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Which mod first, Polybush or LSD + Final Drive?

S

Stardus.

Messages
51
I am planning to get a LSD fitted to my EP3 now that the suspension is sorted. The car rides so much better with Bilstein B14 and a geo setup than stock, a noticeable increase in grip on the same tyre.

What would be the ideal next mod prepping up for a dyno tune... Sometime in the future.

It's my daily driver and only lightly used on autosolo events. But hopefully trackday soon.


Currently on:
TGM Braided Lines + Upgraded fluids
Teigwa Brake-stopper
Teigwa Catback
PMU HC800+ pads up front, NC400 rear.
Bilstein B14 coilover with camber bolts and arms. Typical FRSU settings at the moment
 
LSD and no final drive. If it's a DD changing the final drive will leave you at some unpleasant revs on the motorway unless you also change to a taller 6th.
 
LSD and final drive are my favourite mods on mine so far but I went with the longer 6th from an Accord Type S which I'm glad I did.
 
Thanks for all the responses, I guess it is overwhelmingly LSD over polybushing. Still deciding if I should get the Final Drive done at the same time to save a bit of money.
 
Box is coming apart anyway. Lots of things can be done at that point. Clutch, flywheel, seals, bearings, synchros, taller 6th.
 
I'm in the same position at the moment, i have an LSD ready to fit but can't decide if buying a final drive is worth it.
I use the car daily and usually short shift up to 6th pretty fast to aid fuel consumption and reduce noise levels. If i'm honest i don't really understand how an FD actually makes the car faster, i guess i need to drive one to feel the difference.
 
u04pww2 said:
If i'm honest i don't really understand how an FD actually makes the car faster, i guess i need to drive one to feel the difference.
Click to expand...

It means you spend less time at lower revs on initial launch (quicker to VTEC from standstill) it also means that for any of your gears your engine is running at higher revs for the same speed, ergo more power (more explosions per distance travelled).

https://lh3.ggpht.com/_OGJ5GRjCOAI/.../s800/K-SeriesTransmissionTablev3-28-08re.jpg

Standard FD means 4.764 rotations of the gearbox output shaft leads to 1 rotation of the drive shaft. In first gear this would mean 3.266 rotations of the crank leads to 1 rotation of the output shaft, so 15.6 rotations of the crank leads to 1 wheel revolution. Moving to 5.1FD (5.062) means about 16.5 crank rotations leads to 1 wheel rotation in first gear.
 
Ah ok, great info thanks.

So in normal day to day driving i never hit vtec but on a weekend drive say i want to put my foot down at 40mph, i'd drop to 2nd and be in the power band all the way to 8500 then change gear and still be in the power band.
Would having a higher FD mean that i'd drop to 2nd a few hundred rpm higher therefore giving me more power?
 
u04pww2 said:
Ah ok, great info thanks.

So in normal day to day driving i never hit vtec but on a weekend drive say i want to put my foot down at 40mph, i'd drop to 2nd and be in the power band all the way to 8500 then change gear and still be in the power band.
Would having a higher FD mean that i'd drop to 2nd a few hundred rpm higher therefore giving me more power?
Click to expand...

The main benefit of a higher FD is not having the engine at an higher rpm but a direct increase of the wheel torque, hence faster acceleration.
 
I wouldn't bother with a longer 6th, as otherwise it would feel like 1,2,3,4,5 then 7.
 
Chris. said:
I wouldn't bother with a longer 6th, as otherwise it would feel like 1,2,3,4,5 then 7.
Click to expand...

Would that not be ideal though as it would be rare to reach the top of 5th gear, it would mean motorway cruising is nicer and give better mpg no?
 
u04pww2 said:
Would that not be ideal though as it would be rare to reach the top of 5th gear, it would mean motorway cruising is nicer and give better mpg no?
Click to expand...

One some tracks you will be going into 6th, nothing worse than reaching top of 5th to then change and have nothing left.
 
Back in the day when EVO magazine did a back to back (to back) test with the FN2, the difference between the standard (at the time) FN2 and the C/W FN2 was only the (Honda factory-fit) LSD. The difference on the Bedford Autodrome circuit was 2 seconds. That's a chunk of time to find in a lap and shows how useful the LSD can be.
 
So which FD is worth doing?

5.1 (5.06) seems to be reliable as it'll be oem honda but not much difference, whereas 5.46 will be a bit harsh on the motorway to drive to the track days!

On the other hand the 5.1 should be gettable for 250 ish from a breaker fn2? 5.46 will be m factory and ££££
 
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