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FK2 Clutch bleed Nd gearbox oil change

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23
Hi

I'm new to the FK2, my son has purchased one with the intention of a few trackdays over the coming year. So we are going to do a few basic bits and bobs to start with

Clutch bleed

I've spotted a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and the clutch appears to have its own fluid reservoir.

Is there a preferred method of bleeding or is it a case of nipple open, clutch down, nipple closed clutch up etc etc

Gear box oil change

Found the drain plug on the bottom of the box and the filler on the top of the box under the induction system.

Is it a case of draining and measuring what you refill it with or is there a level plug I haven't spotted yet ? What is the correct oil volume 2.???? LTR ?

I'm working on a plan to bring a towing strap to the front and rear - we'll see how that pans out

Brake line / pads etc will be on the cards also in due course

Many thanks for your assistance

Paul
 
Veehex is the only one I know whose dabbled in all 3, he'll be able to help you out, probably pop on soon
 
I found gravity bleeding the clutch worked well and gave you plenty of time to refill the reservoir as required. Gearbox is done on level ground and fill until it starts to drip from the fill hole. I can recommend the PBS brake pads for track use and please keep us informed of any developements on your plan for a towing solution.
 
Clutch bleed

I've spotted a bleed nipple on the slave cylinder and the clutch appears to have its own fluid reservoir.

Is there a preferred method of bleeding or is it a case of nipple open, clutch down, nipple closed clutch up etc etc

G

There are five ways to bleed this type of system.

1. Two-man pump\open\close release method as you mention.
2. One-man kit. Same as above but the hose connecting to the nipple has a one way valve effectively acting as the nipple open\close action.
3. Pressure bleed kit. Difficult to fix to the smaller reservoir these have but I've seen custom built ones. These are the ones that use air from spare tyre or generator to push the fluid through.
4. Vacuum bleed. Hand held pump at the slave end build a vacuum, open the nipple, draws the fluid through.
5. Gravity bleed. Works OK for just a fluid change, not great if try to bleed air out the system (unless you can assemble the entire system off the car and gravity bleed prior to installation).

All these will also work to some degree on braking systems.
The easiest, fastest and effective way by far is the vacuum bleeder, I've done a totally dry clutch system in 10 mins with one. They're <£15 on fleabay.
Only negative with them is you really need to wrap a bit of teflon tape around the bleed nipple threads and re-install them, otherwise they like to draw air past the threads greatly reducing their effectiveness and making it tricky to see what's coming out the bled system.

OTT reply for the benefit of future thread searches :)
 
Just to add on the gearbox i have just had a look and it does look like there is a fill plug on top of the gearbox which is confusing as all the boxes i have ever refilled have been as above with the filler on the side.
 
i don't know what works anymore... bled the clutch a few times recently but keep getting poor shifts after a week or two later. it's going into dealer next week as i think my issues are clutch (AGAIN!) and not hydraulics.

assuming no air is in the system, i'd try gravity bleed. 3 pumps on the clutch and the reservoir will empty and draw air in.
because i got air in mine, i found 2man method works to recover it. pump pedal a few times and with pedal down, release nipple, lock nipple once fluid pushed through, and repeat.

i havent yet found out about gearbox oil. I havent yet found any info about it. Wonder if the FK8 guys have found it like on civicX forums...
When i looked out of curiosity, i couldn't find a fill plug (on the side) or a way to know how much is in there. Like RichE mentions, maybe there is a top plug to fill. not sure how you'd know if your over/under though.
Only place i couldnt get access to was engine side of the diff (where the driveshafts come out), so maybe one there.
 
Thanks for the info

I think I'll try gravity and 2 man method on the clutch - noted about 3 pumps and empty !

As for gearbox the drain is underneath but looks as if all the under tray has to come off. I've spotted a fill plug (square) drive on the top of the box but not sure how to check the level. Is there a level plug on the side of the box ?

I'm struggling to find much info on the FK2 compared to other makes we've played with
 
i've found the same. a massive lack of info on the FK2R. i think thats down to me buying new where as the others have all had 8years out in the wild before i got my grubby mits on it. plenty of info others found first.
saving grace is the FK8 uses same gearbox&engine so once the yanks get a few years on it, we should be golden for more than everything we want. if i get bored over the next week i might go poke around the civicx and hondakarma forums to see what info they have already. both those sites seem to come up often in my tech info searches (albeit not fk2/fk8 specific info)
 
@veehexx

I'm planning on dropping the gearbox oil measuring what comes out and put the same amount of fresh in as I don't want to overfill, just how it wasn't under filled from new

I hope around 2 litres or so comes out !
 
just had a quick look from on top - i think our oil cooler is different than the FK8 so hard to judge. i couldnt find it. probably needs access from underneath like the guide says to get a better look at it.
top side has batteries, air filters etc in the way.
 
Just had the air box out and a look from the top, I can't see the level plug, maybe easier to see with under tray off (assuming it's there)
 
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Bled the clutch, gravity method giving a marginal improvement

Tried the the 2 man pump method and found that with the bleed nipple open as soon as you touched the clutch pedal it dropped to the floor and had to be manually lifted back up with the nipple closed - it wasn't like this on our recent Reno's ?...
 
possibly a return spring on the renaults.
honda went for the weight saving route and didn't include one so gotta manually pull it back.
 
Just had the air box out and a look from the top, I can't see the level plug, maybe easier to see with under tray off (assuming it's there)

did you get anywhere with the level plug? i'm toying with the idea of changing my fluid at the weekend.
 
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