Heat soak
- Thread starter GOLFYT
- Start date
Hazz
B16
- Messages
- 8,827
Heat soak is when an air filter heats up with the engine's heat and it then heats the air as it enters the filter.
Hot air = lower density, lower density = less oxygen, less oxygen = smaller bang.
The worst culprits are open cone filters which sit at the back of the engine bay, not far from the exhaust manifold. To avoid heat soak you need either an enclosed box like the OEM, the ARC or the Gruppe/Tegiwa M. Alternatively you can run an open cone filter in an area where it will suck only cold air, like the wheel arch. See AEM CAI or Injen CAI.
Heat soak is most noticeable in summer after being sat in traffic, giving the filter plenty of time to heat up.
Hot air = lower density, lower density = less oxygen, less oxygen = smaller bang.
The worst culprits are open cone filters which sit at the back of the engine bay, not far from the exhaust manifold. To avoid heat soak you need either an enclosed box like the OEM, the ARC or the Gruppe/Tegiwa M. Alternatively you can run an open cone filter in an area where it will suck only cold air, like the wheel arch. See AEM CAI or Injen CAI.
Heat soak is most noticeable in summer after being sat in traffic, giving the filter plenty of time to heat up.
- Messages
- 211
Thanks that is really helpful and summed it up nicely, i was either looking at the Tegiwa or the K+N typhoon, i know the Tegiwa is alot dearer but ive heard excellent reviews, ive also heard good reviews about the K+N but this is what brought up the heat soak issue, any input on that would be much appericiated
- Messages
- 577
Don't get too hung up on this heat soak stuff. It's not really an issue and makes no difference in day to day driving. I have the Aem v2 intake and is superb. It is an open cone filter and the throttle response is amazing compared to the ITG induction kit I had before. Prior to that I had a Piper X open cone filter and that was very good. I do 14k a year and don't have any issues with heat soak. You would be better looking at what's the most efficient system rather than worry about heat soak as for day to day it's not an issue unless you spend all day in traffic jams.
- Messages
- 230
Over on ctro theres a dyno thread showing a fair loss in performance from a k+n typhoon compared to oem airbox with hondata mod. The throttle response will feel improved as the distance air travels in the system is shorter, but in reality it looses far more power in the mid range than it does at high rpm. Even once moving along, the cone is at the back of the bay, the incomming air is juat pushing engine heat back to the filter. K+ns and aem v2s simply don't work on the k20s. The gruppe m or tegiwa is still a short ram set up, but enclosed and takes air from the scuttle panal. Not only is this air cold, but the opening is placed in a location of high aerodynamic pressure, effectively pushing more air in. Thats why they're so good. The stock airbox is very good to start with, doing the hondata mod is dyno proven to give more than an induction kit.
- Messages
- 577
Do you have a link? I would be very interested to see what the loses are. I bet they are so small that for day to day driving, they are hardly if at all noticable which is the point I was making. Throttle response was far improved for my EP3 when moving over to an AEM V2 from an ITG Maxogen. As for the Gruppe M/Tegiwa etc, well yes, this is the best and the point I was making about being better at looking at the most efficient system which these are rather than worry about heat soak.
Last edited by a moderator:
- Messages
- 230
I'll pm the link later. Was 1bhp less at peak, which you wouldn't notice day to day, but it was much less in the low and midranges where i'd have expected sri's to perform.