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EP3 OBD Temperatures/Overheating?

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3
Hello,

I'm running into an issue I'm hoping someone can help me with. My ECT according to the OBD scanner is saying my idle is around 103c before the fans kick on. When I bled the system, the fans kicked on at 95C which they were suppose to as per the switch specs. However this changed to 103C before the fans kicked on after driving around. Is this simply because the ECT sensor is in the engine and the fan switch is in the radiator, hence the temperature differences? Honestly this doesn't really bother me, because I know what the rad temp is from hearing the fans turn on. But I thought I should mention it.

What is bothering me is when I go for a spirited drive, close to redline for extended periods of time ect., uphill, my temps creep up slightly on the gauge, it goes up to just under 3/4's, pointing to the bottom of the ABS light. It doesn't over heat, but stays there until flat ground or I drive normally where it returns to normal position.

I have searched this specific topic but nothing quite like mine. I am wondering if I should be concerned.

I have done:
New radiator cap
New radiator
New fan switch
New coolant
Water wetter
Jacked car and burped it multiple times.
Bottom hose is hot
Heater is hot
New fans
I am not losing coolant
compression tested


Thank you for the help.
 
Temp wise? Feels hot, as in burns if I keep my hand on it. It's hard from the pressure. I have not replaced the thermostat just yet. It warms up fine, could that still be the issue?
 
Not likely if the top hose is hot, no. I'm surprised your gauge gets up as high as it does though. Mine's basically solidly on the lower half, in general it's sat about 2/5ths of the way up.
 
Only thing I haven't seen mentioned is the water pump, possibly goosed?

What's a 'water wetter' out of curiosity without googling it?
 
I don't think it's the water pump, I am 90% sure everything was fine prior to radiator replacement. I replaced the radiator due to the original being brown and had a repair done to it I didn't trust. I don't know if the new radiator is just bad or I've upset something... It's an "OE Replacement" but not a genuine honda one.


Water wetter is an additive that improves heat transfer, something to do with the gasses blah blah haha
 
If everything was fine before the replacement of the radiator then it’s something to do with the radiator.
To me it sounds like there’s a restriction, more than likely inside your ‘OE’ radiator. Sometimes parts like radiators put bungs over the inlet/outlet to prevent anything going into them and sometimes they get pushed in at some point. Or there wasn’t any in the first place and some foreign objects are now inside.... Or that radiator doesn’t have the cooling capabilities of a genuine radiator.
Harder driving produces more heat, not enough coolant flow causes overheating.


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