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Hello folks
I thought I'd write a review of the combined benefit of Buddyclub Roll Centre Adjusters, a Tegiwa rack raiser and Superpro caster increase bushes. Id' never fitted any of the parts before on any previous Civic, so I had no idea how they would affect the car. I was also quite dubious about spending around £350 on unknown modifications.
I'll break the review down into a few sections
SOURCING
I sourced the Buddyclubs in nearly new condition, so can't comment on where's best to buy these. The rack raiser and caster bushes came to me via Rob @ Area Motorsport as his price was very competitive. I'd recommend maybe pricing the whole lot from Tegiwa if they have a seasonal sale on (Xmas time). Also worth noting now is a good time to change your rack slider as it's an extra 2 minute job whilst the rack centre is apart.
FITTING
My Buddclubs came fitted into steering knuckles, so I didn't have to press them in. The big difficulty here is in removing your hubs/knuckles. The driveshaft nut is a bitch. I used a 36mm socket on a 3/4" drive breaker bar, having pre-heated the nut and it wouldn't move. The best method here, by far, is to use a high-end rattle gun to shift the nut. Snap On 18v gun made absolute mincemeat of it, undoing it in half a second!
The rack raiser can again be tricky, as you need to remove your steering arms from the rack centre, as they obscure the bolts that hold the rack raiser to the rack itself. There are tools for removing these arms (called inner tie rod removal tools) or a crows foot spanner of 29mm would do the job. I ended up cheating and cutting them off with a disc cutter as I was changing the arms and the rack bracket anyway. Once the steering arms are off, simply crack off the two bolts holding it to the rack. Now is the time to change or at least inspect your rack slider, it's just behind the rubber boot. I cut one metal retaining clip off the end of the boot, slid it back, swapped the slider for a Project K one, then refitted with a large zip tie.
The caster bushes require removal of the lower arm, which isn't too tricky. You can then press out the old bushes using a press - although most cheaper presses don't have the "reach" to hold the arm properly and access the bush. A large garage press is often needed - your local mechanic should be happy to do it for a few quid on the side, it's not hard. You could also try burning them out if you've got patience. Be sure that the metal collars around the rubber bushes are removed too, use a hacksaw to make two cuts in them and then chisel them out. Your bare lower arms could now be painted or powdercoated, now is the time! The new bushes require lubrication (supplied) to go in, and are aligned using paper templates supplied with the kit, to give the correct caster angle.
THE RESULT
After having my geometry set by Grinspeed, I took the car for a spirited drive down my local "mad mile" - a country road full of cambers, compressions and turns. I was expecting an improvement, but wasn't prepared for this. Wow! There is a massive difference in how composed the car is over bumps and dips in the road, it literally seems unphased by virtually all changes in surface. Whereas before I'd be fighting it, correcting it etc it's now much, much more steady. I'd put this down to the caster bushes (caster = steering self-centres) and the rack raiser (less bump steer). Definitely a very worthy upgrade if you enjoy driving on country roads!
In other words - it's made as much of a difference as going from standard suspension to coilovers. Perhaps in a slightly more subtle way, but the overall driving experience is much better! More refined, more stable, more flowing. If the car could talk, it was like it was saying "it's cool, go faster if you want mate... I've got this". Very confidence inspiring!
I'm on track on Monday, so I'll give some feedback on a fast, smooth, flowing circuit like Donnington Park. Previously I noticed an unsettling "notch" or "hump" in my steering on fast corners, I'm told the roll centre adjusters will kill this!
Thanks for reading
I thought I'd write a review of the combined benefit of Buddyclub Roll Centre Adjusters, a Tegiwa rack raiser and Superpro caster increase bushes. Id' never fitted any of the parts before on any previous Civic, so I had no idea how they would affect the car. I was also quite dubious about spending around £350 on unknown modifications.
I'll break the review down into a few sections
SOURCING
I sourced the Buddyclubs in nearly new condition, so can't comment on where's best to buy these. The rack raiser and caster bushes came to me via Rob @ Area Motorsport as his price was very competitive. I'd recommend maybe pricing the whole lot from Tegiwa if they have a seasonal sale on (Xmas time). Also worth noting now is a good time to change your rack slider as it's an extra 2 minute job whilst the rack centre is apart.
FITTING
My Buddclubs came fitted into steering knuckles, so I didn't have to press them in. The big difficulty here is in removing your hubs/knuckles. The driveshaft nut is a bitch. I used a 36mm socket on a 3/4" drive breaker bar, having pre-heated the nut and it wouldn't move. The best method here, by far, is to use a high-end rattle gun to shift the nut. Snap On 18v gun made absolute mincemeat of it, undoing it in half a second!
The rack raiser can again be tricky, as you need to remove your steering arms from the rack centre, as they obscure the bolts that hold the rack raiser to the rack itself. There are tools for removing these arms (called inner tie rod removal tools) or a crows foot spanner of 29mm would do the job. I ended up cheating and cutting them off with a disc cutter as I was changing the arms and the rack bracket anyway. Once the steering arms are off, simply crack off the two bolts holding it to the rack. Now is the time to change or at least inspect your rack slider, it's just behind the rubber boot. I cut one metal retaining clip off the end of the boot, slid it back, swapped the slider for a Project K one, then refitted with a large zip tie.
The caster bushes require removal of the lower arm, which isn't too tricky. You can then press out the old bushes using a press - although most cheaper presses don't have the "reach" to hold the arm properly and access the bush. A large garage press is often needed - your local mechanic should be happy to do it for a few quid on the side, it's not hard. You could also try burning them out if you've got patience. Be sure that the metal collars around the rubber bushes are removed too, use a hacksaw to make two cuts in them and then chisel them out. Your bare lower arms could now be painted or powdercoated, now is the time! The new bushes require lubrication (supplied) to go in, and are aligned using paper templates supplied with the kit, to give the correct caster angle.
THE RESULT
After having my geometry set by Grinspeed, I took the car for a spirited drive down my local "mad mile" - a country road full of cambers, compressions and turns. I was expecting an improvement, but wasn't prepared for this. Wow! There is a massive difference in how composed the car is over bumps and dips in the road, it literally seems unphased by virtually all changes in surface. Whereas before I'd be fighting it, correcting it etc it's now much, much more steady. I'd put this down to the caster bushes (caster = steering self-centres) and the rack raiser (less bump steer). Definitely a very worthy upgrade if you enjoy driving on country roads!
In other words - it's made as much of a difference as going from standard suspension to coilovers. Perhaps in a slightly more subtle way, but the overall driving experience is much better! More refined, more stable, more flowing. If the car could talk, it was like it was saying "it's cool, go faster if you want mate... I've got this". Very confidence inspiring!
I'm on track on Monday, so I'll give some feedback on a fast, smooth, flowing circuit like Donnington Park. Previously I noticed an unsettling "notch" or "hump" in my steering on fast corners, I'm told the roll centre adjusters will kill this!
Thanks for reading
