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this is annoying me now

gbl

Messages
56
So I was getting a knock from the from left and a whistling from the front right. The new anti roll bar link I had put in wasn't tightened correctly so that got sorted knock has gone. The mechanic said he couldn't hear a whistling (obviously didn't drive the car too much when he took it for a run) he said there is no problem with the wheel bearing or brakes. He did however mention that my tires are crap (falken ZE914) so I am wondering could it be the tires? they are upto the marker meaning they need replaced.

one of the tires is new the rest are old

Any thoughts?
 
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Could be but you said the mechanic said no problem with brakes.

Sounds daft but try rotating the tyres. The tread blocks can wear stepped rather than flat which causes odd noises.
 
Could be but you said the mechanic said no problem with brakes.

Sounds daft but try rotating the tyres. The tread blocks can wear stepped rather than flat which causes odd noises.

I am going to do that today. 2 weeks ago my back left tire exploded when I hit a pot hole through wrea (cumbria) and I had to get a new one put on with a tow truck that came out. I am just wondering whether the back tire is imbalanced with the 3 older tires which at about 14 months old and are shortly going to be on there legal limit indicators. I was always told that you should swap two on the same side.
 
I was always told that you should swap two on the same side.

No, that's wrong. If you have to only change two it should be two on the same axle, i.e. two fronts or two rears.

Your worst two tyres should also go on the front. Rationale being that the average driver can save an understeer moment easier than an oversteer moment.
 
so with the back left being done, should I have had the back right done? could there be a load difference?
 
It's independent rear suspension so there isn't an axle as such to load up but it can make a big difference on the ABS though.

And yes, it would be another rear.
 
just went down to the local tire place to show them my tires at the back, as I noticed stepping on them. It looks as if the camber has been out although I did have an anti roll bar link issue. They suggested I need new tires and should go for decent ones. They quoted me £90 per tire or £72 for some falken 914s, fitted and balanced for some p zero neros. They suggested that an alignment might help but being the back isn't adjustable then it will only help a little.
 
Get it set up by someone properly with rear camber arms which are adjustable and front camber bolts. You'll be able to get it spot on then.

Where abouts in the world are you?

Then get new tyres on it
 
Get it set up by someone properly with rear camber arms which are adjustable and front camber bolts. You'll be able to get it spot on then.

Where abouts in the world are you?

Then get new tyres on it

I am in Cumbria, Penrith to be exact.
 
Not that far then. You could take it to Grinspeed or TDi-north for a proper geometry setup.

You might think it costs, but if it saves you chewing through tyres...

Or you could buy the bits and get a garage with a 4 wheel laser alignment machine to fit them and adjust them to the settings in the sticky at the top of the suspension section.
 
Not that far then. You could take it to Grinspeed or TDi-north for a proper geometry setup.

You might think it costs, but if it saves you chewing through tyres...

Or you could buy the bits and get a garage with a 4 wheel laser alignment machine to fit them and adjust them to the settings in the sticky at the top of the suspension section.

what sort of price would I be looking at?
 
Am I actually going to need parts? I was just under the impression I needed the alignment done.
 
Am I actually going to need parts? I was just under the impression I needed the alignment done.

Well you said this:

...It looks as if the camber has been out although I did have an anti roll bar link issue... They suggested that an alignment might help but being the back isn't adjustable then it will only help a little.

and I gave you the solution to what you had said:

Get it set up by someone properly with rear camber arms which are adjustable and front camber bolts. You'll be able to get it spot on then.

Where abouts in the world are you?

Then get new tyres on it

If you just want alignment, then anyone with an alignment setup can do it.

If you want the camber sorting so it doesn't happen again, you need to add the bits above to allow for camber adjustment that isn't there from the factory. Then you want it adjusting to the proper settings to maximise grip while reducing tyre wear.
 
I understand now, as you can probably tell I know sod all about cars apart from how to drive them. I can just about do the oil and change a wheel if I have to bit thats about the limit of my knowledge.
 
I know I am gonna sound like a tool but aren't those dme arms etc for when the car has been lowered? mine is stock
 
The rear camber arms on the car are fixed, so you can't change the camber on a car as it comes from the factory.

If you add adjustable camber arms, you can then adjust the camber as you can lengthen and shorten the length of the arm accordingly.

Doesn't matter if it has standard springs or lowering springs, you still need camber arms to adjust the rear camber.

Same story with the bolts on the front.
 
Sorry Loxy I seem to be messing you about but I have got my definitions wrong, it's actually toe that I am getting the tires are waring from the inside out. Would you still recommend I get the adjustment kit? Someone said to me that the toe is adjustable nut camber isn't.
 
Toe is adjustable on the back from the nut yes. It's obviously adjustable on the front from the track rod ends.

It's up to you. It's worth getting the camber set-up correctly from a handling point of view as it drastically improves grip and predictability, however if you're just after toe, then probably not. :lol:
 
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