• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

speaker adapter/sizes?

bowman

bowman

Messages
594
Ive been lookin into upgrading the speakers in my EP3, and was lookin at some of the adapters needed

On caraudiosecurity.com it says that I need this one for the rear:
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/10180.html

And this one for the front:
http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/10181.html



So this says that its 13cm speakers for the front, and 16.5 for the rear??????? is this right or have they just got them the wrong way round???





and also, whats best to get.... im only planning on upgrading the front speakers, (maybe put a tweater in the mirror covers aswell).... so would you recommend coaxial or components???
I dont know the difference between them apart from coaxial have inbuilt tweeters?? and components come with seperate?


thanks for the help guys... im sure this has been asked alot :)
 
The stock speakers are both 6 inch. I used Alpine Type R 6.5 inch speakers in mine front and rear. An adaptor comes with the type R speakers which screws straight into the standard holes on the car with no mods on the rear. If you use coax speakers this size then you will have to shave the adaptor bracket down and also the back of the speaker grille panel to get them to fit properly. If you use component 6.5 speakers and mount the tweeter some else then no mods needed on the bracket or the grille, just need to mount the tweeter somewhere.

[FONT=&quot]On the front 5inch is the easiest option because you can buy spacer mounts that are made to fit and everything should go together nicely. If you do what I did and go for 6.5inch and make your own spacer mounts from MDF, then a ring of 165mm out diameter and spacing depth of 25mm should clear the magnet from hitting the door without cutting it about. You can then bolt the MDF mount to the door though the holes left by the original speaker clips with a large washer on the back to hold the assembly in place. Then you don’t have to drill any new holes in the metalwork and everything is completely reversible. I’d also use stainless steel bolts, washers and nylock nuts to stop any corrosion. Dynamatting the back of the spacers also helps seal to the door and keep the water out. Also you will have to cut the door cards around the back of the speaker grille to give more room for the larger speaker size[/FONT].
 
Paul has covered it pretty well.

Personally, I wouldn't waste money on rear speakers, spend more on the fronts or put it towards the headunit or amp.
 
thanks Paul... pretty much exactly what i needed to know :)

wasnt gonna bother with the rear's like... seems pointless when im in the front!! :)



but the fronts do sound better than rears... so if they are the same size could i not upgrade the fronts, and then move the originals into the rears???

and if i was gonna get a pair of those Alpines, would i need to run them through an amp or would the headunit be able to power them off the 52W?
im guessing an amp would sound better?? or just it just make them reach their full potential or actually create a better sound aswell??



thanks guys
 
Paul did you buy the Alpine Type R's as coaxial or component??? i found both when searching for them :)



just found a pair of tweeters in my cupboard aswell i bought for a car bout 4 years ago :)
 
You will never get any decent quality running from a headunit, an amp is almost essential if you like your car audio.
 
Yes I got the coax for the rear but had to face off the mounts by about 4mm and then the backs of the grilles by about another 2.5/3mm. It was tricky but I'm fortunate to have a milling machine to do the job. I also used the mill to make my front spacers and then spray painted them black to finish off the job. While I was doing it I noticed quite a lot of moisture gets into the door by dripping off the edge of the window. To that end I think Honda designed the front door speaker aperture with a rolled sill round it to keep water off the speaker and to strengthen the door. This is why I used the Alpines, because they have a small magnet on the back and will fit in the doors without cutting them about if you make a spacer.

See this page http://www.alpine-electronics.co.uk/products/type-r-speakers.html

SPR-60C, SPR-60

In my opinion having rears really makes a difference, There’s too much base otherwise. Most people though don't bother because then you have to run two amps if you want a sub. That then means you need a gauge 4 power cable to run up the side of the car. This is about as far as i've got with mine and I'm sure running that cable through that grommet behind the glove box invoves lots of fun and games!!!
 
Also forgot to metion. The tweeters you get with the alpines won't fit the Honda tweeter pods they are too large. For mine I got a set of Focal tweeters and then slightly skimmed the holes of the pods untill I got a snug fit. It looks ace too.:lol:
 
ive got an image uploader script on my site if you wanna use that.... its really easy to use and gives you a link to it once uploaded. http://uploads.dodart.net

then jus put it inside
url]



:D
 
Okay here are some pics as promised to show you what I’ve done so far.

[FONT=&quot]Focal front door tweeter will fit standard Honda pods if you mod them slightly by enlarging the speaker hole.

[/FONT]
TweeterFrontDoor.jpg


Next The Alpine Type R 6.5 front door speaker [FONT=&quot]which needs a spacer and can be bolted on through the existing holes. and will fit without cutting the metalwork. Just need to trim back the door cards a bit.

[/FONT]
WooferFrontDoor.jpg
[FONT=&quot]

Next the rear coax which will fit using the mounts supplied by Alpine with a little modding. You need to trim off a few mm to help clear the centre of the speaker from the grille.

[/FONT]
RearGrilleFaceView.jpg
[FONT=&quot]

I milled the backs of the grilles to give even more clearance which can be seen by the white-ish area.

[/FONT]
CoaxBehindGrilleRear.jpg

Here's what it looks like when the grille is refitted.

Hope this helps!!![FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
 
Missed this out but here's the rear coax behind the grille, you can just see a bit of the mount from behind the speaker. It's a little rough but the best I could do when milling plastic. I think I took off around 3-5mm, I can't fully remember.

CoaxRear.jpg
 
What about mounting depth in behind the speaker? How much clearance do you have? I'm looking at some rear coax's with a 45mm mounting depth... Sound ok?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top