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Running without front arb

Kevin85

Kevin85

Messages
138
Anyone experimented with removing their arb?

My spring rates are F:450 R:560lb/in, are they stiff enough to even consider running without a front arb?
 
I've thought about it. But I've read that running a stiffer front roll bar can improve handling without inducing understeer on the EP3. I would think without one would make the front far too soft. More suited to wet/low grip conditions.
I know the French car boys remove the front arb on their track cars. Makes the car more prone to going tripod into corners.
 
More information is needed I think.

The reason I'm even considering it, isn't to make the car 'better', I'm trying to fit a gnarly manifold and I'm having clearance issues. If the arb doesn't do much at these spring levels, I can do without.
 
Will a JDM roll bar not clear the manifold? The front spring rate you have isn't that stiff. Works out to be a 8kg/mm? You'd want at least 10kg or 12kg springs up front. Then you'll need 16kg rear to bring back the balance. Even then I still think you'll get too much roll up front.
It depends on your application. Road? Track? Drag?
 
When I was talking to Maz @ HondR a little while ago, he was saying that changing OEM to Progress front roll bar made a big difference and gave great sharp turn in.

It's one of those things that's an individual's preference. I took the front roll bar off my old car, made it better handling wise, less understeer, but I found putting the power down was a little harder.
 
The car is a dc5r, so it has a jdm arb. There's no bar that would fit over the manifold. I need one that goes from mount to mount, without the hump.

I agree with you, that I'll get too much roll. I just wanted to see if anyone had experimented with it, as I know it's common in other circles. 8kg is right, they feel a lot stiffer tbh. Track is where I want it performing at its best.
 
From what I understand, it's an ex Dynamics manifold from the btcc DC5's.

DSC_0443.jpg

DSC_0441.jpg
 
Why not just save yourself the hassle and get a DC or Tegiwa one and be done with it?

The BTCC DC5's suspension will have been nothing like you have on a road car.
 
Because this will flow better, and I already own it. It will take more work getting it fitted, but the results will be better. Even if I don't see fantastic results straight off the bat, it has lots of scope for future engine modifications. I had a Tegiwa manifold, and sold it before I fit it when I found out it was a blatant TODA copy. I'm not loaded or on a hippy crusade, but I refuse to help lazy companies that just want to ride other people's rnd and massively undercut them. Two-bit companies copying HOTSHOT SR20(where I've come from) manifolds killed HOTSHOT, and then there were no more advancements in design, because nobody wanted to put the rnd effort/cost in to it. That's a whole other topic though. ;p

As for suspension, you're right, but the only piece of the suspension that's 'in the way' is the arb. I have enough clearance below the manifold to run a straight across bar, someone else might have done the same thing.. I can't be the first idiot who wants more space where the arb humps over the exhaust.
 
I think you would gain less by running without a front ARB than you would gain by running that manifold compared to a TODA item.
 
You'll probably find you won't make anymore power with that manifold compared to say Tegiwa/Toda. If anything you might make a little LESS power as that manifold is designed for a high spec built race engine. It'll flow too much for your basic bolt ons and mild cams.
 
Well, that's what I'm going to find out.. You don't know the spec of this manifold, you're just guessing from a few shitty photos.

The engine this manifold came from isn't nearly as gnarly as the previous factory built engines during the supertouring era, it's much closer to our engines. No itb, wet sump, limits on internal engine component weights, valve sizes are the same, ports were only lightly worked, but what am I saying, you already know all that.

Thanks all the same for your future predictions and choosing my cams and internals for me. Could you send me a spec list so I don't have to bother researching. Better yet, I'll just buy all of the parts you've got on your car. Why try anything new?
 
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