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EP3 Rear Brake Issue

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1,669
Hey guys I'm having trouble with the driver's side rear brake on my EP3.

The story goes: Since I bought the car about 3 years ago I changed discs and pads front and rear, drivers side rear pads were wearing quickly turned out they were binding so cleaned up the caliper but issue persisted. I then purchased A new refurbed caliper from motaquip and fitted with new pads.

Since doing this there was no heat coming off the brakes like there was when they were binding but the drivers rear pads continued to wear extremely fast. They were completely worn compared to the other side.

So about 10 days ago I had fitted RPB Discs with Redstuff pads (Planned to do fronts too and fluid change but still waiting for the front discs from Tegiwa) but the rears needed doing urgentley so I got them done, however, it seems now the pad on that same drivers side rear is wearing unevenly.

Took it back to the garage earlier and he stripped it down and built it up again in front of me, piston wound back freely, sliders were fine all bolts etc was fine pads were in fine, the lips on the pad were correctly positioned in the piston but issue persists.

Took these pics, not the best as it was dark lol, but you should get the gist;

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Any help is greatly appreciated guys as it always seems to be the drivers side rear brakes that are giving me issues. Again sorry for the pics.
Cheers.
 
I imagine the uneven wear across the disc will only be noticeable until the pads bed in fully. Something could be slightly bent or the caliper not aligned perfectly, it's not a big deal.

The excessive wear could be a number of things: Piston and seals need replaced, seized or poorly adjusted handbrake cable, bad brake line, dirt in the system or proportioning valves faulty.

If it's not causing problems then I would probably leave it. To replace/refurbish all those parts above is expensive and time consuming, I just did all of it and I hope to never do it again!
 
Cheers for the input guys, the caliper was a new one put on around a year ago so I wouldn't have thought it would be my caliper. Or would the piston not be pushing out flush?

Is there anyway of testing for poorly adjusted handbrake, or faulty proportioning valves?
All the brake lines looked fine. It's just I've always had issues with this side and it's annoying me lol.

It's not causing major issues the brakes engage fine, no noise etc it's just the cost of replacing pads/discs due to extreme wear. I like my car to be perfect see lol.
 
@ jimbothemagnificent Just out of curiosity what did you replace/refurb and how much did it cost? You can PM me if you don't want to disclose that here.
 
I'd start by jacking up the rear and trying to spin the wheels with the handbrake on and off. Probably worth trying it with the footbrake as well.

I've burnt myself more than once trying to see which rotors are hottest after a drive, but infrared thermometers can be had for £12 on ebay, they're better than fingers. They're also totally badass.

If it is dragging then I'd suggest slackening the handbrake adjustment inside the car and trying again. If it still drags then take the caliper off and see if the piston is moving freely, basic piston rewind tools are cheap.
 
No problem mate. I got caliper rebuild kits from brakeparts on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CIV...875?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3cea42eb23

They are great, everything you need. Though I would advise against trying to replace the seal where the handbrake mechanism enters the caliper, complete nightmare!

I also put on new HEL lines, new handbrake cables, ATE type 200 fluid, new oem pads on the rear and a small tin of hammerite. All in it was about £250.

I really went to town on my brakes, it took me a week because they were in a REALLY bad way, but you can do this job as fast or obsessively as you want. You could get them all done in a day easy if you're just replacing parts. Pics and brake woes starting at post #507 and continuing to #545 of my build thread.
 
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Cool cheers mate!

I'm off work next week so I'll try that first (As it's free lol).

I've got new fluid to put in just waiting on my front discs to arrive from tegiwa. I was going to do it all together but couldn't wait as the rears needing doing bad. I may get lines aswell now just to rule that out plus it's a decent little mod from what I've heard.
 
Yep, lines are worth doing, brake stopper is a good pocket money mod too. I think the set up I have now is about as good as you can get without spending £1k+.
 
Haven't been on in a while but thought I'd post what the issue was in case anyone else get's the same issue.

The weird wear was fixed by adjusting the handbrake, it was pretty easy to do I did it myself and saved me spending £££ trying to find the problem, so if you get this type of wear check and adjust your handbrake!

I've now fitted RPB discs front and rear with redstuff pads and RPB lines with RBF600 fluid and it's made a huge improvement over standard pedal now feels a lot firmer and no sign of any fade now.

Thanks to all who posted with their suggestions.
 
Hi I have same problem but adjusted handbrake via centre console and didn't do anything really.The rear drivers side doesn't move as freely as the other side when jacked up so seems uneven the brake adjustment.Also when I checked underneath where the cable connectects to the caliper,the caliper arm doesn't move as well as other side.Any feedback would be great.
 
Hey, sorry for the late reply, my handbrake was tighter on the driver's side than the passenger's. Method I used was:

1. Slacken wheel nuts, chock front wheels, release handbrake fully. Loosen the handbrake nut (via centre console).
2. Turn engine on press brake pedal 7 times to set the self adjusting brake.
3. Jack the rear end up, and take wheels off, use axle stands to support. (Make sure both rear wheels turn freely you should feel the difference).
4. Make sure the handbrake brake arm on the caliper is contacting the brake caliper pin. (This will only happen if the adjusting nut is loosened).
5. Pull handbrake up 1 click, tighten adjustment nut until the handbrake slightly drags when the rear wheels are turned.
6. Release handbrake fully and check the handbrake doesn't drag when the rear wheels are turned. Re adjust if necessary.
7. Make sure the handbrakes are fully applied when the handbrake is pulled up fully. (The clicks should be between 6-8 clicks from off to fully applied).
8. Re install centre console.

It is a niggly job, you have to keep adjusting and checking. Hope this helps and you get it sorted. :)
 
Cheers,Will get on this hopefully again tomorrow.Pretty much did what you said apart from turning the engine on and pressing the brake pedal 7 times and also taking the wheels off,although everytime I adjusted the handbrake nut I checked to see how free the wheel spun.
 
Don't know why I put take the wheels off lol I didn't do that, It must of been in my head for when I changed the brakes :lol:.

Try it again and hopefully you'll get it sorted, if not try and eliminate by doing what some of the others have said.
 
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