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Thread: Rust removal

  1. #1
    Man28's Avatar
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    Default Rust removal

    Removed my rear speaker today as its a good place to look for rust. To my disappointment there was what looks like surface rust (not much but prefer 0% rust!)

    Whats the best way to remove it as its not the easiest place to get to....

    Also, looking to under seal and remove arch lining as this is another common place. Is it worth under sealing or not??

    TIA

  2. #2
    Ricki1985's Avatar
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    Iím currently in the process of removing rust and underbody sealing my ep3, Itís taken me two weeks so far but getting there, my process = Fully clean and degrease the area 1st, then make sure itís dry, then remove as much rust as possible with a wire wheel on a drill / wire brushes, I then applied Bilt hamber hydrate 80 rust converter to pitted areas where rust was bad, then primed over rusted ares with Bilt hamber electrox zinc primer, then painted all areas including non rusted areas with Bilt hamber epoxy mastic, I then filled / injected all chassis rails and sills / floor pan with Bilt hamber s50 wax and finally coated all underbody with Bilt hamber ub wax. You can see why this process has taken two weeks as you have to wait a day in between coats ect, hopefully this will keep the rust at bay? In regards to the arch liners I had a rust hole behind these on both sides so I replaced with fresh steel after cutting out the rot. Hope this helps, but there are lots of different products out there, but Iíve tried Bilt hamber as they have great reviews, cheers

  3. #3
    CR54WDS's Avatar
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    I used bilt hamber dynax cavity spray, Hammerite Underbody seal & Rustins Rust Converter...

    https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50

    https://www.google.com/search?q=Hamm...hrome&ie=UTF-8

    https://www.rustins.ltd/rustins/our-...rust-converter
    Cosmic grey EP3 Track slag, Hondata + M-Factory + 242 bhp
    Kuga AWD daily - SOLD
    BMW 335D X drive + M Sport pack

  4. #4
    Nat30th's Avatar
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    Definitely underseal, my car was done with Dinitrol products not myself I cheated and wanted a certificate and guarantee at the end of it. Plenty of rust work was done myself in other areas.
    I used some amazing stuff called evapo rust for small things soak in a tub and you can also wrap stuff in tissue paint with evapo rust cling film and the next day itís like new. Rustins is also a good product that works well but appears to be a acid based Evaporust is ph neutral .
    Donít bother with hard coatings like stone chip stick to plyable self healing stuff.
    Bilthamber is very good can not fault it as above use that method Ricky uses but strip the interior and really get in everywhere with the cavity wax as itís easy to miss bits take the carpet out and check the seams also .. I re seam sealed my whole interior of the shell what a horrible job that was �� be prepared to do it properly takes hours and blood n sweat .
    These cars rot at the seams badly so check every seam and redo as necessary if your going in deep be prepared for hard graft

  5. #5
    Man28's Avatar
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    Default

    Any other places to check apart from arches, hinges, inside rear speakers....

  6. #6
    Nat30th's Avatar
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    Plenty of places how far do you want to go ? start by removing interior carpet check the floor pan and seams, especially around your foot area where the panels join and where seatbelt attaches lower on the rail bolted to the inner sill check all seams both sides .

    Inside rear boot remove plastics check in the wheel wells with a torch and also all boot seams and around rear suspension turrets.
    Rear panel once bumper and reinforcement bar removed treat this.
    Rear boot hinges, under boot rubber seal remove and clean it if muddy or moist .
    Under side skirts, rear wheel wells.
    Front end remove bumper, reinforced bar check T piece, shock turrets, inner chassis legs and internal legs, front engine brace will be rusty by the steering rack. Inside your bonnet by the catch, front end, front panel rad support, roof gutters remove and clean . Basically if you want to keep it strip it and do it properly check everywhere. It’s a lot of work mine started as check for corrosion and ended as a engine in restoration job even down to rebuilding the bonnet catch mechanism and the red stitching and replacing every corroded bolt nut and restoring parts I could. It’s an expensive task if you go in too deep and my car was a very clean honest low owner low miles car with FHSH
    Restored 30th anniversary, Golf GTD Mk7

  7. #7
    MattMF1's Avatar
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    Default

    I've done exactly the same re. the rear speakers. Was wondering if i attack the rust from underneath as well as behind the rear speaker than this will be it for that area. Is there a panel between what you see behind the rear speaker and the rear wheel well, or is it the same panel above and below?

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