Search results

Have you had had your modifications mapped properly, or just fitted them and carried on?

I had a Wavetrac LSD fitted to my FI EP3, was excellent to be fair.

I had the Vibra-Technics Competition Engine mounts, and they were spot on. Very little vibration through the steering wheel and stopped the engine rocking. Highly recommended by myself.

I have the shell, motor and gearbox. Plans were to put them in a EG or EK. The dilemma is yours, personally what I really loved about my EP3 was it was a complete sleeper, it was only looking at it from the front you would have known it was different from a standard EP3. The fun I had...

Same problem here. :smt041

It's not the BHP that will kill a motor, it's the torque. Mine was torque limited to just over 300ftlb. Ben at TDi North was running over 500bhp in his k-swapped EG. There are a couple of reasons I recommend turbo over SC, but the main reason is power delivery. A supercharger delivers power via...

I was running 460bhp+ and 310ftlb torque on completely stock internals, never had an issue. I also had a wavetrac LSD and Stage 4 Competition Clutch. The car took a battering at Santa Pod regularly, as well as being my daily for a while also. Like I said, I never had any issues with the motor...

I had both the rotrex intercooler supercharger, and a TDi North turbo kit. If you are worried about being bored in a N/A FN2, you will get bored with a SC eventually. In my honest opinion go turbo, it's just better.

It's not been in a shunt and been poorly repaired has it?

TDI North will build you a kit to your specifications. They are excellent with K20s.

To be honest, the rotrex was fine. You have to keep on top of the fluid levels, but besides that it was pretty much spot on. The reason I got rid was I got bored of it after about a month. It acts like a normal motor, only a bit quicker. Its down to this, if you want 300bhp and you don't care...

Read through my build thread. I had both on my EP3.

No, my motor was never split open. Only a new timing chain and tensioner were replaced Mine covered a good 15k miles as a daily, and was thrashed at Santa Pod regularly. Ben Smith at TDI North had his turbo EG, running 500bhp for years. Also the lad who bought my turbo kit is still running it...

Not necessarily Chris. I happily ran 470 on stock internals.

Have a read through my build thread. Loads of info on my turbo EP3.

Not really a big job. If I remember correctly, you can remove the centre part that surrounds the radio and heater vents separately, without removing any more of the dash.

I used to powder coat stuff. If they are putting that much paint on a rim that it's causing the tyre to slip, they are doing something seriously wrong. Powder coating works by by a static charge attracting the paint to the metal object you want to coat. The charge applied is so minimal you...

I had the wavetrac LSD. No complaints from me.

Are you 100% sure it's a stock Ecu? Could have Flash Pro or another piggyback programmable Ecu.

Considered taking an angle grinder to it over coming bank holiday and cutting it into little pieces.

Have a read through my build thread, there is loads of info on the Intercooler Rotrex I was running on there, along with issues and maps etc. I updated with the negatives and positives before I went turbo.

I've had both supercharger and turbo on my EP3. The Rotrex Race SC and a custom TDI North turbo build. In my opinion a turbo is the better option when it comes to FI. Although in most cases it is more expensive, but it's just better. A SC is pretty much as it comes, it builds power as the engine...

Think at that age they will all be similar unless they have been rust treated. Especially after a winter where the roads have been salted heavily.

So it's a 14 year old car, have you had the underside treated with any anti rust paint?

How old is it?

No mine was a custom made kit rated to 800bhp. I was only tickling it at 14psi. In all honesty, I haven't e looked at bolt on kits for a long time, but I do know TDI North are still making thier drive in, drive out kits for I think £6k, I might be wrong about the price though. Although they do...

If your looking at a bolt on kit that cost less than £2000, I wouldn't bother. Its cheap for a reason. Flimsy parts, probably won't make the gains your looking for, and it would always be in the back of my mind that the turbo could disintegrate and send metal into your motor and destroy that...

EP3 turbo kits won't fit an FN2. Also that turbo kit is cheap, personally I wouldn't want it in my engine bay. If anything was to go wrong, it's a motor killer.

I though they had stopped making them. Email buddyclub direct.

Have a read through my build thread. I wrote a lot about my Rotrex before I went turbo. Honest opinion, if you're thinking of going FI, go turbo. In my opinion it's the better option.

No, just get yourself some decent pads and fluid. A change of discs if money allows, but in all honesty, if your set on going for a BBK, I would just the set up as it is until you go forced induction. Something to think about when you get a BBK, you may need to run spacers to get them under the...

Another here shouting for the Buddyclub Short shifter. Cracking bit of kit.

I had both on my Civic, completely stock engine, no issues at all, even when I was pushing 14psi through the turbo. The K20's are bulletproof.

Is that a Concerto in the background. I had one of those, a 1.6 16v. Still had Rover seat belts though, so I always had a little hesitation when gunning it.

Lock the car with the key.

Or more interestingly, it could be running a map that you don't know it has, for other mods. Have you looked at the ECU, is it standard?

At a guess, your modifications are not supported by a map.

You do have Oulton Park and Anglesea, both run a lot of track days throughout the year.

Full cable IIRC.... Or leave a pair of pliers in the door card, as I did.

When I had mine, when washing the car, I just used to shove a rag into the scoop. Never had an issue.

Im 99% sure EP3 Pete had one on his EP3, as I think he acted as guinea pig for the MOT for TDI.

There was somebody on the forum who either made them, or got them made in a group buy. Have a search of the group buy thread. Other than that, I think Fibreworx have a mould to make one. They are on Facebook.

I had a custom 3" system made for my EP3 whilst it was supercharged. B-Pipe and backbox from a place called Pipeworx in Hoscar. £450 IIRC. It made 12bhp at the top end over a standard system, and about 25-30bhp midrange. It was stupidly loud.

When I was looking at Hill climbing, as long as it had a valid Mot you could race. Hence interior stripping, but leaving the seats in. Also the glass could be swapped out for Perspex, as long as it met Mot guidelines.

Are you planning on using the car on the road also? Put it on a diet, whip the carpets out, the roof lining, if you replace the front seats with some lighter racing seats, and replace the glass (bar the window screen) with perspex. Will save you a lot of unnecessary weight, and keep you within...

You going to need a pretty aggressive geometry set up to get it round the tight corners quickly. If your stripping weight, the 197bhp standard power will be plenty for hill climbing, anymore would just be overkill. Good luck

Im 99% sure there is a 'how to' guide to doing the original air box mod, which will explain the removal and re assembly of the airbox

Pretty much, for the same money you could probably turbo it, and get more power. I'm 99% sure TDi North do a drive in, drive out kit for £5k, thats 350bhp easy. Or you could keep an eye out for a second hand Jackson Racing Supercharger, probably a grand second hand, £800ish quid fitted and...

There is a motor in a shell on my drive, come and take what you need. (The whole shell removed would be helpful.)

I would be amazed if you didn't make 250ish with those mods. Also don't forget when you get the car mapped, if done by a decent mapper, the artificial power surge will be mapped out of it, and a more straight line map will replace it, so it will pull like a train through to 8400rpm. Also keep...

I'm not up to date with prices these days, but bolt on Mods include; RBC intake manifold, An air intake ( Tegiwa M is probably the best bet ) 4 2 1 Branch Exhaust Manifold ( Friendly MOT place needed) A 2.5" B-Pipe ( Exhaust center section ) A decent back box ( Magnex, answers the question in...

You will get 240-260bhp with all the bolt on Mods. The rattle is probably the heat shield above the CAT. I was running 470bhp by the time TDi North had finished.

Handling first. As Mike.H says. Camber arms and bolts, full Geo set up, decent tyres. You will be surprised how much better it feels once its planted. LSD is an expensive option, but if your planning a clutch and flywheel change and its in budget thens the time to do it. Kpro is a good choice...

Only my bank balance after spunking almost £35k on the EP3 over 4 years.

Simply, No, it actually did nothing to improve anything, except look good.

Sat in work at dinner time, looked out the window and spotted this; Doesn't look like there is too much damage, front bumper, bonnet, NS wing, possibly a headlight. Definitely not enough damage for it to be written off. Went on a quick search of the salvage yard auction site, and it hasn't...

Spent quite a while looking at it in contempt. Wondering if I should cut it up and scrap it, or just arrange a hiab to come and remove it.

It doesn't really matter what something costs, if its made of cheap materials it will fail. Especially with exhausts where it is such a thin steel in places.

A sump baffle would be pretty high on my list for a track car. Should be more than capable with the mods you have listed.

If you can find the sizes, pretty much any decent hardware shop will sell the bolts.

J Racing will clear the Teg Intake

At the speeds done on the road, I really doubt downforce is the issue. It's not a F1 car after all. I would be looking at handling issues, possibly poor spec tyres. Have you tried swapping the Yokahama's and putting them on the back. That will rule out the tyres pretty quickly.

I'd start with a full Geometry set up. Get the toe and camber right, and it will feel much more planted.

It will be more noticeable than 40bhp, and cheaper in the short term. Also the car will be set up properly for when more power is added.

First thing you should look at is Camber Arms and Bolts, possibly shorter springs, and a full, proper Geometry set up. You will be amazed at how much more you can push the car round bends, without engine mods.

Honestly, I dont know. There is too many options now. I do know if I was ever to go back to forced induction, it would be 4 wheel drive. That was the only real downfall to my Civic, plant your foot in 4th and it would start spinning, especially on wet roads. It might be my old age kicking in ...

I turbo'd my EP3, although it was a 1 off kit. Snooks post is excellent above. I loved mine, it was fast and stealthy, and I had a lot of fun. But EP3's are getting on now, and although they are a fantastic car, there are better and faster options on the market now, all dropping in price...

Good to hear.

You could probably use a helicoil. Tap the ruined hole out a little larger than it should be, and use a thread insert, and then screw in an original sized bolt. Im pretty sure you can buy the kit for less than £20, with instructions.

Don't mess about trying to go quick in a straight line, get it sharp in the corners and enjoy the A roads. Camber arms and bolts and a full FRSU, and an ECU and proper remap.

Have you checked your oil recently?

Get a mate to hang out the boot while driving down a quiet road. Failing that, as Loxy says, most tracks will accommodate you being neutral limited.

I sold my KPro3 a few years ago for £300.

Goodridge braided hoses Cobra Imola Pro seats. They are a little wider, but massively supportive. Personally I wouldn't bother with a BBK, I would just get a pair of Spoon Monoblock callipers, Ferodo DS2500 pads, and OEM discs.

I had Meister R - Zeta R's on my EP3. They were very good for the money. I had no issues. Just remember to bladder them in copper slip so they don't seize.

Lego?

Get your cheque book ready.... Turbo Wastegate Intercooler Turbo Manifold Downpipe Wastegate Pipe Fuel Pressure Regulator Injectors Fuel Pump Boost Control Solenoid Kit 4 Bar Map Sensor Battery Relocation The exhaust stuff I doubt you can buy off the shelf, and will probably have to get made...

We have huge vibrating gearboxes in work, when a bearing fails it squeals and makes a sound similar to your video, until it collapses completely and smashes the gears. Obviously it wasn't that and just a loose TB.

You can put a resin (or bluetac) in the threads and holes, which just peels out. But as Loxy says, Powder Coating isn't particularly suited to high temps, as it cures at less than 200 degrees, spray painting with suitable paint is the way forward for cam covers. Spooner does a cracking job, and...

That video sounds like when we have a collapsed bearing at work. When the rollers come out and casing are grinding against each other, before they fail. It does sound like metal on metal, but I haven't got the best sound quality here.

This is lovely, South African import. So clean. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord-Coupe-3-0-V6-24V-/263036258655?hash=item3d3e2ec95f:g:6e8AAOSwFJBZQPRc

I love this, can't wait to see it when its properly set up as you want it H. Bet its brilliant to drive.

Lol, Im not going to lie Pete, it crossed my mind. Quite a lot, all day to be honest. But I think Im going to stick with the MX5 and see where that takes me.

I had Lexus lights in my Vectra GSi, circa 2004. Probably the most expensive part of the car. Incidentally, in my recent eBay searches, I found an EG, 1.5lsi currently at £450, nowhere near as tidy as Petes, but a good starting point for someone.

Is it Bens Pete? Its an absolute minter if it is. Its a tough decision, but either way its a cracking car.

Got everything for a K-swap here if you want it Pete.... ;)

I think I know where this is going.....

Does anyone recommend a product that will buff out scratches on a window screen? Ive bought Bec a Fiesta, and the front window looks like its been cleaned with a wire brush. Its full of light scratches. Is there anything that will polish them out?

Out of curiosity, how much did you pay for it?

Yeah, I edited it when I realised it was different years with the K24. The link up now is the correct one and the year of manufacture is stamped on the drivers side of the engine. I would go along with 2001 as being more than likely, unfortunately for Ben.

I googled it. Look on the driverside of the engine. Just below the valve cover should be numbers there. 02, 03, 04. That number is the year of the motor. A link to the page, with pictures.... http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3951

Im 99% sure both Pre and Facelift motors are K20A2. The engines in both models are exactly the same. Facelift flywheels do have holes in. Where as your new one does not.

As Loxy says, give it a wire brush, and get a can of sealant if you want to protect it. I wouldn't worry about surface rust, if you can't push your finger through it, worry then.

Forget intake and exhaust, just no. Step away from engine mods. My advice for you is get some Eibach lowering springs, some adjustable camber arms, and get a full geometry set up done. Professionally. Get the thing to handle properly before you go down the power route. Also bear in...

Impressive. How are the Hasport mounts? Are they a drop in part, or did they need modifications to get everything correct?

As Stu said, it isn't a linear line. There are too many variables. Heres the figures from when I was having my turbo built, As you can see the difference between 7 - 8psi is only 10bhp, but the jump from 11-12psi is 19bhp. It went on to make 467bhp at 14psi.

Have you tried Wheel Repair Centre in Leyland/Preston?

As above, the key in the drivers door, should open just the drivers door. When I parked my EP3 over winter, I would lock the car on the fob, and then disconnect the battery, and shut the drivers door with the handle held up, which would deadlock the car. When I wanted to get back in it, the key...

You could ring TDI North and see if they have a bottle knocking about.

Try TTS Performance, they have an online shop.