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Hondata Group N ECU for fn2

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158
Hi need some help, I'm about to buy a Hondata ECU for my fn2 from another member, although it's been laying around his shed for about a year, and he don't have any documents on it.

He brought it for his fn2 but didn't keep the car long, replacing it back for the stock ecu and sold the car it for an ep3 (some will say a wise choice)

He now has had this laying around, but can't remember much about it.

I'm considering buying it, although I have heard no one talk about such an ecu.

It's on hondatas website and known as a hondata group n ecu..

Anyone heard of it? It's literally a plug and play ecu... Take your old one out, put this one in? 10 minute job?

Here's a link, was it discontinued? Is it no good?

Hope someone can help

http://www.hondata.com/reflash_07_euro_ctr.html
 
Everything you need to know is in the link you've provided.

It's a plug and play, so it can not be remapped. It's just a generic map on an ECU that's designed to be a little less restrictive for mods. It keeps the same a:f ratio as the stock ECU so if you're going to couple it with other mods, choose them wisely.

Because it lowers the Vtec crossover point, it will increase acceleration marginally and the change in cam angle will give similar changes to top end power. Although this will improve performance slightly, it's probably going to be less fuel efficient and you MPG will drop. That is after all why you have the low cam profile, for economy.
 
Everything you need to know is in the link you've provided.

It's a plug and play, so it can not be remapped. It's just a generic map on an ECU that's designed to be a little less restrictive for mods. It keeps the same a:f ratio as the stock ECU so if you're going to couple it with other mods, choose them wisely.

Because it lowers the Vtec crossover point, it will increase acceleration marginally and the change in cam angle will give similar changes to top end power. Although this will improve performance slightly, it's probably going to be less fuel efficient and you MPG will drop. That is after all why you have the low cam profile, for economy.

Spot on what Jermal said.

It was the first ECU modding option available for the FN2, but when the Flashpro was released there didn't seem much point to getting one any more, unless they are a second hand bargain.

It's not a bad map, the Flashpro also comes with a Group N map on the disk and most people load that on before they get a custom map.

I wouldn't want to try it with anything other than basic breathing mods and you lose the immobiliser, which unless you get an aftermarket one fitted will land you in hot water with the insurance should your car get nicked...

Lifted shamelessly from another forum:
Type R - Hondata Group N ECU


  • Fitted the Hondata Group N ECU today, as supplied by CPL Racing. Certainly not as flexible as our EP3 brethren's Kpro, but as availablilty is thin on the ground, thought I would give it a shot. The Group N is a direct replacement. CPL delivered it special delivery and it took 15 minutes to fit. A simple plug and play affair.

  • To replace the ECU, all that is reuired, is the removal of the plastic cover that encases the ECU, this is removed by unclipping it from the two plastic mounting points at the lower front edge and lifting it clear. To enable you to lift the casing off, you have to release the fuse box from its three fitting points and raise it 2-3 inches to allow clearance. Then simply remove the three M10 bolts hold in the ECU to the mounting frame. Once the unit is free, disconnect the three ECU leads that attach to the rear of the ECU and lift clear.

The parameters that have been changed are:

  • The VTEC point has been lowered to 3800 RPM
  • There is a VTEC window in place between 3800 - 5200
  • Rev limit raised to 8600 RPM
  • Secondary Oxygen sensor has been disabled. (To allow race headers)
  • Oil level indicator has been disabled. (Not sure why?)
  • Ignition timing has been advanced
  • Cam angles optimised for better breathing

Bad Points:
  • Initially, I was not pleased with the ECU, as my car sounded quieter at idle, and had lost a little of the burble that I like.
  • Loss of the immobiliser. (However after market immobilisers (CAT1) are available for approximately £100)

Good Points:

  • A cracking increase of torque felt, pulling much harder from idle through the entire rev range. 8600, feels like a cushion limiter, just dipping it by about 200 rpm, when it hits. Not vicious but gradual. There seems to be a bit more urgency in the way the the REV counter swings around, heading towards the redline whilst under acceleration and the Speedo backs this up, with 100 being achievable in third. (Simulated Driving: Other vehicles may deviate from said figures - Don't try this at home and not on a public highway - End of Disclaimer).
  • Now, I was quite concerned as to what would happen with the new ECU, when I hit the 3900 point. In respect of what speed I would be doing in top, and would it interfere with the cars normal cruise control speed. I know the car is not tuned for economy but I didn't want it to be sat in the VTEC continuously.
  • This is cleverly, where the VTEC window comes in. The VTEC window allows you, anywhere between 3800 and 5200 to press the throttle, and immediately be in the VTEC range, all the way through to 8600. But if you wanted to cruise at say, 4000 rpm, the VTEC will disengage. It senses the application of the throttle to either switch in or out of the VTEC. It does this anywhere within the VTEC window, giving you some sort of economy.
  • As the Group N is a pre-set ECU, it can be bought off the shelf. £659.00 Including Special Delivery. There is no requirement for you to send and ECU. An exchange option is not available, and realistically, probably not financially beneficial for the supplier.
  • The Group N is optimised for vehicles that have any combination of intake, header or exhaust. From that you can expect that it is a generic map that is loaded into the ECU. One that has been calculated to operate with stock cams. In fact, there is a disclaimer that says that it will probably not be beneficial to those who have uprated cams as the VTEc point will be too low, however as there are only a couple of Cams available at present. Toda A3, and Brian Crower it could be assumed that the Hondata has been designed without taking these newly available products into consideration.
 
Thank you jermal and Loxy for your help there, really apprecaitive. Well i've brought the milltek exhaust but little unsure about buying this piece of kit? I'm not overly massive on mods, a little va-va-voom is all I am after..

Maybe the exhaust is enough for me... I don't want to screw my car over or damage it in anyway. I especially am not wanting to lose the immobiliser and oil light (apparently)

One quick question-

If I did plug it in, will my car be as normal if I restore it back to the stock ecu? I.e will the immobiliser work again, and will the vtec resume to norm?

Thanks again, just need some direction, I have no idea when it comes to the technical parts to my car.. I assume this would be a nice little mod, for someone who is after minimal gains.

Also jermal-why do I need to choose my mods carefully? Sorry, as I said, bit rubbish when it comes to tech stuff
 
One quick question-

If I did plug it in, will my car be as normal if I restore it back to the stock ecu? I.e will the immobiliser work again, and will the vtec resume to norm?

Yes it will. You would be best advised to disconnect the battery first when swapping over the ECUs which the cut and paste didn't state.

Putting the standard ECU back in would just be like disconnecting the battery and resetting the ECU. It will take a few miles for the ECU to settle down then it should be back to normal.

Thanks again, just need some direction, I have no idea when it comes to the technical parts to my car.. I assume this would be a nice little mod, for someone who is after minimal gains.

It's not bad, but it might be worth considering the Flashpro, but it obviously depends how much you are getting the Group N ECU for. Using the Flashpro with the Group N map loaded, the oil light still works and so does the immobiliser.
 
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