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Fn2 - droning noise

nelf

nelf

Messages
22
Hi all,

The car is developing an intermittent annoying noise that appears when driving at a constant speed over 30 mph.

It's a droning noise, not metallic or scrape like, but I feel it's road noise or brakes.

It stops if I brake, and can be interrupted when steering.

Doesn't always happen. It's not drive related as I can dip the clutch, change gear and accelerate and the noise doesn't alter.

Any ideas welcome.

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
One or both of the rear calipers are binding is my bet. They easily get full of brake dust, particularly as the VSA interferes so much.

Go for a short 5 or 10 minute drive, using the brakes as little as possible, get out and carefully touch the rear discs. They should be just warm to the touch, if they are hot then they are binding. If one is hot and the other isn't, it's just the one that's doing it.

I've had my rear OS sliders cleaned and re-lubed and this has solved the problem for me.

If you are unlucky and it's been doing it for a while it could have chewed through the pad and disc.
 
Hi Loxy,

Cheers for that, I will try this.

I did think it could be brakes (as it stops if I apply the brakes), but it doesn't happen when cold (or very often at all for that matter) and is not metallic, its a dull droning noise - I'm leaning towards a wheel bearing.

I have read on a few other forums that wheel bearings can stop making a noise if the brakes are applied as it insulates the system and essentially stops the vibration???

Its a 56 plate on 38k, does this (and my symptoms) sound about right for a wheel bearing?

If it is, whats the dealer price for a change or is a DIY job?

Cheers in advance guys! :)
 
Fair enough. Pads have the same symptoms, only when warm, stop when brakes applied and comes and goes with changes of direction.

You are right though, very well could be a wheel bearing.

Jack the car up, and grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to rock it, there should be minimal movement unless the bearing is goosed. Then take the wheel off and turn the rear hub with the studs. If it's the bearing you'll hear a scratchy sound or feel rough to turn, it will be obvious.

Depends how competent you are as to whether you can do it yourself. It's a caliper, disc and hub off job.
 
Loxy,

You were right mate.

My front right brake is binding. I checked if after a long drive with little braking, and 3 were warm and that one was very hot.

So, what do I need to do, will it be take apart and clean job (refurb??) or new pads and disks? You mentioned cleaning the sliders, anyone got a how to guide on this? As this could be a cost free 1st step.

Cheers
 
I've taken mine to a garage in the past to have the sliders cleaned but it looks a simple enough job if you know what you are doing. I just don't trust myself with brakes.

He basically took the calipers apart, brushed off the brake dust and re-greased them. If you are unlucky it could be a sticking piston, and that's a refurb job.

Replacing the pads and discs might be necessary depending on how bad they are, but replacing them alone won't solve the problem.
 
wish i read this earlier just changed rear pads yesterday i know drivers side was binding on and off few a couple of months but havent had sliders greased asked my mechanic and he said everything was working fine just a build up of dust so guess this could be happening again soon
 
Problem solved, took it to the garage and they have cleaned and greased the slides.

However, as it has been happening for a month or so I now need discs and pad desperately, he said the pads have worn at an angle.

They have quoted £182 all in for the fronts, does this seem good?

Loxy, thanks again for the heads up!
 
Get them to file the slides on the new pads. FN2 base plates are litterally 1mm too big. a slight file to remove the paint makes them so much easier in the caliper guide and they never stick after.

I always file down mine and my friends pads prior to fitting and grease the slides. No issues ever
 
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