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Type R number 2 - My NHB EP3

jimbodeeni

jimbodeeni

Messages
3,675
My 06 Ep3
Update June 15

Current mods are:

ABP Eibach 30mm springs
Eibach camber bolts
DME camber arms
Obligatory FRSU
Interior door grabs in matt black finish
Double din head unit
Removed inlet manifold cover and bonnet lining
V2 style induction kit (just for a bit of noise until I get a decent induction kit)
Soon to add more!!
Now at 80000 miles (4000 in two months, depressing)

Original post:
Finally after much searching I Picked up my second EP3.
I had to sell my last one late last year in order to purchase a house.
Missed it massively and have been eager to get another since.

I didn't bother with a build thread last time but figured I will this time.
Quick picture on the way home from picking it up.
I must say I forgot how much the ep3 puts a smile on my face when driving.




It has done 76000 miles, Full service history and generally in great condition minus a few scratches and a small parking dent which I will get removed.

Car came with the following minor mods, it is otherwise standard

Skunk2 gear knob
Leather Gaiter (will be up for sale shortly)
Leather 'Velcro on' door handle wraps (either sell or give away)
Mugen silver oil cap
Kenwood double din with USB input / Bluetooth phone connection
Ferrodo DS2500 pads on the rear (not sure on the fronts yet)

I have a few parts left over from my last ep3 which will be going on.

But my short term plans are to get it looking like it just came off the line, then get handling, brakes, few minor cosmetic mods and finally some bolt ons and a remap.

It was serviced 3000 miles ago, but for peace of mind I will replace oil and filter so I know what's in there and probably gearbox oil again just to keep me happy.

I had a rather scary moment on the way back trying to keep up with the VX - major brake fade after a few sharp corners and nearly went into the back of it.
Pads seem fine and have loads of life but the pedal went spongy and nothing really happened..
Im guessing the best fix will be some Motul RBF 600 and TGM braided lines.
If the pads are blueprints or something cheap I will swap them for DS2500.

Also the Tyres are Avon ZZ5 and im really not keen on them, so will wait while brakes are done first then get some new tyres.
I tried Hankook Ventus Evo V12 on the last one and they were awful, Didn't get on with the RE050's. Liked the Rainsport 2's but want something better in the dry this time,
So will get some Eagle F2 Asymmetric on.
 
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Good to see the search paid off!

If you're changing the brake fluid and lines, you may as well rebuild the callipers too, the piston and seal kits are worth every penny. You won't believe the difference it makes. The Eagle F1s are a good choice.

Wtf are velcro-on door handle wraps?!
 
jimbothemagnificent said:
Good to see the search paid off!

If you're changing the brake fluid and lines, you may as well rebuild the callipers too, the piston and seal kits are worth every penny. You won't believe the difference it makes. The Eagle F1s are a good choice.

Wtf are velcro-on door handle wraps?!
Click to expand...

Where did you get your kit from? I have seen the refurb kits on tegiwa.

The lines and fluid change will be done by my mechanic as Im not too comfortable with the whole bleeding scenario.

Not sure how I would get around that? if I am refurbing them im not sure how I would get the car to my mechanic.

Ill put the Velcro door handle jobbies up in the for sale section this weekend so you can see, basically just a piece of leather with red stitching that Velcros around the interior door handles. (nothing like the katana handles :rolleyes:)
He had them on because there is very slight wear the silver handle inserts which I will be refurbishing black anyway.
 
Picking a decent ep3 to start with for sensible money seems to be the issue these days so nicely done.
Agree with jimbo on refurbing the calipers as I've just been through this, it's a common issue it seems. If you did want to do it yourself I wrote up a sort of how to of what I learnt. It's pretty easy technically but hard work, search bleeding brakes it should come up.
And eagle F1 assyms are top notch have them myself.
 
I think that may have to come later in the year. I have lots of diy Jobs at home to finish first.

Today in the post came an alcantara gear gaiter to replace the leather one.

Simple job become a pain though due to missing part.

Not sure if they are available seperate or where to get one if they are.

It's the little black clip that sits in the chrome ring at the top of the gaiter to attach the gaiter to... If that makes sense.
I didn't lose it seems the leather gaiter was wedged in there.
 
Looks just like my gaiter, good choice.

I've got a bunch of bits and pieces laying around from dismantled consoles, I'll have a look when I get home tonight, but I should have one of those bits for you.
 
Thanks Jimbo would massively appreciate that!

Yeah I went through two in my last ep3, spilt super glue on the first one then had to replace it.

But unless you have the leather seats the leather gaiter doesn't suit the car at all IMO.

Drove to the gym with the lower half of the console missing only to realise that when hazard switch isn't connected you have no indicators / brake lights ooops..
 
Hah, yeah, I did exactly the same thing a couple of years ago! I didn't know the brake lights were out though, only noticed the indicators.....oops.

Pm me your address and I'll stick it in the post soon as I can. From buying and painting consoles I've got heaps of bits lying around.
 
Goodyear Eagle F1 asymmetrical 2's are being fitted right now.

Then car is having a full inspection by my mechanic to make sure everything is as should be.

Also asked him to WD40 camber arm bolts and front bolts as I have just placed an order for adjustable arms and bolts ready for me to fit them.

Next to order springs.

Now there are only two places that have full 4 wheel alignment near me.
Both want a touch over £100 for a FRSU, is that about right?

Also I know the general settings for FRSU but wanted to tame it down a touch,

I remember seeing these somewhere but cant find it anywhere now that I want to find it. Help anyone?
 
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Yeah this was a price from Hi Q and basically the same from Just car clinic. But think I will go to Hi Q as its nearer to me. (Don't have the time or money to travel to ABP or TDI)

God damn getting confused now haha

I know this has been covered too many times too.

Standard FRSU is below:

Front:

Toe out 0.5mm per side
Camber -1° per side

Rear:

Toe in 1mm per side
Camber -1° per side


So should I just stick with that or reduce the toe?
 
Springs now ordered too, should arrive tomorrow.

Just not sure whether to go 0.5mm toe per side on rear?
Some people seem to dislike toe on the front too..

Just want to get it right first time at £100 a pop
 
Wish I could help mate but haven't got to FRSU yet. If you've read all the posts already here on it, maybe put up one of your own. Hopefully some knowledgable soul will chirp up.
 
Going to stick with standard FRSU settings after much debate and a chat with ABP.

Well UPS lost my -30mm Apex springs, so not fitting those tonight. (I know theres a general hatred for anything other than eibach or JDM, but I actually quite like linear springs)
Told me they will never find them as they forgot to scan the parcel... At least im getting a refund, phoned about and no one has them in stock, 14 days earliest from Europe, I want them fitted this week!!
I was able to get the Apex at a great price, when I need to save some ££ for my impending FPN..blah

Well anyway ended up calling ABP again and ordering the 30mm Eibach's, they are much cheaper direct then via other websites or ABP themselves on ebay.
£150 I thought was good, promised to despatch today and arrive tomorrow.

Just unfortunately still awaiting my eight speed order for Hardrace camber arms and Eibach/SPC bolts.
 
ABP don't mess around, ordered the eibachs late yesterday afternoon and they arrived 9:30 this morning :lol:

Getting excited as I didn't lower the last ep3 or get a FRSU, so doing things in the right order this time.
 
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