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Milano Red DC5 (Turbo Build In Progresss)

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10
Ok so I'm about a year into owning my DC5 and decided now would be a good time to get back on the forums and post up a build thread.
Bought the Teg around a year ago almost bone stock with just a set of spoon lowering springs and some stuke winglets on her.

2001 Integra Type R C-Pack
Milano Red
Imported in February 2006
57000K
Full Red Interior


Love at first sight ..... couldn't believe how clean she was as the adverts are normally very misleading but this was a nice change to find the car looking better in person than it did in the pictures.

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First time getting her off the drive

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Stock engine bay

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First thing I had to do was change the stock wheel, as nice as it was nothing feels better than a good quality suede wheel. Found this No good racing wheel in a online action from Ireland and couldn't let it go.

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Next was finding a good quality slim boss that incorporated the standard clock spring and a quick release as the bolt holes didn't line up with the boss so Johny from Tegiwa imports hooked me up

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Excellent next day delivery and was very pleased with the build quality of both parts

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So we began to remove the old steering wheel and airbag/horn wiring disc, wasn't to bad getting it off as there are a few hidden clips you need to be aware of when attempting to remove yourself.

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The Money Shot

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Next thing that needed to be addressed was the wheels, standard DC5 wheels are great but they didn't have a aggressive fitment and looked a bit plain for me so searched through most of the internet to find a set of Advan RG's in 17 x 7.5 and 8.5, was a shame that they had been repainted as the original gold and blue decals would have been perfect but for the price of £550 with tyres I wasn't going to complain. (The person selling the wheels took them off his r34 skyline to put on a set of Rota Grids :eek: ......)

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Took the car to have new wheels put on with some fresh AD08's

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Shortly after a friend down in Plymouth was selling his Mugen Rep carbon bonnet in exchange for a standard one and some cash so had to jump on that offer so drove down and swapped over bonnets, mandatory picture taken sesh followed. Whilst I was down there Stuke Designs workshop was opposite so popped in there and put in an order for a front diffuser and side skirt extensions.

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Couple weeks later my diffuser and Splitter was ready to collect from Stuke Designs so went back down to Plymouth and picked them both up.

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So clean! Proper like that becoming a big fan of the dc5, steering wheel looks boss mate haha

Thank you very much and it was a hard choice between buying the DC5 and getting a Premier edition EP3 but the extra size of the DC5 swung it for me.
 
Heres a picture of the side skirt extensions, yet again great quality product and designed to leave gaps for the original side skirt clips to be fitted with easy access.

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First of all we decided to fit the side skirts

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Next we removed the front bumper and began mocking up how and where we were going to fit it, yet again Stuke Designs supplied me with all the bolts and hardware required to fit it correctly.

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This was the first car meet we went to with the car looking the way it does now

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This was us queuing up to get into the meet

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We began noticing that the bonnet was very unsecure just using the standard bonnet catch so I ordered a set of flush fir aero catch bonnet pins and began marking up the location for the pins, I seen multiple locations where people had fitted them but I decided a nice 45 degree angle would go with the lines in the bonnet and the headlights.

Best use for toothpaste ever, marking out the location for the first drill hole (Thank you Mighty Car Mods)

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Once the centre hole was drilled I could then use the template that came as part of the packaging and transfer the outline onto my masking tape, from that you can then mirror the shape across to the other side using a thin piece of card and using the bonnet outline as a guide to get the exact same angle and location.

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The we found the correct whole saw drill bit (1mm smaller than the actual size) to allow for fine sanding and correcting any mistakes. This was not a pleasant experience cutting into your nice new carbon bonnet but I really didn't want the bonnet flipping up at high speed.

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Next was the cut out the smaller hole, I didn't get any pictures of the next step where I used the dremel tool to cut along the straight lines joining the two holes together and then using a sanding wheel to finish the shape off and smooth out and rough parts of the cut.

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This is what the finished cut looks like and then it was time to check for fitment and continue to cut the other side out.

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One thing worth doing is putting a old cloth or dust sheet over your engine bay as allot of dust is created cutting carbon fibre or fibreglass. here both holes cut and yet again I didn't get any picture of cutting the underside skin but you don't need to be as accurate with the underside and it has to be much larger in order to fit the latch mechanism.

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Once the underside is cut out we then marked where the holes needed to be drilled for the bolts to bolt through, this was nice and easy although a good tip for holding the nuts into the catch mechanism is to use something like honey or a really week glue to hold them is as you try and screw the screw in as the nuts fall out and then fall inside the 2 skins of your bonnet and you will probably never get them out again.

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One everything was fitted and lined up correctly I gave the bonnet a clay bar wash to remove all dirt and contaminants from it and it was back to feeling like glass

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Tried out a fish eye lens for the phone and actually made some cool pictures of my wheels

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A couple of months passed where we didn't do anything to the car but I wasn't happy with the paint around the rear window and on the rear bumper where some of the lacquer had began to peel up so I got a few quotes and most places wanted £££££ Thousands to basically respray the whole car so I called up a friend who worked for a mobile repair company and asked him to help me out which he did. Now I know allot of people have bad things to say about mobile repairers but the quality of his work spoke for itself and it was any really minor damage to the paint.

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As you can see from the pictures the colour match was spot on, we did a few test samples and adjusted the mix to match the existing paint.

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The next day I went out and bought some quality G3 products to restore the rest of the cars paintwork and bring back its shine.

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Misses helped out with cleaning the car and gave the front bumper an in depth detail

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One of the prev owners had removed the Integra Type r badges off but had left a residue outline which wouldn't come off so we used the G3 Stratch compound to remove it and followed it with a polish and wax

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After giving her a goo clean outside it was time to tackle the interior so we got the wet vac out and went to town on the carpets and floor mats as well as hovering the seats and cleaning plastic trim

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Recently a friend gave me this tow strap and thought I would put it to some use so did some research and I seen many people just bolting them to whatever they could and just hung them from the lower grill but I wanted to incorporate it into the bumper as seen on a few of the more quality builds so first of all was to work out where exactly the small panel was in relation to the bumper and then work out the correct location for the cut.

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Yet again not the nicest feeling in the world cutting into your fresh bumper and paintwork but for me it just had to be done right.

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So we started off with drilling 4 holes, one in each corner and then began to drill out more holes along the centre line (same process as what we then done of the aluminium plate) until we was able to use a small dermal cutting disk and remove most of the waste material. Then I used a file drill bit on the end of the dermal to cut out a more precise hole and we ended up with this.

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Next I cleaned it up with a hand file and some sand paper although I didn't get pictures of that.
Once done I was able to put a pencil through the hole in the bumper and marked on the slam panel where the bolt hole was needing to be drilled out and then took the bumper off to drill and bolt the tow strap in place.

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Once happy with the location it was time to put the bumper back on and thread the tow strap through, I was going to leave it like that but I felt it just didn't look as well made as I would have hoped so I began looking to making a plate to go over the hole out of aluminium in the hope it would tidy it up some more and look like it was supposed to be there.

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Next I began mocking up a plate from 2mm thick aluminium I had left over and began to drill holes down the centre line and then cut the shape out using a dermal cutting disk.

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Once cut out it was wet sanded and all sides sanded to a curve and then decided on how I should mount the plate to the bumper.

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I decided to go for 2 pop rivets to hold the plate in place and was really happy with the outcome.

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At this point of owning the car I had become a bit bored of the DC5's power and was considering selling to buy a Evo FQ330 so got insurance quotes and came back cheaper than I had been paying for the DC5.
But the more I thought about selling her there more I couldn't let go of her especially after the work I had already put in and just how clean she was. So then I looked into getting more power from the standard K20a, looked into ITB's and although they sound amazing the power delivery would have still been to dull for me ( previous cars all being turbo'd jap cars over 300bhp plus )
Then I looked into supercharging but yet again the power delivery wouldn't have been exciting enough for me so then the only reasonable option was to turbo charge her :smt038 I spoke to a few friends who were in the process of turbo'ing there cars and they recommended I get in contact with Schuband Autoworks about one of there custom made kits. After chatting with Schuband we came to the agreement that we would go for:


Precision 5858 turbo (May be changing to a older precision 6062 Gen 2 which I found on ebay)
Precision 48mm wastegate
Custom sidewinder manifold & heat shield
Custom made catch can
Custom 3" V-Band Exhaust stystem
4 Bar Map Sensor
Headstone trv185 intercooler (already bought from a friend)
Stage 4 Competion Clutch
Kpro engine management
1000cc ID injectors
AEM 320 fuel pump & fuel rail
baffled sump
Mac 3 Port boost solenoid
AEM Wideband
Depo 4in1 Gauge


So as of now the car is booked in for her heart surgery on the 29th of May :D
 
Here's some pictures from my friends build that was just completed at Schuband Autoworks

Precision 5858 Turbo and 48mm Wastegate

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Custom Sidewinder manifolf with V-Band fitting

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This is of another turbo build they had completed but I don't know the owner

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Lovely build.

An Evo VIII 330 wouldn't be that much faster than a mildly tuned NA DC5. I have had two Evo's and still end up in Honda's again.

BTW your attempt at hiding your address hasn't worked well.
 
Small update:

So far the turbo, injectors and fuel pump have arrived, still waiting for the inter cooler to arrive unfortunatly.

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close up of the turbo and inspecting the turbines to make sure the turbo was new as described, very happy with the quality and there's some serious weight to it.

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we went for a AEM 320LPH pump which is pretty much plug and play with the DC5 also cheaper than a walbro 255 and more powerful, check out Deamon tweeks as there selling the AEM pump for £88 where other sites sell it for more.

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Originally i was going to go for Grams 1000cc injectors but after speaking to Hond-R they recommended i go for the Injection Dynamics 1000cc injectors as there more relabel and work better in a turbo build so ordered them and they arrived almost next day :)

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Close up of the injectors

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Repping the Hond-R band

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Gotta show people what your running

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Mandatory photo afterwards

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MOT time is due so it was time to tackle the SRS light and horn.

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first off was to striped back the steering column surround and found the 2 wires for the airbag, snipped the connector off and solder the resistor on.
The resistor needed is a 2.2ohm 0.25W 2A which can be bought for less than £2, this one was £5 but already came soldered to 2 wires and all coloured yellow to match the airbag lines.

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Follow this link for how to reset the system which then turn your light out https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?95938-How-to-fool-and-reset-airbag-system

Now the airbag light should disappear and your left with a sexy steering wheel and no dash lights :)

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The next step was to come up with a way of getting the horn to work, i went for a spring solderd to a wire and connected the the horn loom. The spring will stay pushed up against the back of the clock spring creating a connection no matter how you turn the steering wheel. I didnt get any other pictures of how i mouned the spring but all i used was some carefully placed zip ties and shes Mint

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Took her for a drive up to cheddar gorge while the weather was nice but didnt get any pictures in the gorge but got some nice shots while the sun was setting

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Here's some pictures from my friends build that was just completed at Schuband Autoworks

Precision 5858 Turbo and 48mm Wastegate

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Custom Sidewinder manifolf with V-Band fitting

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This is of another turbo build they had completed but I don't know the owner

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Random comment:
My names Suhail, new to this forum
That's a picture of my engine..Simon built that for himself and now I have it from the chap he sold it to. Its currently running 460bhp = 401whp and 320bhp on wastegate pressure.I think it's same setup as the dc5 above

I just don't know how to get traction! Tooooo much wheel spin lol
 
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