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Idle Fault??

T

TypeRKid101

Messages
156
Hello, just wondering if anyone could help me. I have recently bought a 2003 civic type r and over the xmas period it had been sat a month whilst I sorted out work that needed doing to it, since getting it back on the road I have noticed that the idle sits extremely high at about 3k on cold starts then once warmed a little it hunts between 2-2.5k, now knowing this from the past I cleaned out the idle control valve and the throttle body which has cured that issue. but now when I come off throttle when coming to a stop the idle rises then drops to normal, i.e if coming off throttle at 2k it will rise to 2.5/3k then drop to 800rpm whilst stopped. I have again cleaned out idle control valve but to no luck.

Any help greatly appreciated.

P.s I have also noticed that when cold and usually in 1st or 2nd gear when I am going relatively slow lets say coming up to a turn in the road and I let the throttle off the car is somewhat jerky for a second or two until clutch is engaged. Best way to describe its like I am coming off throttle and pressing the throttle on and off for that second its like it wants to carry on going. its not a misfire but didn't know if it could be interlinked with the idle issue??

Thanks.
 
Could be a vacuum leak , spray vacuum pipes with brake cleaner or butane gas ,if revs increase then possible split rubber hose .

Or possible faulty idle air assist valve

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There's an ECM learn procedure for the idle air control valve.
Start engine
Turn off all engine loads (lights, heater fan, radio etc.)
Fast idle at 3,000rpm until at operating temperature.
Let idle for around 5 mins (don't include idle time when rad fan kicks in)
Idle then should stabilise.


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OK thanks for the replies will try both suggested things and see if they can sort out the problem. Just a quick one is the idle air assist valve the thing that bolts to the side of the block Phil??

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Will do pal, I'll try it today. Only reason I ask is because mine has a load of coolant residue build up around it as if it hasn't been sealing properly for a long time is on the list of other things to do.

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So tried the idle learn procedure to no luck still the same. I was wondering if it's something I have done, when I cleaned the valve out I did remove the motor I.e the part with the tamper proof screws in, does this need to be positioned in a certain place as it is possible to adjust it ever so slightly??

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Could be the Throttle Position Sensor needs calibrating. There is a thread on here somewhere on how to do it.
 
The part with the tamper proof screws isn't a motor. It's your throttle position sensor. Disturbing this will cause all sorts of running issues and will require setting up correctly.


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OK I probably didn't explain it great it's not the TPS sensor that I removed it's the idle control valve end cap with the magnetic bit inside.

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Maybe check you've plugged the connector back in properly or not damaged the terminal pins . Sounds like its sticking or staying open by trying to clean it you may have dislodged some carbon preventing it from working properly

If you know someone with a good scan tool you can use special function and activate solenoids to check the operation, or check the resistance at the control valve with a multimeter .

Did you check for a vacuum leak ?

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Yeah I had it all to pieces again last night checked all pins and connectors, they are all good. I had it to a point where I could spin it freely with my fingers with no effort at all. Only thing I have noticed is when I put the magnetic end cap back on it seems like the spindle then goes a bit stiffer and doesn't move around as freely. Take the end cap off and it's free again. Is this normal??

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Im not too sure pal ,I never took it apart when I cleaned mine out. Just blasted out the carbon with brake cleaner and compressed air

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Well I have finally managed to get it running sweet as a nut, all running issues now gone and I can enjoy the civic again :).

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Honestly I'm not sure as I had done a few things to it all at the same time. I had cleaned and lubed with wd40 again, tapped the idle control valve body lightly with a hammer just to free it off a little bit more and I positioned the magnetic end cap in a different place. As well as removing battery for 15 mins or so. One of those things cured it haha. Glad it has though.

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