What is the best order for modifications?

[FrankstaH]

Right so im looking to get modding at the end of the month.

I know that it's not a good idea to get your car mapped, until you've had supporting modifications to get the best results!

So... What is the best order for maps?

e.g.

1. Exhaust
2. Mani
3. cams

etc etc!

All input appreciated :twisted:

 

[Chris.]

Springs, FRSU and JDM rear anti roll bar.

 

[C4Doc]

^^^^ this handling before power

 

[Earthslug]

My advise:

1)Decent tires
2)decent brakes
3)Springs, FRSU, JDM antiroll.
4)Inductionkit
5)exhaust
6)race header
7)intake manifold
8)cams - S/C - turbo
9)mapping

 

[dotty]

My advise:

1)Decent tires
2)decent brakes
3)Springs, FRSU, JDM antiroll.
4)Inductionkit
5)exhaust
6)race header
7)intake manifold
8)cams - S/C - turbo
9)mapping

You will need mapping along with a race header being fitted.

 

[Earthslug]

You will need mapping along with a race header being fitted.

Well mine isn't mapped and works fine with race header... (used O2sim)

 

[Chris.]

Have you checked the AF ratio? You will find that it may be running lean. I certainly wouldn't use a race header on a stock ECU.

 

[Earthslug]

Have you checked the AF ratio? You will find that it may be running lean. I certainly wouldn't use a race header on a stock ECU.

Not more harm done than installing a CAI, exhaust parts have LESS influence on A/F than intake parts. I promise/assure/guarantee

But... I agree, it's not advised to run like this.

Here is a fact: I've NEVER know an engine "seize" because of a race header being installed, and second fact: There is more power, and it is not imaginary...


Now, to make a compromise on this matter, and exclude future quarreling,
Whenever you install a race header, make sure you get it mapped soon after, that's what I'd recommend indeed.

 

[Suits]

Intake.

Springs & FRSU.

Cat back.

Race header & ECU.

Strip & sell.

 

[Earthslug]

Intake.

Springs & FRSU.

Cat back.

Race header & ECU.

Strip & sell.

And what after selling with major loss... Okay, in the UK a "chav" might buy it at way too high priced,
Europe => cars are more worth OEM than modded.
Putting 2.000£ mods on a 10.000£ car makes it worth 8.000£; not 12.000, that's how it works around here.

little offtopic:
Would an S2000 be a good sucessor to an EP3 ? The wife agrees so far, just need some good advise/advice (don't know the proper English for this ).
No more than 2.0L, and EUDM available (silvia S15 isn't made left hand drive)
must be =>faster than EP3 (on dry conditions)

 

[Suits]

Advice .

I went from a EP3 to a AP1, it's good yeah, I suppose.

Similar power in a different layout and chassis.

Having no roof is cool and so are doughnuts.

Sometimes I wish I got a AWD boosted car, then the sun comes out and I forget about that.

 

[Earthslug]

Advice .

I went from a EP3 to a AP1, it's good yeah, I suppose.

Similar power in a different layout and chassis.

Having no roof is cool and so are doughnuts.

Sometimes I wish I got a AWD boosted car, then the sun comes out and I forget about that.

My mate has EVO IX, and yes it's fast, but I need fast-combined with no roof... BMW Z4 and S2000 are in my opinion the only convertibles made for men.
Now I've seen a OEM S2000 is not much quicker on track than EP3, you know, if I ever replaced the EP3, I want it to be a faster car than before... Can you still advice the s2000?

 

[Suits]

I want it to be a faster car than before... Can you still advice the s2000?

It's easier to drive the EP3 quicker than drive the S2000.

But if you have the skill (which I don't yet) the S2000 will be quicker.

If you want to go faster than a EP3 don't buy a AP1.

 

[Chris.]

Not more harm done than installing a CAI, exhaust parts have LESS influence on A/F than intake parts. I promise/assure/guarantee

Not true. A good induction kit leans out the standard fuel rich mixture, hence it'll give more power. Having a header in conjunction with an intake will lean it out too much.

Only way I'd run a race header without a map for the car, would be with the stock intake, but it won't give as much a gain as an intake on its own would, not to mention the ease of fitting.

 

[Suits]

I'd not feel comfortable running a race header on a OEM map.

1 - I'd be nervous every time I went to the redline

2 - I know it would be no where near its full potential. Like having a hot ass curvy Mrs but making her wear a potato bag.

 

[Earthslug]

Guys, you seem to forget the ECU has the ability to adapt to change more or less, within it's limits.
Do you know why it's called ECU and not: 'worthless piece of junk', because it's duty is to keep the engine running

Let's say OEM the car runs 14.7AF
fitting an intake won't make it run 12.7AF
on top of that fitting a race header won't make it run 10.7AF

The ECU will try and keep the 14.7AF

YES, it will run leaner, no doubt, but even NO intake and NO header won't make it run lean enough to waste the engine, it just can't...

I'll give an example, no doubt in it...
=>
When it's 38°C, running over 1000m of height, the car is MADE to adapt to the lack of air, same goes for freezing temperatures. It WILL run not like it's supposed to run, but it won't blow either way. Same goes for fitting parts.

 

[Chris.]

I'll take the advice of my tuner and many many K20 experts and stick to running a header only when coupled with a mapped ECU.