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FN2 FRS Geometry

weegaz22

weegaz22

Messages
35
Hi guys, looking at buying the camber bolts and shims to do a fast road setuponce i get tyres and brakes out of the way, however i live miles away from the guys that are best known for it setting it up, TDI, ABP etc, But i do have access to a ramp and geometry equipment at my brothers work and would just do it myself. but the only thing i can't find are what the settings are set to, ie camber @ -1.5 Degrees, Toe out etc etc, Tried the search but nothing coming up.

anyone posted up a printout of their geometry?

Cheers
 
Where do you live, there are places all over that could do you a decent FRS

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Glasgow, Tbh I would rather do it myself, It's just the way i am, i would rather pay the same and buy a tool for a job and be able to do that job myself 100 times over than pay someone to do it once, it also leaves me more money for other things, but you can't really do it if you don't have target settings to aim for.
 
For things like geometry I would leave that to the professionals.
There is a Honda specialist called Automek who are in Scotland, not sure where though.

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Ed said:
For things like geometry I would leave that to the professionals.
There is a Honda specialist called Automek who are in Scotland, not sure where though.

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Click to expand...

Its a basic geometry setup on a fairly standard car, its not rocket science, fair enough its been a few years since i have done it as i no longer work as a mechanic anymore, but don't let anyone tell you its a black art where you need voodoo dolls and juju magic.:lol:

Chris. said:
https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?22184-Suspension-for-beginners

1 degree neg camber all round
2mm toe in at rear
1mm toe out at front

It's all personal preference though.
Click to expand...

Cheers Chris, that will do as a start, its not like there is too much to adjust on the CTR as standard, My old Mk1.5 MR2 had a fair bit of adjustability and had it running the TRD geometry setup which was quite a bit better than standard for "spirited driving" :lol:

have also read that most of the CTR's were never near Honda's geometry specs anyway so a basic setup should see improvements
 
Camber bolts on the front to adjust camber obviously and angled shims on the rear so adjust toe and camber so you can set them up as you want, it is just not a chase of putting it on a Hunter and twising some bolts.
 
How many shims do you get for the rear in the kit? just 1 per side? so if you wanted a more track oriented setup you would need a couple of sets or does it come with a couple of them for each side loxy?, i'm assuming whatever you get it'll be enough to setup the rear camber to whatever the likes of ABP/TDI run it at, and what do you mean by its not just a case of getting it on an alignment rig and twisting some bolts? you talking about taking measurements to figure out if the toe in/out on each side is equal?, setting caster? etc can you elaborate?

I've done it in the past on cars using a string box method, DIY camber gauge with a plumb bob, toe plates etc, IMO it's good enough for a road based setup, not trying to win any races here, plenty of guys setup plenty of their track cars this way, sure its not a fast or easy way to do it but it can be done, but as said i can get access to a ramp with castor plates and an alignment rig if i want to.
 
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How many shims depends entirely on how far out it is to start with and you don't know that until you get it measured.

I personally wouldn't use ABP, I've seen some posts on social media of their setups that are worrying. I personally wouldn't risk it.

Grinspeed or TDI-North for that matter will carry a stock of the correct sized shims and just fit the right ones according to the before measurements and double check again after when the car is back on the ground.
 
If i need more i will just use the ones i buy as templates to make more, got plenty of fabrication tools and sheet metal lying here from building the campervan last year.
 
Those are different to the one's I looked at, the ones i looked at where basically half a shim that went on the bottom 2 bolts which i wasn't too happy with as to me that would have transferred more stress to the bolts due to mating faces not sitting completely flat on each other.

Who's shims are they loxy?
 
Is the ride still good with the eibachs even without frsu? Using my purely for the road. Do you also need dampeners when getting the springs done?
 
Commander said:
Is the ride still good with the eibachs even without frsu? Using my purely for the road. Do you also need dampeners when getting the springs done?
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Lowering the car will affect how it sits, possibly increasing camber more than you would want. The factory tolerances on the FN2 are also quite large on the rear of the FN2 and with it being a torsion beam set-up, you can't adjust the toe or camber without shims. Better to get it done as you will get the handling benefit, but not essential. Ride will be improved however.

Unless your shocks are very tired, you don't need to replace them as the Eibachs work well with OEM dampers. If they are worn however, the Eibachs have been known to show this up and the ride becomes bouncy.
 
what have you heard about ABP? id be very interested. had mine done by ABP a year ago.
Loxy said:
How many shims depends entirely on how far out it is to start with and you don't know that until you get it measured.

I personally wouldn't use ABP, I've seen some posts on social media of their setups that are worrying. I personally wouldn't risk it.

Grinspeed or TDI-North for that matter will carry a stock of the correct sized shims and just fit the right ones according to the before measurements and double check again after when the car is back on the ground.
Click to expand...
 
Posts on FB, mainly on the Civinfo group from people who had FRS done, it didn't feel right so they went and got a Hunter reading done and the measurements were all over the place.

Easily findable, just have a search on the group.
 
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