N/A build or Supercharger build? Advice needed 250+? 300?

[Callummm]

Hello all

i have been using the fourm for a while and check it every day or 2 but only signed up today just so i can ask questions but i like to think im pretty clued up on my honda's so hopefully i can help other out too

But back to the point im planning on making my 04 cosmic CTR a little faster and was wondering peoples thoughts on wether to got 250ish N/A with a slip diff or go for a jrsc/rotrex and get a diff further down the line? Im swaying towards N/A but could be convinced otherwise

Im currently running
Dc mani
dc cat back
tegwia/gurppie m intake
Rcb inlet and skunk2 throttle body not fitted yet
Grams 320l fuel pump
stage 1 comp clutch
And im planning a kpro and some injector dynamics 750cc injectors in the next couple of weeks and a slip diff towards the end of the summer

so this leads me onto my second question what sort of N/A power would i be likely to see?

Is anything else recomended for more N/A power? Around the 300 mark?

What sort of power could i see supercharged?

Would anything like cams valves ect need to be swapped out for uprated ones?

And what sort of N/A power could i see with a with all mods listed and a k24 bottom end?

Any adivce is appreciated
Thanks in advance

 

[Chris.]

You'll get around 240bhp with those mods. If you want over that you'll need cams, and if you want anywhere near 300 you'll need a stroker kit, possibly ITBs and £10-£20k.

If you want big power then supercharge it, however a 240bhp CTR is very capable and has a lot of midrange. Some say supercharging them ruins the handling as it's a lot of power for a FWD car.

 

[Callummm]

Really that much? I think ** just stick to around the 240/250 mark im sure 240/250 with a custom map frsu and a quaife/mfactory lsd would be my goal, is there any way to squeeze a few exta horses or a components on there limits? I dont really want to give up handling as its a fun little car before my frsu i cant wait to see what its like after, i think ** just go n/a

 

[Loxy]

Some say supercharging them ruins the handling as it's a lot of power for a FWD car.

Some say he urinates petrol...

I'm in that camp. I Rotrex'd my old FN2 and I had real problems getting the power down even with a Wavetrac in there. For example I could easily spin the wheels up in 3rd coming off roundabouts at about 60mph on a dry summer's day. I very rarely felt the LSD working due to it breaking traction so easily.

Base non-intercooled Rotrex kit with the OEM manifold (so MOT friendly, passed with it like that) saw 324 bhp and 200 ftlb, so it was very capable in a straight line. I just lost the fun in the twisties, which was and still is the biggest part of why I like Type Rs.

The Rotrex lasted 6 weeks on my car and I got it taken off and went cammed, never looked back. Much more fun and just as quick, due to traction, up to legal speeds.

 

[Chris.]

Really that much? I think ** just stick to around the 240/250 mark im sure 240/250 with a custom map frsu and a quaife/mfactory lsd would be my goal, is there any way to squeeze a few exta horses or a components on there limits? I dont really want to give up handling as its a fun little car before my frsu i cant wait to see what its like after, i think ** just go n/a

With the usual intake/exhaust/manifold/ECU you won't get over 250. Even with the RBC intake you'll struggle to hit that. But with a decent map you will gain around 40-50 bhp in the mid range. My old DC5 was running around 240 bhp and to get more meant dropping in cams or opening up the block. And burning £20 notes. :lol:

Get it mapped and then see how you feel. But I'd say if you then want more power, just but an Evo.

 

[tom83]

Buy a second hand Jackson Racing Super Charger, fit and forget kit. You will run 280-320bhp depending on supporting mods, all for less than £2k.

Im bias though, I had a Rotrex Supersport kit and a Turbo kit, and loved them both.

 

[Callummm]

I think ** keep an eye out for a second hand one, what sort of psi can be run safely without messing about with internals? I would be aiming for as close to the 300 mark as possible, would i need uprated fuel rail injectors ect for 300bhp? And what sort of power could i get with a watermeth setup?

 

[tom83]

I was running 14psi and all was well, but that was with a 6266 Precision Turbo. With a JRSC, you wouldn't be running nearly enough Psi or Bhp to risk the motor. I would look into a set of 650 injectors, just to avoid running lean at peak RPM, but I don't think these are absolutely critical to run 300bhp.

No idea about the Water/Meth setup Im afraid.

 

[Callummm]

Sounds sweet what sort of power were you putting out on your turbo build? I assume it was an ep3? Thats good then i'd like to think im capable of doing all the work myself maybe with a little help here and there so the less work the better, yeah i thought it could maybe need with injectors, i was thinking of maybe putting it back a couple months and going for a rotrex, do you think it would be worth it? Theres so many idea's going on in my head on what to do with the car i just need to pick one and stick to it

 

[Vteker]

Hi there, I am running 10psi on my Rotrex FD and currently putting down 412whp! On unrestricted 19psi the K20A put down 494whp! With this amount of power there's a lot of wheel spin sometimes even up to 4th gear with cold tyres! Once you adapt on throttle control it's quite fun to drive specially when there's a lot more torque available in any gear. I plan on getting the Hondata Traction control to help with the power delivery to the lower gears and damp or wet conditions! Water/Meth will be highly beneficial specially with forced induction as the IAT will be lower.

 

[doug2507]

300bhp 2000cc, do-able but factor in £20k minimum spend for long block/drivetrain/intake/exhaust/electrics/ancils/fuel. Longblock alone is around £12k+, same goes for Duratec etc. Never in a month of Sundays would you run that on the road.

Increase bore to give somewhere around 2200cc, still north of £5k for long block and then decent ancillaries on top. Probably just shy of 300bhp on a good day.

K24/20 frank, easy cheap route. Still need rods/pistons/valvetrain/ancils. 300bhp no bother with half decent road manners.

Charged. 300bhp+, stock bottom end, half decent ancils. Cheapest route by far.

My advice, get the rest of the bolts ons fitted, get it mapped then take it from there. You've already changed intake/exhaust with the stock ecu still in place, not ideal and k-pro / re-map will totally transform it.