Suspension for beginners

[Chris.]

Suspension

It is arguably the most important modification. It won't matter how much power you are getting in your car if you can't control the car properly.

Geometry tuning is also the cheapest mod too!

It seems that a lot of CTRs have incorrect geometry settings which can make the car spin very easily. Get it checked using a proper 4 wheel alignment centre. 2 wheel is not enough.

Some definitions:

Caster angle - this is the angle of the steering axis tilt.

Camber angle - this is vertical splay angle of the wheel.

Toe angle - longitudinal splay of wheels.

Unfortunately the CTR's suspension is not easily adjusted. Of all the above factors, only toe is adjustable. Camber can be adjusted with the use of camber bolts.

There are no ideal settings - it all depends on your driving style and the roads you drive on. Satisfactory results can be obtained by altering the camber and toe.

Camber dictates the vertical splay of the wheel. Negative camber means the bottom of the wheel pokes out. Positive camber causes the bottom of the wheel to tuck int.

Negative camber improves the contact patch when cornering. Too much can reduce traction in a straight line and increase tyre wear at the inner shoulders.

Toe angle describes the longitudinal angle of the wheel at its leading edge, closest to the front of the car.

Toe-out splays the wheels outwards. At the front this helps to increase turn in sharpness but can make the front end more lively when cruising.

Toe-in increases cruising stability and dulls turn-in.

At the rear toe-out helps the car oversteer and reduces back end stability. Toe in increases stability. FWD tend to be setup with rear toe-in to stop snap oversteer.

So armed with this knowledge you should be able to decide how you want your car setup. You'll just have to experiment. Remember that more extreme alignment setups will decrease tyre life.

The majority of people go for the "fast road setup".

The settings are:

1 degree neg camber all round
1mm toe in at rear
1mm toe out at front

 

[jocksaway]

suspension

where around doncaster could i have this done and how much is cost ? ive just bought some 18 s for my car and was just gonna put some lowering springs on ? is this a no no ? thanx :? would anywhere that has a 4 wheel rolling road be able to do it ? :?

 

[HASNIC]

Re: suspension

where around doncaster could i have this done and how much is cost ? ive just bopught some 18 s for my car and was just gonna put some lowering springs on ? is this a no no ? thanx :?

Could pop over to TDi North in Warrington mate, aslong as the 18's aren't too wide then you'll have no issues with lowering it

 

[jocksaway]

springs

215/35/18s any idea of cost ? and is it a definate no no to lower without doin geometry ?

 

[TerryCTR]

Re: springs

215/35/18s any idea of cost ? and is it a definate no no to lower without doin geometry ?

Thats almost the correct profile 225/35 is better but you will lower no probs with they tyres anyways mate. You should sort out the geometry if your planning to lower regardless of what size of alloys your running - your car will handle like a ba*tard if you get the fast road set up

 

[jocksaway]

settings

the settings above what car is that for ? could i take these and have someone use them on my ep3 ctr ? :?

 

[SOates82]

ooo, Just seen this mate, try ADR Motorsport at chesterfield they will sort you out

 

[HASNIC]

ooo, Just seen this mate, try ADR Motorsport at chesterfield they will sort you out

Heard good things about these guys as well, and yes those settings above will be find for a CTR mate

 

[ian]

Re: settings

... could i take these and have someone use them on my ep3 ctr ? :?

Yes. As has been said though, you could go for a more aggressive setup if you wished, depending on your driving style and how long you want your tyres to last. :wink:

I have Tein springs and a fast road set up on my EP3, (done by TGM in Fleet,) and its well worth doing imo. 8) You will need adjustable rear camber arms, (about £130 ish) as well as front camber bolts, (about £15,) plus cash for set up time at the going labour rate.

 

[jocksaway]

springs

thanx everyone for your replies .. has someone a number for adr in chesterfield ?

 

[HASNIC]

http://www.adrmotorsport.com

 

[jocksaway]

springs

thanks will give them a call

 

[Mark Type R]

Suspension

The majority of people go for the "fast road setup".

The settings are:

1 degree neg camber all round
2mm toe in at rear
1mm toe out at front

Looks like im having the FRSU for my Teg at Christmas. Is this the best setup for it?

Also where's the best place to get my bolts and thingy's from?

Thanks

 

[Chris.]

Looks like im having the FRSU for my Teg at Christmas. Is this the best setup for it?

Also where's the best place to get my bolts and thingy's from?

Thanks

The best setup all depends on what you want from the car and what its main uses are. The above settings are the standard FRSU settings as a rule of thumb and are suited to most road cars. Unless you're doing a load of track work, then they will be ideal and they are what TGM will dial in if you don't specify a setting.

TGM can supply all the parts you will need.

 

[Mark Type R]

The best setup all depends on what you want from the car and what its main uses are. The above settings are the standard FRSU settings as a rule of thumb and are suited to most road cars. Unless you're doing a load of track work, then they will be ideal and they are what TGM will dial in if you don't specify a setting.

TGM can supply all the parts you will need.

Cheers Chris, its only going be A & B road use.

 

[Nigel EP3 05]

Hey everyone,

Im planning on taking my ep3 to the mechanic next week to fit in the ITG maxogen. I am also interested in doing some geometry settings one its in. Heard alot about the fast road setup. Hear in Malta our roads are quite rough though.

I am new to this mods therfore would appreciate any feedback on what would be a good setup form me. I do like to enjoy the car and push it, therfore i am looking for a setup where i push the car and at the same time get as much grip as possible. Maybe i could get upgraded springs? Forget coilovers as there is no point, especially with out roads. Not sure where to start?

Getting a new set of two Toyo T1 R's also as the back one are finishing. Maybe getting them 215/45/17 would help? Does grip improve on the ep3 if the width of the tires are slight larger in front?

Thanks guys

 

[Suits]

Hey everyone,

Im planning on taking my ep3 to the mechanic next week to fit in the ITG maxogen. I am also interested in doing some geometry settings one its in. Heard alot about the fast road setup. Hear in Malta our roads are quite rough though.

I am new to this mods therfore would appreciate any feedback on what would be a good setup form me. I do like to enjoy the car and push it, therfore i am looking for a setup where i push the car and at the same time get as much grip as possible. Maybe i could get upgraded springs? Forget coilovers as there is no point, especially with out roads. Not sure where to start?

Getting a new set of two Toyo T1 R's also as the back one are finishing. Maybe getting them 215/45/17 would help? Does grip improve on the ep3 if the width of the tires are slight larger in front?

Thanks guys

Hello,

Firstly, getting springs will stiffen up the car and give a more harsh/firm ride. Don't go for too low of drop if you are concerned about sacrificing ride quality.

-20mm will be fine, maybe look at the Eibach Sportlines or the Spoon springs for this sort of drop.

Couple this with a FRSU (Fast Road Set Up) and you will have a vast improvement in road holding and feel. You will get a much improved turn in and the car will feel much more planted. To go further again, add a few strut braces and this will stiffen teh car up further.

In regards to your tyre choice, in theory, yes, the wider your tyres, the more contact you have, but its minimal and I doubt you would be able to tell the difference.

On my CTR I have 215/40/17's in all corners. If you were to fit 215/45/17's you would be giving yourself that extra bit of sidewall to soften the ride and protect your alloys against pot holes. The only down side to this is appearance (personaly) and side tyre wall flex, where if you were being picky would take a snip off the handling of the car, but in the real world, again, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference.

So, if I were you, saying that you are worried about the roads in Malta, I would go for;

• Eibach/Spoon Springs.
• FRSU
• 215/45/17 Tyres x 4.

 

[Nigel EP3 05]

Hey Suits...thanks alot for you reply. I have T1's on all four corners right now, only the back need replacing. The front ones which im keeping are 205/45/17.

Think its better if i put the 205/45/17 at the back and put new ones 115/45/17 in the front right?

 

[Suits]

Think its better if i put the 205/45/17 at the back and put new ones 115/45/17 in the front right?

Ah, yeah I suppose, but like I said in the other post, its a very small difference.

 

[dotty]

Suspension

It is arguably the most important modification. It won't matter how much power you are getting in your car if you can't control the car properly.

Geomerty tuning is also the cheapest mod too!

It seems that a lot of CTRs have incorrect geometry settings which can make the car spin very easily. Get it checked using a proper 4 wheel alignment centre. 2 wheel is not enough.

Some definitions:

Caster angle - This is the angle of the steering axis tilt.

Camber angle- this is vertical splay angle of the wheel.

Toe angle - longitudinal splay of wheels.

Unfortunately, the CTRs suspension is not easily adjusted. Of all the above factors, only toe is adjustable. Camber can be adjusted with the use of camber bolts.

There are no ideal setttings - it all depends on your driving style and the roads you drive on. Satisfactory results can be obtained by altering the camber and toe.

Camber dictates the vertical splay of the wheel. Negative camber means the bottom of the wheel tucks out. Positive camber causes the bottom of the wheel to poke out.

Negative camber improves the contact patch when cornering. Too much can reduce traction in a straight line and increase tyre wear at the inner shoulders.

Toe angle describes the longitudinal angle of the wheel at its leading edge, closest to the front of the car

Toe-out splays the wheels outwards. At the front, this helps to increase turn in sharpness, but can make the front end more lively when cruising.
Toe-in increases cruising stability and dulls turn-in.

At the rear, toe-out helps the car oversteer and reduces back end stability. Toe in increases stability. FWD tend to be setup with rear toe-in to stop snap oversteer.

So armed with this knowledge, you should be able to decide how u want your car setup. You'll just have to experiment. Remember that more extreme alignment setups will decrease tyre life.

The majority of people go for the "fast road setup".

The settings are:

1 degree neg camber all round
2mm toe in at rear
1mm toe out at front

No text speak.