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EP3 not driving straight after hitting kerb

T

tonymontana

Messages
9
Hi All,

Hope all are good, I'm having a very baffling week. I hit the car alloy(drivers side) quite bad last week against the kerb which caused it to crack.

Since then i have Replaced/completed the:

1. Subframe (which was bent)
2. Wishbone
3. Hub
4. Suspension leg
5. Alloy wheel
6. 4 Wheel alignment
7. air pressure all tyres.

After all the above:

Now the steering wheel is sitting straight but after 600yards odd on a straight road it starts to bear towards the right (slowly) and on a rough road it also goes towards the right and after general driving when i brake it goes right.
It just loves sitting right, but the steering wheel is quite sturdy and gets back into position pretty quickly. but when it goes right its loose and easy to do so.

Also a point to mention is that the wheel that was hit, sits a few mill to the left for some reason:

ALKTH


Im not sure what to do here really stuck, what do people think it could be?

1. Could it be the steering rack missing 1/2 teeth

2. Wishbone mounting points (how would i know)

3. Suspension leg point mounts on the shell? (how would i know)

4. Steering rack end

Do i need a geometry check printout even after tracking?

The only things thats left on that side is the rack?

please all let me know what should be the next steps to diagnose whats wrong

Thanks in advance.

Tony
 
I'd check the steering arm from the steering rack isn't bent. I'd then check wheel alignment again and get a print out to confirm it's all in specification.


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I'll get it on a ramp and check the steering arm isn't bent then i am going to Aline in dudley for the geometry print-out on Saturday.
 
That's a lot. I don't know what the top limit of the spec is, but I wouldn't be happy with anything over 3mm.
 
Easy on the text talk please scarface, we use English on this site.

Would you rather I said just turn left a little bit? :lol:

It's hard to know, could be any number of things. Has the whole engine twisted in the bay? I can't see how a driveshaft can be that far out and still run without issue. I wouldn't know where to begin TBH.
 
There's a fair amount of movement for the subframe as the bolt hole diameter in the subframe are larger than the bolts. I would guess that the subframe isn't perfectly square with the chassis. This would give you that big set back which in turn would give you odd caster angles.
Easiest way to align the subframe would be to get some rigid collars from the likes of Tegiwa and set the geometry again. If after having the collars fitted there's still a large setback then something else is still bent or not aligned.


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Lewisgame said:
There's a fair amount of movement for the subframe as the bolt hole diameter in the subframe are larger than the bolts. I would guess that the subframe isn't perfectly square with the chassis. This would give you that big set back which in turn would give you odd caster angles.
Easiest way to align the subframe would be to get some rigid collars from the likes of Tegiwa and set the geometry again. If after having the collars fitted there's still a large setback then something else is still bent or not aligned.


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Click to expand...

Cant i try the drive shaft first?
 
Lewisgame said:
There's a fair amount of movement for the subframe as the bolt hole diameter in the subframe are larger than the bolts. I would guess that the subframe isn't perfectly square with the chassis. This would give you that big set back which in turn would give you odd caster angles.
Easiest way to align the subframe would be to get some rigid collars from the likes of Tegiwa and set the geometry again. If after having the collars fitted there's still a large setback then something else is still bent or not aligned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

OK - i am going to go down the rigid collar route i have ordered them.

Will let you know once fitted and re-geometrised. fingers crossed.
 
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