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Thread: Suspension for beginners

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    HASNIC's Avatar
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    Default springs

    thanks will give them a call

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    Mark Type R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilanoChris View Post
    Suspension

    The majority of people go for the "fast road setup".

    The settings are:

    1 degree neg camber all round
    2mm toe in at rear
    1mm toe out at front
    Looks like im having the FRSU for my Teg at Christmas. Is this the best setup for it?

    Also where's the best place to get my bolts and thingy's from?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Type R View Post
    Looks like im having the FRSU for my Teg at Christmas. Is this the best setup for it?

    Also where's the best place to get my bolts and thingy's from?

    Thanks
    The best setup all depends on what you want from the car and what its main uses are. The above settings are the standard FRSU settings as a rule of thumb and are suited to most road cars. Unless you're doing a load of track work, then they will be ideal and they are what TGM will dial in if you don't specify a setting.

    TGM can supply all the parts you will need.

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    Mark Type R's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilanoChris View Post
    The best setup all depends on what you want from the car and what its main uses are. The above settings are the standard FRSU settings as a rule of thumb and are suited to most road cars. Unless you're doing a load of track work, then they will be ideal and they are what TGM will dial in if you don't specify a setting.

    TGM can supply all the parts you will need.

    Cheers Chris, its only going be A & B road use.

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    Nigel EP3 05's Avatar
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    Hey everyone,

    Im planning on taking my ep3 to the mechanic next week to fit in the ITG maxogen. I am also interested in doing some geometry settings one its in. Heard alot about the fast road setup. Hear in Malta our roads are quite rough though.

    I am new to this mods therfore would appreciate any feedback on what would be a good setup form me. I do like to enjoy the car and push it, therfore i am looking for a setup where i push the car and at the same time get as much grip as possible. Maybe i could get upgraded springs? Forget coilovers as there is no point, especially with out roads. Not sure where to start?

    Getting a new set of two Toyo T1 R's also as the back one are finishing. Maybe getting them 215/45/17 would help? Does grip improve on the ep3 if the width of the tires are slight larger in front?

    Thanks guys

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    First to flounce Suits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nigel EP3 05 View Post
    Hey everyone,

    Im planning on taking my ep3 to the mechanic next week to fit in the ITG maxogen. I am also interested in doing some geometry settings one its in. Heard alot about the fast road setup. Hear in Malta our roads are quite rough though.

    I am new to this mods therfore would appreciate any feedback on what would be a good setup form me. I do like to enjoy the car and push it, therfore i am looking for a setup where i push the car and at the same time get as much grip as possible. Maybe i could get upgraded springs? Forget coilovers as there is no point, especially with out roads. Not sure where to start?

    Getting a new set of two Toyo T1 R's also as the back one are finishing. Maybe getting them 215/45/17 would help? Does grip improve on the ep3 if the width of the tires are slight larger in front?

    Thanks guys
    Hello,

    Firstly, getting springs will stiffen up the car and give a more harsh/firm ride. Don't go for too low of drop if you are concerned about sacrificing ride quality.

    -20mm will be fine, maybe look at the Eibach Sportlines or the Spoon springs for this sort of drop.

    Couple this with a FRSU (Fast Road Set Up) and you will have a vast improvement in road holding and feel. You will get a much improved turn in and the car will feel much more planted. To go further again, add a few strut braces and this will stiffen teh car up further.

    In regards to your tyre choice, in theory, yes, the wider your tyres, the more contact you have, but its minimal and I doubt you would be able to tell the difference.

    On my CTR I have 215/40/17's in all corners. If you were to fit 215/45/17's you would be giving yourself that extra bit of sidewall to soften the ride and protect your alloys against pot holes. The only down side to this is appearance (personaly) and side tyre wall flex, where if you were being picky would take a snip off the handling of the car, but in the real world, again, I doubt you would be able to tell the difference.

    So, if I were you, saying that you are worried about the roads in Malta, I would go for;
    • Eibach/Spoon Springs.
    • FRSU
    • 215/45/17 Tyres x 4.

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    Nigel EP3 05's Avatar
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    Hey Suits...thanks alot for you reply. I have T1's on all four corners right now, only the back need replacing. The front ones which im keeping are 205/45/17.

    Think its better if i put the 205/45/17 at the back and put new ones 115/45/17 in the front right?

  10. #19
    First to flounce Suits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nigel EP3 05 View Post
    Think its better if i put the 205/45/17 at the back and put new ones 115/45/17 in the front right?
    Ah, yeah I suppose, but like I said in the other post, its a very small difference.


  11. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MilanoChris View Post
    Suspension

    It is arguably the most important modification. It won't matter how much power you are getting in your car if you can't control the car properly.

    Geomerty tuning is also the cheapest mod too!

    It seems that a lot of CTRs have incorrect geometry settings which can make the car spin very easily. Get it checked using a proper 4 wheel alignment centre. 2 wheel is not enough.

    Some definitions:

    Caster angle - This is the angle of the steering axis tilt.

    Camber angle- this is vertical splay angle of the wheel.

    Toe angle - longitudinal splay of wheels.

    Unfortunately, the CTRs suspension is not easily adjusted. Of all the above factors, only toe is adjustable. Camber can be adjusted with the use of camber bolts.

    There are no ideal setttings - it all depends on your driving style and the roads you drive on. Satisfactory results can be obtained by altering the camber and toe.

    Camber dictates the vertical splay of the wheel. Negative camber means the bottom of the wheel tucks out. Positive camber causes the bottom of the wheel to poke out.

    Negative camber improves the contact patch when cornering. Too much can reduce traction in a straight line and increase tyre wear at the inner shoulders.

    Toe angle describes the longitudinal angle of the wheel at its leading edge, closest to the front of the car

    Toe-out splays the wheels outwards. At the front, this helps to increase turn in sharpness, but can make the front end more lively when cruising.
    Toe-in increases cruising stability and dulls turn-in.

    At the rear, toe-out helps the car oversteer and reduces back end stability. Toe in increases stability. FWD tend to be setup with rear toe-in to stop snap oversteer.

    So armed with this knowledge, you should be able to decide how u want your car setup. You'll just have to experiment. Remember that more extreme alignment setups will decrease tyre life.

    The majority of people go for the "fast road setup".

    The settings are:

    1 degree neg camber all round
    2mm toe in at rear
    1mm toe out at front
    No text speak.

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