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Rear brake issue

S

shane147

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88
Ok after searching the forum I know there have been a lot of cases of rear sticking calipers which maybe the issue but please bare with me. First noticed a problem on my 04 facelift EP3 a few weeks back when pulling away in the mornings I would hear a fairly loud click from the rear brakes, like they were sticking. Then I came to clean my car and the rear o/s wheel barely had any brake dust on it compared to the other rear alloy. A closer inspection revealed that only half of the disk was making contact with the pad which was shiny and the other parts of the disks were a dull brown rusty colour. Also the part of the disk which had made contact felt scored.

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums...6-AB66-49B3-B88E-9DBB1E85A05C_zps8bqgmnic.jpg

So I am definitely going to get a new pair of rear pagid disks and pads as I don’t do track days they should be sufficient. My question is to you guys how do I tackle the source of the problem, it is either the caliper or something to do with the hand brake? Do I jack the car up take the caliper apart clean the brackets, all contacts and slide pins, re-grease the slide pins, fit the new disks and see if that does the trick? Or should I take the caliper apart clean it up before putting the new disks on because if the caliper is f*cked and if I need a new one there is no point fitting the news disks yet right? Any feedback is appreciated.
 
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It might be that the pads have had it. Take them out and have a look and look at the caliper as well.
 
I'd say so, as you'll just end up roughing up the new pads. But you need to work out if the piston in the caliper is moving freely or not.
 
First thing would definitely be to clean every thing and re-grease before stripping caliper down. I'd be inclined to clean and put back together then test for wheel drag, operation etc, you should get an idea then. I've just replaced a rear caliper on mine with one from a breakers. Before fitting, i noticed that when operating the handbrake mechanism by hand, you could see the piston moving. Not sure if this would still be the case when fitted?
 
Having found out that my NSR was dragging when I had my alignment done on Tuesday, I have read quite a bit about this recently.

Once you undo the two 12mm bolts holdind the caliper to the carrier:

1) Are both slide pins moving freely? If not remove, clean up and grease - replace if necessary.

2) Are the pads able to be moved by hand in the carriers? If not you may need to clean the carrier and/or file/grind a little material off the pad backing plate until they do.

If both of these are yes, then it is likely a sticky or seized piston. Which would give you three options:

A) Remanufactured OE caliper about £85, seller will likely want your caliper.

B) New pattern caliper (won't say Nissin) also about £85, no surcharge / exchange.

C) Refurb kit including piston about £30 per caliper. Seating a new dust seal is fiddly!
 
Ok the first thing I will do before putting the new pads and disks on will be to strip the caliper down clean it up, grease it up and see if it sill works. If it is the caliper I don't have to change both calipers do I, like disks and pads? If the other one 'ain't broke don't fix it' ?
 
Replacing one caliper is OK. The thing is that unless there is obvious damage / cause the other may not be far behind.


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Ok as the weather is predicted to be better this weekend (fingers crossed) I am going to take the caliper apart to have a look and diagnose the problem. Will I need a special caliper wind tool to take apart/ put it back together again? Also got my rear pagid disks and pads ready to put on after i have fixed the problem. I got them from euro car parts for £54 which I thought was really good :)
 
If not fitting new pads/discs you may not need a rewind tool. If you are, it will depend on the level of corrosion.

If you dismantle, I would not fit the new friction parts until you are confident that the caliper is in good working order.

A freely moving piston can be wound in using a screwdriver in the slot. Unfortunately on a ten year old caliper, I'd expect to need a tool. Even then you may need a big spanner on it to get movement.


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shane147 said:
Ok as the weather is predicted to be better this weekend (fingers crossed) I am going to take the caliper apart to have a look and diagnose the problem. Will I need a special caliper wind tool to take apart/ put it back together again? Also got my rear pagid disks and pads ready to put on after i have fixed the problem. I got them from euro car parts for £54 which I thought was really good :)
Click to expand...

If your replacing your pads you'll almost definitely need to wind the caliper back. You'll also need one or some improvised method if your planning on stripping the whole caliper and removing the piston. I would do that as a last resort though. Before that, I would just remove pads, clean up, grease etc ( as others have said)
 
You can remove the caliper from the carrier which will allow you to clean the sliders that the pads slide on and check/remove the carrier pins if necessary without stripping the caliper down. This would be my first check which worked a treat for my wife's ep3, Mine was a different issue and turned out to be a siezed caliper piston so needed replaced.

this may help.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=urK2EsZn4pQ
 
grumpyg1t said:
You can remove the caliper from the carrier which will allow you to clean the sliders that the pads slide on and check/remove the carrier pins if necessary without stripping the caliper down. This would be my first check which worked a treat for my wife's ep3, Mine was a different issue and turned out to be a siezed caliper piston so needed replaced.

this may help.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=urK2EsZn4pQ
Click to expand...

The video is very informative. I will do exactly that before taking the caliper apart. Once I have cleaned it up and re-greased how can I test if the actual caliper its operating properly after. I know it seems a silly question but I only ask this because if I know it is working properly I can then replace the pads and disks in a oner as well. Saves taking the wheels off again to fit the disks at a later date,
 
shane147 said:
The video is very informative. I will do exactly that before taking the caliper apart. Once I have cleaned it up and re-greased how can I test if the actual caliper its operating properly after. I know it seems a silly question but I only ask this because if I know it is working properly I can then replace the pads and disks in a oner as well. Saves taking the wheels off again to fit the disks at a later date,
Click to expand...

The best test is to put back together although you don't need to put the wheel back on, just try spinning the disk by hand and see if you get a couple of rotations, then try again with handbrake applied to make sure you can't move it. Release the handbrake and see if the disk rotates again. If it does you may be good to go
 
update: So the suspected caliper does seem to of ceased up. Not only that but the bracket which the 2 slide pins also has a problem. One out of the two pins has ceased into the bracket and will not come out for sh*t. Tried putting it in a vice hammering and its just stuck in there. Looks like a new caliper or a new pair of calipers and a new bracket and pins. Going to get refurbed calipers. Where is the best place for this and to get a bracket? I heard JDM autotech is decent?
 
After a bit more reading on this forum other people have had problems with caliper carriers (which i think is the correct term-enology not bracket) like I have with one of the pins ceased inside. The piston of the caliper does seem stiff but other people have mentioned I would probably need a wind tool on this is a its 10 years old any way. I took the disk off and its fine on the inside, even wear across the disk and the pad put on the outside its scored (refer to my pic) and the outside pad has barely any wear on it compared to the other pad on the inside which could indicate that the ceased slide pin in the carrier is the problem not the piston of the caliper?
 
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