• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Lowering advice!

Messages
23
Hi, im looking to lower my 04 ep3 type r about 30-35mm on Eibach springs, is it possible to do this without uprating any other components?
 
you dont "need" to have a fast road set up.

You do if you want your car to handle as well if not better as it did on standard springs. The camber on EP3's cannot be adjusted with the OEM camber bar, so if you put lower springs on, the angle of the camber bar will change, thus putting your camber settings out.

A fast road set up should be the first port of call for any EP3 owner. Even if on standard springs.
 
To be honest i think you wouldn't notice a great deal of difference on the road with a 'Fast road setup' , i think on a track definately. my main concern is running the tyres off so would a 30-35 mm drop do this?
 
You would notice, and yes the fast road setup will help prolong the life of the tyres.
 
thanks for your views lads, if you notice a difference with the fast road setup then it will be worth getting. ill have to start looking around!
 
thanks for your views lads, if you notice a difference with the fast road set up then it will be worth getting. ill have to start looking around!

I noticed the difference of a fast road set up on an otherwise standard EP3. The geometry out of the factory is very hit and miss, so it's worth doing regardless. Obviously a road set up is no where near as aggressive as a track set up, but it's definitely worth doing.

Enhancing the handling of an EP3 is always the first port of call IMO. Fast Road Set Up (FRSU) coupled with a JDM ARB and even a lower tie bar are relatively cheap mods and transform the handling noticeably.
 
About £700 for the above mentioned.

I was going to have it done but cancelled as couldn't justify it. Im not to bothered about how well it handles (to extremes). I like to go fast in straight lines :D
 
as said above you could put the springs on but it won't handle as good as standard and will shred the tyres quickly i would have thought.
you will be looking at £700 all in to get the new parts needed inc springs and fitting.

jdm arb £100-10
front camber bolts and rear adjusters £110-20
abp eibach springs 30-35mm £140-50
rear lower tie bar £50-80

all prices above can be delivered new to you're door and will be needed to get a good setup.
the tie bar is supposed to be a bit of a placebo and not do much apart from looking cool from what i have heard.
 
TGM quoted me 650 for springs, camber arms and bolts geometry, labour and JDM ARB. SO i suppose for an anti roll bar you could prob up that price to £750.

Didn't really see me coming in my opinion, especially as i didn't have it done.
 
TGM quoted me 650 for springs, camber arms and bolts geometry, labour and JDM ARB. SO i suppose for an anti roll bar you could prob up that price to £750.

Didn't really see me coming in my opinion, especially as i didn't have it done.

However if you source and fit the parts yourself, which in all honesty isn't really that hard if you do the research, it doesn't have to be that expensive. Then all you have to do is have the geometry set up which is around £60.
 
Fast road set up is a must on the EP3, the difference is VERY noticeable. I can say this having had it done on two or three EP3's now.

My current EP3 has not got it done but I have the components all ready for it to be fitted. (Eibach pro springs, SPC camber arms, Ingalls front bolts, JDM anti roll bar, and spoon rear strut) that lot cost me £250 ish (second hand) and the FRSU at TGM along with fitting will be roughly £150 - so that is roughly £400. I can not wait to get it done.

Jord if you are running a stock suspension set up, you are missing out ;)
 
I would like to get it done, but im starting to wonder how much more do i want to spend on the ctr. I have some nice CW oem wheels to go on and i want to lower the car and be done tbh.

I can't justify keep on spending money on it.
 
I would like to get it done, but im starting to wonder how much more do i want to spend on the ctr. I have some nice CW oem wheels to go on and i want to lower the car and be done tbh.

I can't justify keep on spending money on it.

It can become an expsensive hobby that's for sure. As much as you're going to hate me saying this you're probably best of selling the Gruppe M to finance the suspension/geometry set up if you don't want to fork out the dollar. Of the two options, the suspension/geometry will give you the better car.
 
Im sure your right. Having experienced it yourself i do listen to what you say. However i like the straight line drive, i love the noise and dont corner like a maniac :D

I want to lower the car for cosmetics only. I appreciate a lot of people don't like this idea but hay.

Edit: not being able to fund a frsu isn't my reason for not doing it. I could do it but just don't want to spend more money on the car.
 
Youre driving the wrong car if you are after a straight line drive experience rather than corner or am I the only one thinking this.

BTW the boys are right, the FRSU is one of the first things to do pretty much over everything else.
 
CTRs are not good for the traffic light grand prix.


I can understand the appeal of straight line speed, but there are very few places you can do it without getting into trouble. I therefore find it far more enjoyable slinging my car through the twisties whils staying within the law of the land. Of course you can drive your car as quick as you want on track if you're after top end speed, but then if you're into your track days, you'd almost certainly be after decent geometry too.
 
Back
Top