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Fitting LSD

Going by the cost I think that is going to be an after christmas project, but i think that it is worth doing :twisted:

The best budget suspension mod I've fitted is the JDM rear anti roll bar. If you fancy a quick fix before xmas I would get one of those :)
 
The best budget suspension mod I've fitted is the JDM rear anti roll bar. If you fancy a quick fix before xmas I would get one of those :)

i didn't think that an anti roll bar did much, kinda like having a 'big' wing on the back - no use unless your at speed.
 
i didn't think that an anti roll bar did much, kinda like having a 'big' wing on the back - no use unless your at speed.
My fabia vRS didn't come with a rear ARB from the factory so i fitted an aftermarket one and its like driving a different car, even at legal speeds. :wink:
 
My fabia vRS didn't come with a rear ARB from the factory so i fitted an aftermarket one and its like driving a different car, even at legal speeds. :wink:

I'l have to get an eye on one then. I'm not much of a 140mph driver, but i love getting to 60 quick! and staying at that speed round bends is crucial to me than 140 in a straight, after all that is where time is lost. :twisted: :twisted:
 
I'l have to get an eye on one then. I'm not much of a 140mph driver, but i love getting to 60 quick! and staying at that speed round bends is crucial to me than 140 in a straight, after all that is where time is lost. :twisted: :twisted:

You wouldnt be disappointed with the JDM anti roll bar, a very well worth mod even for low speeds.
 
Speak to John at pro grip in bonnybridge mate if your after the fast road set up, he fitted my springs, rear camber arms and front bolts and set it up with the fast road set up all for £120. Money will spent it makes some difference to the handling
 
I'l have to get an eye on one then. I'm not much of a 140mph driver, but i love getting to 60 quick! and staying at that speed round bends is crucial to me than 140 in a straight, after all that is where time is lost.

Dude, the JDM anti roll bar makes a hell of a difference in corners! especially if used in addition to an LSD.

Stiffening the back of your car with a bigger anti roll bar (like the JDM, which is slightly thicker than the UKDM) will put more pressure on the front of your car whilst cornering, therefore enhancing the traction.

if you had an LSD as well then the wheel with traction would only be able to grip more.

so basically if you have money do both, and if you dont at least do the JDM anti roll bar. You can definitely install it yourself as well, if I remember correctly it's a 6 or 8 bolts jobs.
 
Here is the post about the guy fitting it himself.

theta said:
Name of the project was to install DIY-style a Quaife ATB LSD, Clutch Masters FX300 and ACT Prolite 8.8lbs flywheel without previous experience :lol:

Here we go...

First, I bought a new Quaife ATB:
001_quaife_arrived_1.sized.jpg

002_quaife_arrived_2.sized.jpg


Then I bought a cheap unused transmission from a local Honda racing dealer.. not necessary but anyways. I dismantled the tranny in preparation for Quaife installation:
004_assembling_1.sized.jpg


A machining shop removed the vss gear and final gear from the old differential, installed them on the Quaife and pressed new bearings:
003_quaife_and_final_gear.sized.jpg


Then I carefully reinstalled the Quaife+Final gear back in to the tranny:
006_assembling_3.sized.jpg


Don't forget this gear unless you decide you don't need the reverse gear anymore :D
005_assembling_2.sized.jpg


Added some liquid gasket and installed the case:
007_assembling_4.sized.jpg


Then I had to put the tranny away while waiting for the clutch to arrive:
008_assembling_5.sized.jpg


Finally, the Clutch Masters FX300 kevlar -clutch and pressure plate arrived:
009_cm_fx300.sized.jpg


I had bought the ACT Prolite flywheel earlier:
010_act_prolite.sized.jpg


Then it was time to eat the brave pills and attack the car with all the tools I've got :lol: I started by loosening the 36mm hub spindle nuts while the car was still on the ground:
011_loosening_spindle_nuts.sized.jpg


I set up the rest area and opened up the service manual from the laptop 8)
012_service_manual.sized.jpg


Then it was time to jack the car up. And this time I raised it as high as I possibly could with jacks and stands.
013_jacking_1.sized.jpg


I could almost sit under the car. This was the first time that I had no space problems while working under the car :lol:
014_jacking_2.sized.jpg


Removed the front wheels:
016_wheels_removed.sized.jpg


Took the battery and the AEM CAI out:
015_battery_removed.sized.jpg


Brakes off, not necessary but makes the job a tiny bit easier further down the road:
017_brakes_removed.sized.jpg


Ripped off the anti-roll bar from the endlinks and bushings and let it hang over the exhaust manifold.
018_arb_removed.sized.jpg


Removed the splash shield:
019_splash_shield_removed.sized.jpg


Disconnected all wiring from the tranny (VSS, reverse sensor, reverse gear lock solenoid):
020_connectors_removed_1.sized.jpg

021_connectors_removed_2.sized.jpg


Disconnected the shifter cables:
022_cables_removed.sized.jpg


Removed the clutch slave cylinder:
023_slave_cylinder_removed.sized.jpg


Supported the engine with a jack and block of wood. Also drained the tranny of fluid:
024_engine_supported.sized.jpg


Removed the two upper transmission bolts:
025_upper_tranny_bolts.sized.jpg


Removed the upper tranny mount:
026_tranny_mount_1.sized.jpg

027_tranny_mount_2.sized.jpg


Removed the shift cable brackets:
028_brackets_removed.sized.jpg


Removed the 36mm hub spindle nuts:
029_spindle_nuts_removed_1.sized.jpg

030_spindle_nuts_removed_2.sized.jpg


Disconnect the front lower control arms from the subframe:
031_separating_lca_1.sized.jpg

032_separating_lca_2.sized.jpg


Then I carefully pulled from the hub while banging the driveshaft out of the hub with a plastic hammer:
033_removing_driveshafts_1.sized.jpg


Then I used a prybar to remove the left driveshaft from the transmission (do not pull on the driveshaft!):
034_removing_driveshafts_2.sized.jpg


I then removed the right driveshaft together with the intermediate shaft:
035_removing_driveshafts_3.sized.jpg


Removed the four subframe bolts and dropped the subframe on my forehead :lol:
036_subframe_dropped.sized.jpg


Removed the rear engine mount & esmm's:
037_rear_engine_mount_removed.sized.jpg


Removed the front engine mount:
038_front_engine_mount_removed.sized.jpg


Then I removed a couple of more bolts from around the transmission and pulled the transmission away and out from the engine bay:
039_tranny_removed.sized.jpg


Installing the new clutch and flywheel was very easy, here's the old clutch and pressure plate:
040_clutch_removed.sized.jpg


Then I ripped out the stock flywheel with a 17mm 12-point socket. The bolts are fairly tight so I had to jam the engine from the crankshaft pulley nut with a socket and a big ass breaker bar since I didn't want to buy the Honda ring gear holder:
041_flywheel_removed.sized.jpg


Installed the new ACT flywheel, cleaned it with brake cleaner first:
042_act_prolite_installed.sized.jpg


Add one clutch and pressure plate using the alignment tool:
043_clutch_installed.sized.jpg


VSS-sensor, engine mount bracket and some other stuff was swapped from the old tranny on to the new one:
044_tranny_prepared.sized.jpg


I then used a nice electric truck to lift the transmission up and mount it to the engine. Too bad that I forgot one of the dowel pins on the first try and couldn't get the tranny installed.. this cost me few hours of hard manual labor :oops:
045_tranny_install.sized.jpg



After this it was just a matter of reinstalling all the removed stuff in reverse order, add some redline oil in the tranny, bleed and adjust the clutch, read some prayers and hit the road for a test drive :lol:

I guess if you work your ass of and don't face any problems you could do this project in about 8-10 hours on the first try. I guess it took something like double that for me on the first try since I worked alone and forgot the damn dowel pin :x

Hope you liked the pics, I sure as hell didn't enjoy "preparing the car" for the shots :lol:
 
Been playin with the idea of installin an lsd in ma new civic but have been speaking to people as im not the most mechanically minded although im fully aware of what lsd can do i have been told by some that the money it costs its not really worth the handling benefits and have been told by others that it actually does nothing as if it did they would have installed it in the type r to start with like they do in the jap models. either way some actual experienced opinions would be helpfull as have been checking out this
http://www.funkypower.co.uk/catalog...&level2=LIMITED+SLIP+DIFFERENTIALS+(LSD)&man=
This seem any good ? not too worried bout price and was lookin at the mugen as i already have a mugen exhaust system fitted and would be nice to keep everything uniform lol ;) any help would be much appreciated
 
Been playin with the idea of installin an lsd in ma new civic but have been speaking to people as im not the most mechanically minded although im fully aware of what lsd can do i have been told by some that the money it costs its not really worth the handling benefits and have been told by others that it actually does nothing as if it did they would have installed it in the type r to start with like they do in the jap models. either way some actual experienced opinions would be helpfull as have been checking out this
http://www.funkypower.co.uk/catalog...&level2=LIMITED+SLIP+DIFFERENTIALS+(LSD)&man=
This seem any good ? not too worried bout price and was lookin at the mugen as i already have a mugen exhaust system fitted and would be nice to keep everything uniform lol ;) any help would be much appreciated

Mugen LSD is niiice. I got a quaife coz I got a good price on it. the Mugen is a plate one so you get additional noise whilst turning (ie when the LSD works ). It's good stuff if you got the money get it. However the £1K that funky power charges seems a bit steep. I'd ask around if I were you.
 
hey bro thanks for the info. was not aware of any additional noise as u mentioned. is it a big put off or is it hardly noticeable? the quaife lsd you mentioned which site did you order from if u did order it online that is...
 
I had a Spoon Diff fitted about 1 month ago, all I can say is it transforms the car.

Yes it was noisy to begin with but nothing the radio didn't drown out, now its nicely run it I can hardly hear it at all.

Personally I'm glad I went for the Spoon over the Quaife, I have driven a CTR with a Quaife in and the difference in the two is worlds apart.

Any other questions let me know.
 
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Personally I'm glad I went for the Spoon over the Quaiffe, I have driven a CTR with a Quaiffe in and the difference in the two is worlds apart.

Any other questions let me know.

Can you explain the different please? Also I thought the Spoon diff needed maintenance?
 
Can you explain the different please? Also I thought the Spoon diff needed maintenance?

The Spoon gives you more confidence, it engages a lot quicker than the Quaife. Its hard to explain but is certainly better on the road and track.

As for maintenance, Tom at TGM thinks it can go for over 40k without any issues, by which time a clutch may be needed anyway. As he said, it isn't working all the time so driving 40k in road miles isn't necessarily how many miles the diff is doing.
 
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so ignoring money issues for a minute if you could choose between the quaife, spoon and a mugen (or any other for that matter) what would you choose?
 
so ignoring money issues for a minute if you could choose between the quaife, spoon and a mugen (or any other for that matter) what would you choose?

As stated I went for the Spoon. Speaking to a couple of Quaife owners they wish they had made the same decision also.

Money wise buying the Spoon and Quaife with fitting there isn't a lot of difference in price.
 
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you know anyone or heard of anyone with the mugen ?>

Afraid not.

Personally for the extra money I don't think there would be a noticeable difference between the Spoon and Mugen, but that is just a personal opinion.


EDIT: just read the spec of the Mugen diff and it is only 1 way (like the Quaife), rather than the Spoon which is 1.5. Their prices also seem a bit high, i'm pretty sure I only paid around £500 for the diff, although I will check this out when i'm back home on Tuesday.
 
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