Valve clearance affect fuel consumption??????

[Chiffs]

Both myself and the wife use the car for work. Her driving is mostly town stop start type of driving (to see clients) where as mine is a little town and then a bit of B road driving (10miles to work). Average mileage to a tank has been around 230 -240 miles which im kind of happy with although i know some on here manage to get 300+ to a tank.

The last tank was reduced to 170 miles dont know what has happened there

Car is 60k miles, using silkolene pro s 10w 40 oil, cat back buddyclub pro spec, AEM CAI Tyre pressure all good (checked weekly)
Oil change due in about 3k miles.

Is it known that adjusting the valve clearances might help to increase the mpg??????? Think they are due anyway.

Thinking also maybe new spark plugs and gearbox oil change, what do you reckon chaps???

 

[Chr15]

I reckon your missus has been thraping VTEC mate. You should be having words! lol

 

[jordbalboa]

lol

 

[Chiffs]

:lol::smt014

She dont hang round thats for sure but all her journeys are stop go around town so no real chance of vtecing. On the open round its a different story for her

 

[Chr15]

haha, she sounds like a Speedy Gonzalez.

If you havent had the valve clearances & gearbox oil done in a while I'd seriously think about doing them. I'd recommend anyone who has a decent Jack, socket set and basic tools to just do at least the oil change yourself. Its really not a difficult task and can save you mega bucks.

Poor valve clearances will increase the wear on your cam followers and you will be losing power - making you use more accelerator - which ultimately uses more fuel.
Old gearbox oil will increase the resistance/drag between the engine and the wheels - again making you use more accelerator. Same can be said about the Engine oil really.
Also low-octane fuel will make the ECU retard the ignition timing - which reduces power throughout the rev range. High Octane fuel will cause the ECU to advance it - which is why V Power has a distinct advantage of 95Ron fuel. Generally 97Ron+ fuel will allow you to drive at similar speeds using less throttle, which is what you want.
Also, check your throttle cable adjustment. This won't improve your MPG, but if there is any slack in the cable you throttle won't open as a far as it really can. More power FTW.

Personally advise to change the Engine and Gearbox oil yourself if I were you. Whether you would prefer to get a garage to do the clearances is down to whether you are confident in doing it yourself. Its not very difficult, it just takes a very delicate touch and can be a bit awkward as the engine is angled backwards. The intake valves are easy to do, the exhaust valves are a pain in the rear end if you're a short-arse like me lol.

 

[Chiffs]

Nice reply Chris,

Happy to everything myself, only time i take a car to a garage is for MOT. Have built an 300hp 1.8 ltr nissan 200 sx engine before, done everything apart from the rebore and crank grind as those machines wont fit in the spare and the misses might go nuts if i start getting gear like that.

Think i will have to get onto the oilman and sort some gear and engine oil out. Was there not someone on here selling oem plugs for around £40?(need to search that) Got a honda service manual in pdf so will check up on that for valve clearance and sort them when ive got a week off soon.

Throttle cable is fine as was looking at that the other day.


Didnt know the ecu are self learning, is that via listening to knock via a det sensor?

 

[Chr15]

Good stuff, you shouldn't find it too hard then matey. Changing the engine and gearbox oil is a piece of cake (although a little messy). I'd recommend a decent sized drain pan especially when doing the gearbox oil as it has a tendancy to drip all over the front subframe - Honda didn't really think that one through IMO.

As for the clearances, there is a good how-to on this here: http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?p=666542

One piece of advise though, make sure you don't put any downward pressure on the adjustable grub screws when closing the gaps up. If you put even the slightest bit of pressure on them the gap will close up and it'll seem as if it's already tight against the feeler gauge - This is why I say it takes a pretty delicate touch.

As for oil, it depends if you want to put in there. Personally I just go to my local motor factors where everything is really cheap. Mobil1 gearbox oil is £6 a bottle (need 3), 5ltrs of basic fully synthetic 5w30 is about £12, oil filter is £3.50. Not sure about the spark plugs though I'm afraid, I could probably do with some myself to be honest.

Oh and yes, the EP3 ECU's are self-learning and its the knock sensor which tells the ECU how to adjust the igntion advance. After running V Power for a few tanks, you can really feel the difference in throttle response. Its a shame it's so damned expensive nowadays.

 

[Chiffs]

Yeah V power prices do suck, have only been using normal shell (dont do supermarket fuels).

Think my massive drain pan 3ft x 2ft should do the trick for catching any fluid that misses the normal halfauds drain can i have.

Oil im using silkolene pro S at about £40 for 5 litres and have done 2 changes since buying the car about 2 years ago so will stick with that as its good sh!t.

Just found out that the Honda MTF is currently made by Fuchs (in oilmans thread on CTRowners) so will give the oilmanat Opie Oils a shout and see whats what for a price.

Just found the plugs at £38 in serving section on ctrowners (bargin).

Busy times to service the car then plus its also due a dam mot.

 

[Chr15]

You'll probably do all this work only for it to be failed on something stupid! lol. That's what normally happens to me anyway - yet our lasses shagged Ford KA with knackered suspension bushes, side mirror and door locks passes with flying colours??

Anyway, theres no denying going for Pro S is a good choice of oil. I've heard it suits the CTR to a T however I usually opt for cheaper stuff (Lucas race oil) and replace it more often as it's still good quality stuff. Whatever you go for its never a bad idea to keep it fresh - the colour of the oil when I first changed mine was shocking (as was the gear oil). A 2x3ft drain pan sounds ideal - else you'll be forever scrubbing your driveway with degreaser!

As for Shell, I'm running on Shell unleaded at the min as well! V Power is a skank and as for the Tesco pumps near I swear don't give you as much as they should do and the fuel is really crap quality. I reckon they can alter the accuracy or something.