Ep3 pulling away bogs down and cuts out
- Thread starter Alex of Smeg
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little update: I think i've noticed a bit of a "feature" of what's happening. When I start the car cold, it will try and idle at 1k rpm initially, then a few seconds later (if it hasn't stalled) it suddenly rises to 2k rpm. If I reach this stage then it runs perfect and won't stall. Eventually when it warms up the idle drops back down to 1k rpm. However,during those few seconds it does seem to struggle to maintain an idle, and if I give it any throttle during those seconds it really struggles and often bogs down and cuts out.
Does this help anyone come up with any more ideas?
Does this help anyone come up with any more ideas?
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I think its injector related personally. Am i right in thinking at lower RPM the pressure is less so the injectors may not be pushing out the fuel needed and the car cuts out. At higher RPM the pressure is more and injectors work as they should? Whatever it is i think its fuel related.
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That is a bit odd, should go straight to around 2krpm from a cold start. Might be worth having the injectors flow tested. Still do the other servicing too as it'll all help as it's not been used much.
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How do I go about getting injectors flow tested? I've ordered a new fuel filter, vtec solenoid gasket, oil, filter etc. And will flush a load of redex through the fuel system. Should keep me busy on Saturday. Fingers crossed it gets rid of this gremlin
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Before diving in with 2 feet first. Check the obvious and most common faults.
Idle air control valve. If this is stuck either open or shut, it will give you running issues. Located on the bottom of the throttle body.
Cold air assist valve. Located on the right of the inlet manifold. These can stick open causing running issues or the pipe from this to the intake manifold can break.
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Idle air control valve. If this is stuck either open or shut, it will give you running issues. Located on the bottom of the throttle body.
Cold air assist valve. Located on the right of the inlet manifold. These can stick open causing running issues or the pipe from this to the intake manifold can break.
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What does the cold air assist valve look like? and is it attached to the throttle body? I have serviced the car (well, changed the oil, and air filter). Not checked plugs yet. and I have a new fuel filter I haven't got round the fitting yet! Waiting for some free time and warmer weather. Today I took the throttle body and ICV apart and cleaned them up. All moving parts seem to be nice and free.
I've made a short video demonstrating how it behaves when it starts. I previously thought it was a cold start issue but it appears that it does sometimes do it when the engine is warm too
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_x5BJwkJH60&feature=youtu.be
Oh and whilst you're watching, listen out for the strange vibrating/grinding noise as it starts. I was thinking maybe this is the starter not disengaging properly. It only does it about 1 in 2 starts.
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This is where the cold air assist valve is
To renew you have to remove the rocker cover.
Alternatively you can delete it using this http://www.tegiwaimports.com/k-tuned-idle-air-assist-delete-kit-honda-k20a-01-06.html
To renew you have to remove the rocker cover.
Alternatively you can delete it using this http://www.tegiwaimports.com/k-tuned-idle-air-assist-delete-kit-honda-k20a-01-06.html
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So the problem has escalated. I'm waiting for recovery truck because now it just cuts out each time, at that point a few seconds after starting. No idea what it is. Looks like it'll be stuck in my garage for a while.