The_Moufle's track days '03 EP3

[The_Moufle]

Hey guys,

here it is a presentation of my Civic Type-R. I'm proud to present it here, because after all this is an English car, then i think it's make sense (UKDM rulz ! :lol

I use it mainly during track days here in France, but not fully dedicated to that because I have no space at home to store a car trailer (is that the good words ?), so i have to go to tracks by the road. This implies that i must keep this car pretty road legal (no full roll cage, ...).

I bought it a year ago already modified, but with many problems and an awfull driving trains setup . So, i did the required tuning and modifications for running it fine on tracks.

It remains some majors modifications to do, but i'm limited by the money for now, so i have to deal with that.

The main improvement to come will be a big brake kit, i thought first to adapt 4 pots Brembo calipers of Renault Megane 2 RS on HiSpec floating rotors with alloy bells, but I recently saw the TGM kit (that's that way I discovered this forum ), and i'm waiting TGM reply.

Currently, i'm starting to really love this car, since I found the good driving train setup, and since the ECU remap and the interior removal, the performance are really great.

In next few years, I have as a projet to come drive on UK race tracks during my vacations, mainly Brand Hatch (love it in Indy configuration), and Donington. But I have to setup things well, cause running far away from home is a bit complicated. I would love driving in SPA Francorchamps and the Nurburgring too

The tuning list :

Motor :
- CAI Injen V2
- RBC intake manifold + Hondata gasket
- Hondata K100, tuned by Piv : 244,8 hp@8148 rpm and 233,5 N.m@5991 rpm (i think you heard about him, he his an expatried French guy who is now a reputed engine injection tuner in England, he was previously the creator of Artech Tuning)
- InVidia Race Header v1
- SRS exhaust + Fireball SRS
- Innovative engine mounts with 75A polyurethane
- Clockwise Motion oil sump baffle

Transmission :
- MFactory LSD differential

Brakes :
- Stainless steel brake lines
- Carbone Lorraine RC6 pads front and rear
- Front EBC treated GrN discs, rear drilled EBC discs
- RBF600 brake fluid

Driving trains :
- BC Racing BR coilovers (with wrong springs rate, 6Kg/mm front and 8kg/mm rear, so i have setup a bit more of spring constraint to compensate, specially rear)
- Energy front lower arms silent blocs
- JDM sway bars front and rear
- Uniball inverted steering knuckles
- OMP front strut bar
- Eibach adjustable rear upper arms
- Eibach camber bolts
- Eight Speed subframe locking collars
- Federal 595 RS-R tires for road use / Michelin SA20 19/62/17 rain slicks and Michelin S9B 20/61/17 slicks for track use
- Wheels alignement : caster 3°45', front camber -3°15', rear camber -1°50', front toe -1.5mm, rear toe 1.5mm

Intérior :
- RRS steering wheel
- RRS 4 points RRS harness (driver)
- Fiber driver seat
- Almost all plastics and isolants have been removed
- 4 points Wiechers Version B roll cage

Recent maintenance :
- Refection of the front calipers (before each track day because of the heat of the RC6) + new calipers pistons
- Bake fluid renewal with RBF600
- New front BC Racing shocks plates
- New front BC Racing cardridges
- New front wheels bearings
- New suspension knuckles
- Wheel alignement (three in less a year , damned McPherson !)
- New front left wheel hub (imported from UK )
- New inverted steering knuckles
- Tuning of the ride height
- New Catrol Edge 10W60 oil (changed before each track day because i have no oil radiator and oil burn very fast)
- New MTF3 transmission oil (changed each 3 track days)
- New dust seals for the rear calipers and rubbers of slide pins
- Coilovers inspection and tuning of the springs constraint to compensate bad springs rates
- New fuel filter
- New NGK sparks plugs
- Air filter cleaning
- new Innovative engine mounts with 75A polyurethane (mad!!)
- New after market TPS (and surely not the last one... before installation of a B-series TPS)

To come soon I hope :lol:
- Front big brake kit : 4 pots calipers + 330x28 rotors mounted on alloy bells
- Battery relocalisation to the rear
- Oil pression and temperatures gauges

Some pics of the Civic (take this, 56K :lol:

And some videos :

+ From Lurcy-Lévis race track, last week end, with a very nice weather :

[video=youtube;Udg02uKpGiI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udg02uKpGiI[/video]

+ From Magny-Cours F1 race track, a month ago, it was rainy and i discovered this track so not so confidant :

[video=youtube;dmTF0gy5l8M]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmTF0gy5l8M[/video]

+ From 'La Bresse' race track, the nearest from me and my personnal Time Attack track. I'm very impatient to go to in few weeks, hoping i will improve my best times :

[video=youtube;aDDAhfJKfqU]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDDAhfJKfqU[/video]

+ On the dyno two months ago, during the remap by Piv, scoring a nice 245 horsepowers :smt047 :

[video=youtube;55wVL4bIr5w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55wVL4bIr5w[/video]

Here you can follow my Youtube channel, all comments will be appreciated : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPm6nlNkAHA_q6ZNsrApDWQ

 

[Hazz]

Great spec. Enjoyed the videos!!

10w60 is a heavy oil for a k20, especially with only 56k on the clock. Most on here use a 5w40 or 5w30 changed every 6k miles.

 

[The_Moufle]

Great spec. Enjoyed the videos!!

10w60 is a heavy oil for a k20, especially with only 56k on the clock. Most on here use a 5w40 or 5w30 changed every 6k miles.

Glad you like the videos Concerning the oil, you use only *W30 or *W40 for track use ? For road yes it is ok, but on track with this grades, lubrification will fail during long sessions, no ?

 

[Loxy]

Very nice setup!

I've been recommended 10w60 before for track days and when my car was boosted. It copes better with the higher temps. Like you mentioned though, an oil cooler radiator would help solve that issue.

 

[Hazz]

I've never ran a heavier oil for a trackday myself. As Loxy said, heavy oils for boosted motors but I've not personally heard of using heavier oils for trackdays in N/A cars.

I'm not saying it's wrong, just that I've never heard of anyone else doing similar before. I'll ask around as you've got me curious now!!

 

[The_Moufle]

I've never ran a heavier oil for a trackday myself. As Loxy said, heavy oils for boosted motors but I've not personally heard of using heavier oils for trackdays in N/A cars.

I'm not saying it's wrong, just that I've never heard of anyone else doing similar before. I'll ask around as you've got me curious now!!

During very high engine temperatures, a too thin oil film (cause too fluid, and non resistent to shearing) can eventually break with oil like 5W40. It could probably do the job anyway, but for the durability of the motor, 10W60 is a good choice from my opinion (and many trackday drivers here)

But resistance of the oil film is even more relative to the properties of an oil. Sometimes a *W30 is far better than a *W60, depending of the additives and the properties of the oil.

I saw a chart with oil comparative, and for my usage and budget, the Castrol EDGE 10W60 is a really good choice (best is Royal Purple, but too expensive for me).

 

[szybki]

Great car and great mods, i'd like to have some of them on my EP3...

I'm also using my ep3 for trackdays and I have some questions:
1. how do you know engine oil is overheating if you don't have oil temp/pressure gauges?
2. how did you get so big caster angle?
3. don't you have problem with tyre wear on the 'inner' side (big camber)
4. brakes - i'm fine with stock braking power, heat is the only problem - i'm thinking about some custom air cooling ducts (something similar to
http://www.amsperformance.com/instructions/AMS Brake Cooling Kit Install Instructions.pdf) - did you try this?
5. did you lower your car?

 

[The_Moufle]

1. how do you know engine oil is overheating if you don't have oil temp/pressure gauges?

You noticed well My engine oil is black after just one track day, so i assume it has burned. And beside of me, all of my mates running K20 without oil radiator take almost 140/150° after few laps (see also Best Motoring 'endurance challenge' in Tsukuba)

2. how did you get so big caster angle?

I have inverted front shocks plate, so instead of just tune camber, i can simulteanously tune camber and caster (so undissociable). Next modification could be DaVinci plates or Password JDM lower arm bearing. You can also move forward the engine subframe to gain a bit of caster (but it's not possible with hardened engine mounts cause you cannot move engine subframe freely anymore )

3. don't you have problem with tyre wear on the 'inner' side (big camber)

I'm not sure to understand, but i assume you mean that the tyres touchs the inner wheel arch because of camber ? With tyres in 2X5/45 it is OK, as well with slicks in 20/61/17, but not with 20/62/17 (i let you make the conversion in inches )

4. brakes - i'm fine with stock brakes, heat is the only problem - i'm thinking about some custom air cooling ducts (something similar to http://www.amsperformance.com/instructions/AMS Brake Cooling Kit Install Instructions.pdf) - did you try this?

I thought too that the brakes was fine, despite of the overheat problem. But since I go with a friend in his EP3 with an AP Racing BBK, I can say OEM brakes are not so good :lol:

Concerning the air cooling dusts, it's the next modification that i'm going to make. Thank you for the PDF

 

[szybki]

You noticed well My engine oil is black after just one track day, so i assume it has burned. And beside of me, all of my mates running K20 without oil radiator take almost 140/150° after few laps (see also Best Motoring 'endurance challenge' in Tsukuba)

I couldn't find enduro challenge with EP3 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA2SQpe7GAA - but in this video ITR is one of the cars that did NOT have issues with oil temp. Anyway, it all depends on track, driving style, etc. In my case brakes are usually first element to cool down.

I have inverted front shocks plate, so instead of just tune camber, i can simulteanously tune camber and caster (so undissociable). Next modification could be DaVinci plates or Password JDM lower arm bearing. You can also move forward the engine subframe to gain a bit of caster (but it's not possible with hardened engine mounts cause you cannot move engine subframe freely anymore )

Hmm..I don't understand..you're taking about camber plates? what excatly do you mean by 'inverting' - left plate is on the right side, and right plate on the left side?

I'm not sure to understand, but i assume you mean that the tyres touchs the inner wheel arch because of camber ? With tyres in 2X5/45 it is OK, as well with slicks in 20/61/17, but not with 20/62/17 (i let you make the conversion in inches )

No no, I was talking about tire wear - because of camber inner part of tire wears faster (http://www.eastcoastalloys.com/4-wheel-laser-alignment.html - 'camber wear'). This is how one of my tires looked like after last trackday:

I thought too that the brakes was fine, despite of the overheat problem. But since I go with a friend in his EP3 with an AP Racing BBK, I can say OEM brakes are not so good :lol:

Well...AP Racing would be cool, but it's definitely over my budget...I can get whole truck of OEM rotors and CL brake pads for this...
I'm thinking about some custom BBK (based on Honda Legend / Acura RL calipers and rotors or Alfa Romeo Brembo calipers)


Oh, and last question - did you lower your car? How much?

 

[The_Moufle]

I couldn't find enduro challenge with EP3 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA2SQpe7GAA - but in this video ITR is one of the cars that did NOT have issues with oil temp. Anyway, it all depends on track, driving style, etc. In my case brakes are usually first element to cool down.

Yes indeed, you're right. Maybe i just remembered that N/A Honda engines heats a lot (as the NSX does) But anyway, when I flush the oil of my K20 and I see it is black as hell, i cannot stop thinking that i need an oil radiator. But you're right again, without oil temperature gauge, it's just assumptions

Hmm..I don't understand..you're taking about camber plates? what excatly do you mean by 'inverting' - left plate is on the right side, and right plate on the left side?

Yes, left camber plate to the right and right to the left. Here you can see what i mean :

No no, I was talking about tire wear - because of camber inner part of tire wears faster (http://www.eastcoastalloys.com/4-wheel-laser-alignment.html - 'camber wear'). This is how one of my tires looked like after last trackday

Well, no i have'nt this problem because i run slick tyres. With this enormous grip, tyre will always be used flat or on the exterior, even with a lot of camber.

I'm thinking about some custom BBK (based on Honda Legend / Acura RL calipers and rotors or Alfa Romeo Brembo calipers)

Yes, initially that's what I want to do. Adapting Renault Megane 2 RS Brembo calipers with 315x28 HiSpec rotors. But, I heard some bad things about HiSpec rotors, and I'm not an engineer after all, so i'm afraid screwing something and just loosing money at the end...

That's why i prefer now go with a plug and play kit. But you're right, serious kit are so expensives

Oh, and last question - did you lower your car? How much?

That's a quick question but resulting in a long answer :lol:

Front is about ~5 centimeters lower, it's too much for OEM suspensions design, but i have inverted knuckles allowing no variation of the bump steer (steering rods are flat) and the huge camber compensate camber variation during suspension compression (but DC5 lower arms will be much better, i'm thinking about install them). The remaining problem is the angle of my current lower arms, almost flat, so again during suspension compression they aren't well aligned with engine subframe, and lateral forces apply to the shocks instead of chassis...

The rear is about 2.5 centimeters lower, i previously ran lower, but that was a mistake. With OEM arms bushings and my current springs rates (8Kg/mm), during suspensions compression, the rear drive train tend to get too much toe in, so the rear don't want to turn anymore, and tyres are used only onto the exterior. Currently, with only 2.5 centimeters lowers, it's much much better. And, furthermore, a difference of 2.5/3 cm ride height between front and rear is good for traction and turn in. Front is much impacted by load transfer, and front grip is better in that way

If you want to read more on the subject, have a look here : http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2639666

 

[szybki]

Thank you very much for all information! I know that EP3/DC5 shouldn't be lowered too much, mine is lowered so far by 2.5cm. I'm thinking about installing steering rack raiser (to flatten steering rods) and hardrace roll center adjusters (to properly align lower arms) and after that lower it a bit more.

How's MFactory LSD? I'd like to replace OEM JDM lsd with something 'stronger' - plate or wavetrac and i don't which one to choose (I've read good reviews of OS Gikens's plate lsd's, but it costs almost twice as much as wavetrac lsd)

 

[The_Moufle]

Thank you very much for all information! I know that EP3/DC5 shouldn't be lowered too much, mine is lowered so far by 2.5cm. I'm thinking about installing steering rack raiser (to flatten steering rods) and hardrace roll center adjusters (to properly align lower arms) and after that lower it a bit more.

How's MFactory LSD? I'd like to replace OEM JDM lsd with something 'stronger' - plate or wavetrac and i don't which one to choose (I've read good reviews of OS Gikens's plate lsd's, but it costs almost twice as much as wavetrac lsd)

You're welcome

2.5cm is just fine, and lower will be good with that you have mentionned.

MFactory's LSD is too violent on road and a bit weak on track (i believe i have the 1.5 way); i heard good things avout wavetrack.

 

[ADRi]

I really like your suspensions tuning knowledge.

As i asked to another user that also runs them, do you think J's/Buddyclub/Hardrace longer RCA are a good improvement to the car when lowering it a bit? How do this affect to the ep3 suspension?

 

[The_Moufle]

I really like your suspensions tuning knowledge.

Thanks, but this is not really my knowledge, just that I found when I searched for, and advices of people who knows what they talk about

As i asked to another user that also runs them, do you think J's/Buddyclub/Hardrace longer RCA are a good improvement to the car when lowering it a bit? How do this affect to the ep3 suspension?

Theorically , it is a good improvement, combined to other chassis fixes. But i don't have them, so I cannot speak by experience. Nevertheless, the two gains are :
- Restore OEM limited camber variation when suspension compressed (for lowered EP3, useless if you lower your car less than 4cm)
- Decrease suspension's compression in increasing the angle of the lower control arms (again, you must have a heavy lowered EP3)

I have heard bad things about Buddy Club RCA on the French CTR-Team forum, they destroy very quickly

 

[Rory.J]

good effort mate

 

[ADRi]

Thanks, but this is not really my knowledge, just that I found when I searched for, and advices of people who knows what they talk about



Theorically , it is a good improvement, combined to other chassis fixes. But i don't have them, so I cannot speak by experience. Nevertheless, the two gains are :
- Restore OEM limited camber variation when suspension compressed (for lowered EP3, useless if you lower your car less than 4cm)
- Decrease suspension's compression in increasing the angle of the lower control arms (again, you must have a heavy lowered EP3)

I have heard bad things about Buddy Club RCA on the French CTR-Team forum, they destroy very quickly

Thanks.

I'm also registered on the french forum, but as i don't speak french i don't participate too much.

Btw, i have the Hardrace ones to install, but my mechanic told me that because of the ep3 geometry suspension, they aren't needed compared to other cars such as my old ek.

Need to do more research and try to understand why he's saying this.