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P0420

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128
I am occasionally getting this fault code P0420 (Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1). Car runs fine but every now and again the engine fault light comes on. Having read other forum posts the first thing to do is replace the cat sensors. But my issue is money at the moment, having read other posts I should stick to OEM on this part but at +£200 per sensor I am going to struggle a little. So my plan is to replace one at a time and I am trying to guess which sensor is at fault. This code would suggest to me that it’s the sensor after the cat that’s the issue as this must surely be monitoring ‘cat efficiency’. The only thing that makes me think twice is that about 3 months ago I got another code P0132 (O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 high voltage) which is the senor before the cat. So if the sensor before the cat was faulty would I get the P0420 code?

A couple of side questions;
1. How long does the EML stay on after it registers a fault? I thought when you turn off and on the engine the EML would go away unless the fault is still there but this doesn’t seem to be the case. Last time I the EML came on it just went off again while driving.
2. Does the EML mean an MOT fail now? Previous cars have passed with the light on as an advisory but I’m sure somebody has told me that isn’t the case anymore.
 
The secondary O2 sensor just measures if the cat is working correctly. If you have a K-pro you can actually just disable it.

The risk you take putting it through MOT is it may fail on emissions. Even if it would be an advisory on the EML the cat isn't working correctly according to the sensor.

Also the advice about sticking to OEM sensors is correct, the cheap O2 sensors are known to fail quickly.

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The secondary O2 sensor just measures if the cat is working correctly. If you have a K-pro you can actually just disable it.

Unfortunately I just have the standard ECU.
So it does sound like its the second sensor that is faulty (or picking up the fault).
 
It sounds like the cat is on its way out if the sensor is telling the ECU it's inefficient. If the sensor was faulty it'll give you a code of 'High voltage' as the sensor won't have any resistance.

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It sounds like the cat is on its way out if the sensor is telling the ECU it's inefficient. If the sensor was faulty it'll give you a code of 'High voltage' as the sensor won't have any resistance.

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I Agree it sounds like the car is on the way out. A cheap and easy way to find out would be get a emissions test done. There are 3 main readings it will take.1 Hydro carbons: this is is unburnt fuel. 2 CO this is the Oxygen content measured and 3 Lambda is measurement of air fuel mix. If the HC is ok and the CO is ok this means the engine is running fine and not over fueling or under fueling. If the lambda is high this means the cat is done or on it's way out. Depending on how bad it is it might not show easily but it's what I would do 1st.
 
I Agree it sounds like the car is on the way out. A cheap and easy way to find out would be get a emissions test done. There are 3 main readings it will take.1 Hydro carbons: this is is unburnt fuel. 2 CO this is the Oxygen content measured and 3 Lambda is measurement of air fuel mix. If the HC is ok and the CO is ok this means the engine is running fine and not over fueling or under fueling. If the lambda is high this means the cat is done or on it's way out. Depending on how bad it is it might not show easily but it's what I would do 1st.

You’ve got mixed up with a few things there.
1, Hydrocarbons is unburnt fuel.
2, CO is carbon monoxide content.
3, Lambda reading is oxygen content.

General rule (but not gospel) If you’re Lambda reading is good but your hydrocarbon and/or CO reading is high. The catalytic converter isn’t doing its job.


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You’ve got mixed up with a few things there.
1, Hydrocarbons is unburnt fuel.
2, CO is carbon monoxide content.
3, Lambda reading is oxygen content.

General rule (but not gospel) If you’re Lambda reading is good but your hydrocarbon and/or CO reading is high. The catalytic converter isn’t doing its job.


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Yep sorry my bad been a long day! Any how it would be worth while getting it the emissions checked before replacing sensors.
 
Yep sorry my bad been a long day! Any how it would be worth while getting it the emissions checked before replacing sensors.
Agreed, take it to a garage or your MOT tester. They shouldn't charge you much mate.

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Cheers guys, because (and I know it sounds silly) but most of the post I have read suggest that normally its the sensor that is supposed to tell you that the cat is faulty is actually faulty itself. I can get an emissions test done no problem.
 
Cheers guys, because (and I know it sounds silly) but most of the post I have read suggest that normally its the sensor that is supposed to tell you that the cat is faulty is actually faulty itself. I can get an emissions test done no problem.
Hi mate, I would go with the cheapest option first. Get it tested on emissions and go from there. You'll then know if it's the sensor or the cat.

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