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Gains without remap??

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64
Anyone got any ideas?? As I'm due to start mods on my ep3 and wonder is it better to get intake and zaust sorted then remap or remap first then the above as I can't afford to do all three in kind go.

just trying to get an idea of best way to go, not after the fastest car but I would like it faster but I also want it to sound better too grrrrrrrrr
man so confuddled in what to do first, if gains can be made with just intake and zaust then I think that's first

also best combo for this atm I've got
k&n typhoon in mind and scorpion oval non resonated catback as mods anyone got this or can recommend better combo then I'm all ears.
 
You'll make small gains in top end power. Don't rmap first because you'll have to pay twice for maps once you've modified it.

Bin the K&N and get anything that isn't open cone in the engine bay.
 
This was posted by TDi-North the other day on Facebook:

TDi-North said:
1149199_602965609725378_1494262389_o.jpg


Here's another very good comparison.

Solid line is an EP3 remapped with K100. Mods are injen intake, RBC, Toda manifold and good catback.
It has made 247bhp and 176ftlb

Dotted line is same car, same mods just stock ecu.
235bhp and 160ftlb.

Compare to standard car (dashed line) at 198bhp and 146ftlb.

So in summary just bolting parts on you will see some improvement but it's just no comparison with getting it properly tuned.

Typhoon isn't the greatest, just have a search for people's opinions. ;)
 
Hmmmmm, IMO that's an EPIC gain without any sort of fueling adjustment.

That's 37hp more by just fitting bolt on parts.

Then add a map and it gives you 12hp more :~ .

That sounds and looks back to front for me, I'd expect at least.

Do you know if the same car pulled the original base line figure ??

Pretty much spot on book figure that.
 
Considering how over-fueled it is in OEM guise, it's really not all that surprising.
 
Considering how over-fueled it is in OEM guise, it's really not all that surprising.

It is to me and all the information I've heard over the last 7 years.

When I fitted my mods without a map I only made 5 hp, almost one horse per mod.

Mapped it and made field full of them.
 
<p>
Mine made, 201 standard, 217 with B-pipe and AEM CAI. 223 after remap.</p>
<p>
&nbsp;</p>
<p>
The big difference is in the mid-range and the torque figures, changes the car completely...&nbsp; as you know. &nbsp;</p>
 
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Go for a aem cai I miss mine sound of it was good, only do it if you can put up with dodging puddles though:lol:
 
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I've read that about the CAI is it really that bad or are we talking BIG puddles ( whick I try and avoid anyway or at least go through slowly) ?
 
I've read that about the CAI is it really that bad or are we talking BIG puddles ( whick I try and avoid anyway or at least go through slowly) ?

Im the same as hazz i didnt avoid inless it was massive, i've drove in torrential rain loads of times and it was fine.

Think its more if you're on country roads and risk of flooding and it catches you off guard.
 
It is to me and all the information I've heard over the last 7 years.

When I fitted my mods without a map I only made 5 hp, almost one horse per mod.

Mapped it and made field full of them.

Thats why data > Forum rhetoric

Chucking bolt-ons onto a stock ECU works okay

Tuning them to a piggyback ECU works fantastic
 
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