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EP3 slow gear changes / notchy gearbox shifter

Anto Moto

Anto Moto

Messages
8
I've had my EP3 (2005 model with 85000 miles) for a week now and started noticing that it is hard to shift fast both in low and high revs.
The gears don't grind or pop out, but it's a "two step" gearshift every time I move up a gear.
The gears don't shift in one forward motion, instead I have to wait halfway through the gear throw for a split second before I can shift into the next gear.

I try not to force the gear lever too much btw.

Am I doing something wrong and need to get used to the car or is this a common thing on EP3's and I need to service the gearbox?
 
The k20 'box is as slick as they come so it certainly shouldn't be like that. Change your gearbox oil for a start, see how it feels. You may possibly require a new clutch.
 
How firm is the pedal, at which point does it "catch" as you release from the floor?

Is the issue more pronounced between particular gears, or when the engine is cold?

When you shift into a particular gear do you wait for revs to drop until they've vaguely close to the rev-range the new gear would be operating in, or are you expecting the synchro to deal with the issue in its entirety?
 
Hmm..I can't really say that the clutch feels as if it's on it's way out.
Usually I would have noticed if it was slipping, getting warm or if the pedal was picking up at the very top etc.

@mike.h to answer your questions:
- pedal feels firm (pedal travel is quite short compared to an e36 bmw)
- catches somewhere mid travel, modulation feels fine and clutch seams to grab well (wheelspin in 1st is easy with extra throttle)
- second gear is a bit tricky when cold (but this seams to be the norm), when warmed up all gears feel the same

Here is a video to better illustrate how I shift and what I meant with "two step" shifting.
[video=youtube;3a1G5w6v42A]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3a1G5w6v42A[/video]
 
'Short' pedal or low biting point is a sign of a knackered clutch. Pressure plate spring diaphragm faults causing the clutch not to disengage properly. It's a fairly common issue on the EP3.
A good clutch should have a pedal feel that's fairly light and the biting point being no lower than 1/3 - 1/2 of the pedal travel.
Continuous driving of this will eventually cause damage to the gearbox. So best to sort out sooner rather than later. Plus on it's current mileage you've had your money's worth out of the clutch.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the reply Lewis.

I'll start with a clutch cylinder bleed and some fresh gearbox oil.
If that won't do much, a new clutch will be put on order.
 
Second gear notching when cold can also mean the synchro on second is worn, which is kinda common if it's been thrashed (people rough/quick shifting from a standstill).

If the clutch feels firm it's also most likely a new clutch is needed, almost seems a shame to waste the gearbox oil (which you'd have to drain anyway when you replace the clutch).
 
Is the EP3 linkages the same as the DC5?

I would do a MTF3 change, bleed the cylinder, check linkages, replace if worn or stretched, if problem still there then new clutch kit.
 
I had the same issue as it wouldn't change gear easy in VTEC. Had to let the revs drop out of VTEC before I could change gear smoothly. Not good when you're trying to enjoy a spirited drive!

Replaced the clutch last week and was definitely clutch. Mechanic showed me the old and it was almost down to the rivets.

The gear change was a lot more crisp but still felt slightly notchy but sprayed some WD40 in the ball and socket and moving parts underneath the gearstick, worked it for 30mins and let it dry. Sprayed white grease and had transformed the gear change. Now the gear changes are silky and smooth.
 
As said in post 2 and 3, it's 95% likely to be the clutch. No amount of maintenance will help apart from changing the clutch.
 
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