back. There shouldn't be any movement there.

The top mounts parts can be found here: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17S5S01&block_02=B__2800&block_03=9726

It would also be worth checking that the three nuts under the bonnet that hold the top of the strut on are torqued up.

Would have thought a droplink would be noisy on the side that was worn rather than opposite?
Will get all these checked out, i get a vibration noise when I go over cobbled speed bumps, always had it since i bought it so thought it was normal... Could this be linked?

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[R35735]

Is it lowered? My car knocks since being lowered, the resident experts at JAE diagnosed it as something to do with part of the steering being at a new angle or something. Epic description.

 

[jonno56]

Is it lowered? My car knocks since being lowered, the resident experts at JAE diagnosed it as something to do with part of the steering being at a new angle or something. Epic description.

Was lowered back in December and only just started to knock. Stuff wears quicker due to different angles, you can fit steering arm relocation brackets to make the angle closer to OEM (tegiwa part), not really sure where they fit tbh!

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[DMN]

I've noticed my car pulling left. The tyre at that corner also refused to hold the correct pressure, it would always be 5-6psi below where it should be. So last night I swapped it for the rear tyre and this morning it's stopped pulling.

 

[Teutonic]

I had a knock from the right when steering at low speeds or stationary. Could feel it through the wheel.

spent some time shaking wheels and parts but read a good tip and found the problem.

have someone when stationary turn the wheel from lock to lock. Hold the central nut on each top mount. If either is at fault, you should feel it jump as it moves through the turn of the wheel.

for me it was my drivers side but had both changed as a precautionary measure.

note ***, I had no steering issues or pulling either way, just a single solid knock that occurred at the same place during the turn of the wheel. Major give away was that with front end jacked up, it was impossible to make it happen, and only occurred when load shifted on the wheels.

if you do decide its the mounts, I would do as others say and switch wheels front to back to see if that identifies the tyre at fault.

my work was carried out today and handling is much better and can feel the change in every aspect from accelerating to braking.

as a last resort, look at steering rack problems as knocks and pulling go hand in hand wwith rack faults, although from what I have read , Hondas suffered with a pull to the right. The lack of self righting steering would also point to this (only from what I've read,not self experience)

First post and hopefully a helpful one. Have spent 10 days with my knock and driving home from the garage put a big smile back on my face. Hope you get it sorted pal.

 

[jonno56]

I had a knock from the right when steering at low speeds or stationary. Could feel it through the wheel.

spent some time shaking wheels and parts but read a good tip and found the problem.

have someone when stationary turn the wheel from lock to lock. Hold the central nut on each top mount. If either is at fault, you should feel it jump as it moves through the turn of the wheel.

for me it was my drivers side but had both changed as a precautionary measure.

note ***, I had no steering issues or pulling either way, just a single solid knock that occurred at the same place during the turn of the wheel. Major give away was that with front end jacked up, it was impossible to make it happen, and only occurred when load shifted on the wheels.

if you do decide its the mounts, I would do as others say and switch wheels front to back to see if that identifies the tyre at fault.

my work was carried out today and handling is much better and can feel the change in every aspect from accelerating to braking.

as a last resort, look at steering rack problems as knocks and pulling go hand in hand wwith rack faults, although from what I have read , Hondas suffered with a pull to the right. The lack of self righting steering would also point to this (only from what I've read,not self experience)

First post and hopefully a helpful one. Have spent 10 days with my knock and driving home from the garage put a big smile back on my face. Hope you get it sorted pal.

Great first post! Welcome to the club!

I'll do this test with my mate tomorrow, very good fault finding there!

I'm not sure if having it lowered would be the cause for it not self centering properly, kinds does it both ways at 11 and 1 oclock.

As long as it isnt the rack i'll be much happier. Anyone know of a good workshop manual or guide for rebuilding a rack step by step?

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[Teutonic]

Let us know how you get on pal.

i went to 5 garages before deciding on what to go for. Each garage told me a different thing, and only two were willing to admit that there were several possibilities and wouldn't want to guarantee they'd change the right part.

and the worst of them jacked the front, shook the wheel and told me it was 100% the steering rack and said they wouldn't do the work....this was without opening the bonnet, touching the rack or even turning the damn wheel. Shocking really.

if the central nuts on the top of the mount do give a clunk as the wheel is turned, you can try tightening them. My drivers side went through two full revolutions and the knock subsided for a few days but a pot hole made it return with more presence.


Keep us posted

 

[jonno56]

Let us know how you get on pal.

i went to 5 garages before deciding on what to go for. Each garage told me a different thing, and only two were willing to admit that there were several possibilities and wouldn't want to guarantee they'd change the right part.

and the worst of them jacked the front, shook the wheel and told me it was 100% the steering rack and said they wouldn't do the work....this was without opening the bonnet, touching the rack or even turning the damn wheel. Shocking really.

if the central nuts on the top of the mount do give a clunk as the wheel is turned, you can try tightening them. My drivers side went through two full revolutions and the knock subsided for a few days but a pot hole made it return with more presence.


Keep us posted

Update: So, I had my brake re-built last night (as it was binding) and that has helped a lot! Quite amazed at the change it made really, was binding pretty bad to be fair.

Also took a look at anything that could cause pulling - and have slight play in both track rod ends, and the right hand drop link has slight play.

I'm going to replace both droplinks, and came across these hardrace uprated droplinks http://www.eightspeed.co.uk/acatalog/EP3_Strut_Bars_and_Bracing.html#a5456

They are pretty well priced - a few quid less than OE Honda ones. Are these worth fitting over OE? I can get trade discount at euro car parts for the Lemforder ones, so they would work out much cheaper.

On to track rod ends - not sure which to buy, as euro only stock "OCAP Group" branded ones, and never dealt with this brand before. What are others fitting? I'm not after inverted ends or anything, just something decent quality (not sure how much genuine Honda's are?).
EDIT: No chance genuine's are being fitted! 53541-S5A-003 END COMP., TIE ROD RRP £52.94 each

I'll have it all re-tracked up with FRSU settings when these are fitted. Top mounts were fine and nice and tight

 

[Teutonic]

Good Job mate on narrowing it down. Can't help on the parts I'm afraid.