• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

K-Pro. Mapping/Comparisons/Problems.

To add, have a look at the fault codes.

See if it's showing. P0**** code ref oxygen sensor.
 
no theirs an ELD i think its called thats showing up 59.77a which is stupidly high so i wonder if thats whats causing the airfuel or if the primary is causing the eld or both im lost the car runs totally fine, nice and pokey but the whole electronics side seams to be messed up :s
 
ELD is the Electronic Load Detector.

Its basically an ammeter in the fuse box. 59.77a ia quite high tbh, but I can't think of anything that would be drawing that amount of current outside of the starting circuitry.

How's your MPG??
 
im getting around about 30-35 mpg, and yes that was a when the engine light came on the dashboard i replaced that yesterday and the light when off and i thought that would of sorted the air/fuel because i thought they worked as a pair, the car was tuned by system r and seen that their where buttons in kmanager to kill o2 sensor signal etc i think ill get the primary sensor and then see if that cures the eld if not ill get a new eld, i just cant understand how the car is running fine, not sluggish or low mpg and all these sensors are broke with no engine light, i would of thought if the air/fuel wasnt being read properly it wouldnt respond properly on heavy acceleration
 
Are you using a wideband O2 sensor? From (very old and rusty) memory, you'll always get 14.7 from the standard narrowband sensor
 
I don't know it's just the standard one, I think I've solved the eld fault anyways I had a look at the old secondary sensor and noticed some of the wires had been stripped, got underneath today and the heat shield for the cat was abit twisted and scored the wires coating away and was earthing itself using the cat shield, ripped the cat off and sorted wiring out, no more error, now the car doesn't rattle either :) quick question involving .kal's i put a rsx kal on the other day and It ran great nice and pokey that shouldn't matter that it's for the rsx as their both k20a2's?
 
So the sensor fault is cleared now??
Good times....

KAL Should.... be fine..

Do a datalog to see the AF to be sure
 
their was no sensor fault just the sensor reading wasnt changing, it was a eld fault that was showing up, when i first put the kal on i got an ecu malfunction check calibration, then opened the file in notepad and opened a euro civic file in another notepad changed the ecu type and it worked fine after that, ive put the kal on yesterday and had a bit of a normal drive with the datalog and then a quick drive and no knocks and everything looks fine, its a nice smooth change over to vtec at around 4200 but to be honest you cant feel the change its just a nice progressive pick up through all the ranges, before all the drama's with the car when it was mapped as soon as it hit vtec it just spun the power away (no lsd) i just wish i had unlimited funds to clart on all the time i love it, thanks for all the help stoo much appreciated and to everyone else who had input.
 
Just a quick question about the K100. My facelift EP3 is standard apart from a ITG Maxogen induction and a Sportex B-Pipe.

If a standard EP3 is 197bhp, with a K100 and the mods I have, what sort of BHP gains will I be looking at?

Are the gains noticable or is it a case of the gains being more subtle but the improvement is how the car pulls through the rev range?
 
You'll see massive gains midrange as the VTEC crossover is set to where the high cam starts to make more power then the low cam which is typically around 4,400rpm to 4,600rpm, rather than the artificially high point where it was set by Honda.

The car will therefore have much more punch when in normal day to day driving. It's strange at first, but you soon get used to it.

Figures depend on which dyno the car is mapped on, for example Artech/Eurospec's dyno is notoriously harsh. However if the car runs around 197 stock, then you'd probably see anything from 215 to 220 with those mods, though I've seen higher recently with just an intake and B-pipe. Like I said though, the main gains will be in the mid range, anything up to around 35-40bhp, and lets face it, you don't drive everywhere at 8,000+ rpm. ;)
 
Loxy said:
You'll see massive gains midrange as the VTEC crossover is set to where the high cam starts to make more power then the low cam which is typically around 4,400rpm to 4,600rpm, rather than the artificially high point where it was set by Honda.

The car will therefore have much more punch when in normal day to day driving. It's strange at first, but you soon get used to it.

Figures depend on which dyno the car is mapped on, for example Artech/Eurospec's dyno is notoriously harsh. However if the car runs around 197 stock, then you'd probably see anything from 215 to 220 with those mods, though I've seen higher recently with just an intake and B-pipe. Like I said though, the main gains will be in the mid range, anything up to around 35-40bhp, and lets face it, you don't drive everywhere at 8,000+ rpm. ;)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Loxy. I must admit, I do find it a bit of a waste with the VTEC kicking in so high up the rev range so it might be nice to have it kicking in earlier.

One question, what do you mean about the Artech/Eurospec's dyno being notoriously harsh? They would be who I would go to for the remap but not sure what you mean by harsh in terms of a remap.
 
Linus27 said:
One question, what do you mean about the Artech/Eurospec's dyno being notoriously harsh? They would be who I would go to for the remap but not sure what you mean by harsh in terms of a remap.
Click to expand...

Harsh in that a standard car reads about 180-185 IIRC. A dyno is a tuning tool. It is useful for telling the tuner if there has been an increase in tractive effort by their changes to the engine map.

Gains are what you are looking for and the end peak figures are just that, figures, all relative to the starting point.
 
I've used euro spec twice. Like loxy said a dyno is a tool. With a k100 modded air box and a b-pipe and got 205.9 bhp. Before the k100 it made 190! It is nice to see what gains you get!!
 
I got a k100 map and ive noticed its jumpy in low revs in 1st and 2nd gear alot more, i know it isnt a big problem but i wonderd is this ment to happen or do i need to change somthing else.

It might not be related to the k100 but ive only noticed it since i got it.
 
Is Aaron's modded Palmer 3 still floating about? Looking for a decent map for GM/FEEL's RH/FEEL's Exh. to tootle about in before i can get down to TDI. (or even GM/Toda would do).
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi guys. I recently sold my ep3 and bought a DC5 with loads of good mods. Really pleased with it and its got the Kpro so i'm hoping this minor problem can be solved easily, basically the problem is that the MIL light comes on every now and then.
I've narrowed it down and the times it comes on are when i am freewheeling down a multi storey car park or leave the car idling for more than a few minutes. These are the only times it comes on and it runs amazing the rest of the time. When the MIL is on the idle speed drops and bounces around from 500 to 1000rpm and the car feels like it may stall, however it hasn't.
Could it be a fuel issue? I have the software and maps for the kpro but i'm yet to plug it in and i don't want to tweak anything. What should i do first?
Thanks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top