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OEM or Tegiwa?

Hosh

Hosh

Messages
11
Hi chaps

Deliberating over 2 avenues for the CTR

I bought this car a few months back, well priced and not an insane amount of rust, all pretty doable, probably no welding etc, case of taking off all the surface rust, send for powder coat and or undersealing. It seems the car was a victim of a cat theft and the previous owner appears to have dunno a pretty bad job of sorting it out, it has some kind of aftermarket cat, the rest of the exhaust is oem but doesn't appear to have been put back together properly, few holes in the exhaust also so my Mot says it likely won't pass. (it's going be parked up and stored for the next 1-2years whilst I do all the work so not bothered)

I "wanted" to keep it completely vone stock but seems that il need use my next house deposit to get an oem cat so at the least that'll have to be aftermarket and then get oem replacement exhaust parts,

Or

I can deal with not keeping it totally stock and I thought about breather mods only for the car, all Tegiwa, so either the 100 or 400 cel sports cat, and then the Tegiwa cat back and then il add the Tegiwa indiction kit over the the standard Airbox.

What's route should I take!

I'm assuming that all those tegiwa bits will meal eml which wil mean remap, and wasn't really wanting to do that.

What do you think either of the above may have on any resale value in the future?

Thanks
 
What about OEM exhaust and then a sports cat? I wouldn't have thought that would need a remap.
 
Hi mate, seems to be a mixed bag of opinions as to whether it does ot not, would love to hear from someone who has this and what's happened. Also I'm 99% certain it will throw up a code as when I true the car on thr eml light does not Flash so I suspect the previous owner had the bulb out to not put off unsuspecting buyers like me (bit embarrassed I didn't pick up on it but hey ho) so that will need addressing too
 
I doubt the 400cel cat would cause any issue with the EML coming on, you can always buy an O2 sensor spacer which Tegiwa also do, it just pulls the sensor slightly out of the flow of exhaust gases preventing the light to come on.

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I'm in a similar situation to yourself.

I picked up my second CTR this year, almost 15 years after my first.

This time around things are a lot older in years and OEM parts are showing their age, however this time I'd like to stay OEM.

My first rule of thumb is that as soon as reputable aftermarket parts are cheaper than sourcing good OEM parts, I go for the aftermarket ones.


To address your question specifically, I'd be inclined to go the aftermarket route in this case.

You'll be future proofing yourself and the car for longer as opposed to bolting a 15+ year old exhaust part on. Often if a part fails, the best course of action is to replace it with something better than what was on it prior.

Tegiwa have come a long way in the years they've be trading and have built up a good reputation for their parts and service. They'd be much more willing help you with any issues as opposed to Bert from Bradford that sold you a CAT on FB Marketplace.

Regards the mapping, I think you'll be alright (give Tegiwa a call, see what they say about OEM AFR's with they're replacement manifolds), you just won't have a optimal/efficient as it could be set up. Much like 80% of all the cars on the road.
 
It's a decision that so many of us have kicked around before, stay OEM or not? In my experience OEM parts have been high quality and easy to fit, cheaper aftermarket version can be fiddly to sometimes fit and quality isn't quite as good so if you want to keep the car as OEM as possible, use OEM but the parts are more expensive,

If you want to modify then that's upto you but I would opt for the best you can afford. The Fujitsubo exhaust on mine is amazing quality looks more OEM and sounds great with no drone etc but it is a system that will set you back around £800+. So horses for courses really.

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Shoonk said:
The Fujitsubo exhaust on mine is amazing quality looks more OEM and sounds great with no drone etc but it is a system that will set you back around £800+.
Click to expand...

QFT

When I bought my current EP3, it was clear that the current centre section wasn't OEM and was an off the shelf brand that fitted OK ish but was blowing in places and ever so slightly rotated the tail pipe a few degrees.

Instead of getting another £60 cheap centre section, I opted for a quality second hand system and picked up Fujitsubo RM01A.

I can't imagine there's too many OEM good condition systems left out there anymore.
 
Hi suits, this is really the main issue in my pursuit of trying to keep it OEM, OEM new parts for these (exhaust components) are dear from honda but other buts are OK. So il likely go down the the aftermarket route

So started looking into my lack of Eml light on start up as its probs been removed, looked at some vids on YT, seems straightforward to take it out, but each light doesn't have it's own bulb, the chap on there removed the bulb that he thiught covers the eml (he wanted to remove the bump to stop the green key flshsibg as he had a k20pro ecu) when he removed it the green key stopped but the eml still continued working! How?! Spoke to a nice chap at Tegiwa yday for the above parts, mentioned this, I told him the odometer light is also out, and he said he's pretty sure the odo and the eml are on the same circuit.. Anyone have experience with this?
 
I just took out the cluster, all the other lights seems to work so I just moved around some of the bulbs etc to see if I can get a working, bulb into whatever circuit the Eml is on but nothing. Probs juts buy a new set of bulbs and try that, failing that what else would cause rhe eml to not Flash at all?
 
Regards the instrument cluster, I recently changed mine also as a few were out and it was very dim.

Good luck finding Honda ones, I picked these up from Amazon and changed the whole set (8 or 9 I think).


It's a possibility - but the EML may have cleared itself. On occasion after you've unplugged and plugged some engine cables the EML can come on and after a quick drive and few engine cycles it clears itself.

It happened to me once I'd carried out a few services items and cleared itself after a 5/10 minute drive.
 
A bulb went out on my cluster once, managed to find bulbs from Ling's Honda, however, I probably paid the above just for one bloody bulb naturally I bought a couple in case I remember saying to myself sod am I paying that amount for poxy bulbs again, luckily I haven't had too.

MOT for mine on Friday, I bet I have just jinxed myself lol.

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Oem CAT is a 400 cel, so the tegiwa one will be very close to the oem one so no EML or changes in the car behaviour. Weld it in a professional shop and you are good to go.
 
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