How do i confirm the headlights are negative switching?

[andycole]

Got a multimeter sat here but HATE electrics!!!

I need to confirm the switching arangement for HID4U so they can diagnose my full beam problem.

Any electricians can offer an idiot guide on what to do?

Cheers
AC :?

 

[R20190]

If you have a pre-facelift CTR it will be reverse polarity, i.e. type-B fitting.

If you have the facelift, I don't think it has reverse polarity as it is a single beam (H1).

Just a tip, install a slightly higher fuse for the HIDs. I think the standards are 15A, install a 20A fuse.

 

[andycole]

If you have a pre-facelift CTR it will be reverse polarity, i.e. type-B fitting.

Just a tip, install a slightly higher fuse for the HIDs. I think the standards are 15A, install a 20A fuse.

Cheers mate, i have the neg harness fitted as supplied, just they would like confirmation as they have never had the problem i've got with full beam before.
AC :?

 

[R20190]

If you have a pre-facelift CTR it will be reverse polarity, i.e. type-B fitting.

Just a tip, install a slightly higher fuse for the HIDs. I think the standards are 15A, install a 20A fuse.

Cheers mate, i have the neg harness fitted as supplied, just they would like confirmation as they have never had the problem i've got with full beam before.
AC :?

Thats strange, AFAIK they definitely know the CTR is reverse polarity. Not many cars are reverse polarity but a number of hondas seem to be. Not sure the reason tho.

What ballasts did you get? Some ballasts have a device inside to protect against incorrectly installed polarity.

 

[andycole]

All their own kit:

It would appear that the solenoid does move the bulb when you go from dipped to full beam but something isnt right with where its moving to.

Waiting for them to ring me with whats happening next.
AC :?

 

[R20190]

Those are hella gen-1 clones. A little hit and miss really, but some korean clones are ok. You may need to cut the rubber seal on the back of the headlight to fit the solenoids and may also need to bend the metal bracket as well.

What is wrong with the movement? Is is staying in one position?

Here is a diagram I drew for another forum a very long time ago but I can't remember if I checked to see if everything is correct. Soz

 

[andycole]

The kit is fitted fine and dandy, i'm not sure on the solenoid movement and neither are the suppliers, just that when you go to main beam the light that lit up the road on dipped dissapears leaving 30 ft of darkness in front of the car, like being on sidelights really but in pitch black.
AC

 

[R20190]

The kit is fitted fine and dandy, i'm not sure on the solenoid movement and neither are the suppliers, just that when you go to main beam the light that lit up the road on dipped dissapears leaving 30 ft of darkness in front of the car, like being on sidelights really but in pitch black.
AC

Right ok I see. The problem is the position of the capsule! :wink:

You will notice on a standard filament H4 bulb there are 2 filaments. These are positioned VERY accurately for both dipped and main beams. The reason for this is that each filament emits light for different parts of the reflector in your headlight housing. If the position of the filaments are not spot on, the light will be reflected off adjacent reflectors causing the light pattern to distort.

MOST bi-xenon bulbs are not calibrated to this accuracy so you will inherently get a poor beam pattern. Manufacturers/suppliers will not admit this and will claim they are very high quality etc... some don't even know this. :wink:

What I suggest you do is get a normal filament bulb and line it up with your bi-xenon bulb with the skirt as the datum, and see if the position of the dipped and main beam capsule positions are correct. I suspect they are not.

 

[andycole]

Hi mate, i see what you mean but a bit difficult to check without blinding myself, with the lights off the solenoid is in dipped position but you need power and full beam on to move the solenoid to check the capsule position.
AC

 

[R20190]

Hi mate, i see what you mean but a bit difficult to check without blinding myself, with the lights off the solenoid is in dipped position but you need power and full beam on to move the solenoid to check the capsule position.
AC

No you don't. The light does not need to be on to move the glass capsule, in fact, you can move if by hand (gently of course) with gloves or a tissue. (Its basically just a magnet controlling it). As long as you don't touch it with your bare hands you'll be ok. Obviously do this when its cold. :wink:

If you're worried about damaging it, just take my word for it.

 

[andycole]

Hi mate, i see what you mean but a bit difficult to check without blinding myself, with the lights off the solenoid is in dipped position but you need power and full beam on to move the solenoid to check the capsule position.
AC

No you don't. The light does not need to be on to move the glass capsule, in fact, you can move if by hand (gently of course) with gloves or a tissue. (Its basically just a magnet controlling it). As long as you don't touch it with your bare hands you'll be ok. Obviously do this when its cold. :wink:

If you're worried about damaging it, just take my word for it.

Ok mate, i'll try it later then, was just going on what the supplier had told me as i'm defo no expert in electrics.
AC :?