• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Knock Sensor & EML

G

GeeWood

Messages
41
Hello all,

Hope you can help.

I'll keep it short and sweet. Had my gearbox changed, they broke the knock sensor. Told me they tried to repair it and reattached it.

I have been advised elsewhere that once the knock sensor is broke it can't be repaired so I need to buy a new one.

However, can anyone confirm that if the knock sensor was completey broken or faulty, would the EML come on? There is no light and no codes are being read.

Thanks.
 
You need to see how many knocks it is recording. If it is throwing false positives it will be retarding ignition as a result and performance will drop.

If it isn't reading, it will throw an EML.
 
My knock sensor was damaged when I had a new clutch fitted. The EML came in and the code read P0325 - Knock sensor 1 Circuit bank 1 or Single sensor.

£90 for a new one.
65d18ad0a1a8d091b709e56720db83e2.jpg
d5e551afa017adf0394a6ba43f02c368.jpg


Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys.

I have the same code reader and no codes are being thrown up at all and the EML is not on. So is there a chance it is actually working?
 
GeeWood said:
Thanks guys.

I have the same code reader and no codes are being thrown up at all and the EML is not on. So is there a chance it is actually working?
Click to expand...
I'd probably make that assumption. Unless the sensor is physically damaged?
 
Yeah, I usually would. It's just that somebody in another owners forum seemed to suggest to me that when the sensor is broken it doesn't actually throw up the EML. Which seems strange as there codes as the picture above.

I showed the mechanic the picture above where it came apart and he said the same thing happened to mine and he just put it back together again.

Hmmm, maybe I should replace it just to be sure.
 
To be fair it was only the green plastic part that had cracked, it would probably work fine if you stuck it back together with an adhesive that could withstand the temperatures. If it's not throwing up any codes or the EML then it's pretty safe to assume that all is ok.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
TuckR said:
To be fair it was only the green plastic part that had cracked, it would probably work fine if you stuck it back together with an adhesive that could withstand the temperatures. If it's not throwing up any codes or the EML then it's pretty safe to assume that all is ok.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hope so. We'll see how it goes, no EML yet, but as the clutch is new, I have not gone in to VTEC etc, so will see later on.
 
If the knock sensor is too sensitive, it won't put the EML on. If it can't be detected, EML will come on and I would assume limp home as well.
 
Recording knocks that aren't there, false positives like I said in the first reply.
 
Knock sensors have a little piezoelectric thingy that detects vibration. Chris is saying if it was detecting too much vibration, say because it's not mounted properly, it won't throw a code.

I guess as long as you put it back together and it holds the current is passing through and giving a reading to the ECU.
 
I get it now. No idea on how to record the amount of knocks it is picking up and the amount that would be an issue.

I'll see how the car drives.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top