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Brake pad choice is down a lot to personal preference and sometimes you’ve got to try a few to find one that suits your needs/style. One type may work for one but not for another. My experience with the DS2500 is the braking power they provide is good. But they wear out quickly and when...

The shield is shaped to scoop air into the discs so I’m not so sure there would be any benefit.

You won’t be warping the discs. It’ll be pad deposits sticking to the discs causing the vibration when braking. You get excessive pas deposits sticking to the discs when the pads overheat. Over time the pad deposits wear off with normal braking and the vibrations reduce. You either need to buy...

Where are you located? There’s many reputable tuners for these vehicles all over the country.

With any keyless starting vehicle, once started, it will run without the key present until the ignition is switched off. This is so the vehicle doesn’t turn off unexpectedly potentially causing you to be stranded or worse causing an accident. Most systems now will put warning messages on the...

I’ve polished my headlamps, far better than before but you won’t get that same finish that you’d see with a brand new unit. As for HID/Xenon conversions, it was a grey area with MOT’s when they first brought in some rules over it a few years back. But now the rules are if it’s not factory fit...

You’ll never get a rim close enough to hit the shock unless something gets bent or the wheel size is something silly. Rear camber arms shouldn’t come loose if tightened up correctly

You won’t find 3mm in hub centric as they’re too thin. The centre of the hub barely pokes out from the 3mm shim. However I ran 3mm shims in the past and didn’t have any issues.

Yep I had mine done by royal steering wheels

Car lives in a coastal area?

New pads can feel a little soft before they’ve bed in. Along with the type of pads you’ve used and their quality.

There’s a wire to your headunit for illumination which will be linked to the side light circuit. I’d try disconnecting the headunit, recheck all fuses (either blown or missing) and see if the lights work.

The steering arms need to be at an angle. If they’re ‘level’ or ‘straight’ then you’ll get bump steer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scrap the inverted ends. They’ll probably create more bump steer.

No refrigerant/gas pressure in the system prevents from the compressor switching on. You’ll need to check if it’s lost it’s gas since being refilled which will confirm you have a leak.

Not worth doing unless you know what you’re doing. Also you’ll never get a decent map without using a rolling road. You’ll get the fuelling and ignition there about but you’ll be taking a guess with the camshaft advance.

Even on PCP you still need a car that’s got good resale value so you stay in positive equity either mid or end of the term.

Beat me to it. Oh and with genuine parts you’ll get some level of manufacturer's guarantee on the parts....

No gasket. Use Hondabond HT to seal the sump.

They never last as long as genuine and still it’ll be a struggle to pass each year without getting the catalytic converter really hot.

Yes they are.

Rookie technician? Really? As an example, every AMG engine is hand built. Every single nut and bolt is done up with a tool that measures the torque. I don’t think rookies assemble them engines... The only ways I can think of where a torque wrench isn’t worth using and should be done by feel is...

You should use a torque wrench whenever there’s a specified torque for the nut/bolt. I use mine as much as possible. It’s not I don’t have any feel for it. But using a torque wrench you know it’s 100% correct. It’s the difference between ‘that will do’ and a proper job. You can do just as much...

As far as I’m aware, there’s no limit to how many launches you can do on any vehicles within the VW Audi group. However, if within your warranty period you had an issue with the gearbox, more specifically the clutches, they will take into account the number of launches done.

Only time the ECU records data is when the fault occurs. When a fault is logged, it also collects the date, time, and engine conditions (rpm, temperatures, air mass etc.) The ECU doesn’t record every single piece of running data. However they normally have a counter readings stored for various...

All depends on the product. These liquid waxes that car wash places throw all over the car cause issues. Then how the screen wash effects the product can also have an effect as the chemicals can react. End of the day manufactures design the wiper system to work with zero product on the screen.

Wouldn’t recommend anything on the windscreen personally. See frequent issues of wipers smearing and juddering due to products on the screen.

Not sure what all the tears are about. Would you rather it break down outside the manufacturer's warranty period?

Don’t fit a ‘rack raiser’ unless you need to correct the angle and bump steer. This all needs to be correctly measured. A lot of people are fitting these and changing the angle that will actually increase bump steer. On some set ups people fit them upside down to get 0 bump steer....

Nope, stick to OEM. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You’re running a wider tyre and a wider rim which will contribute to your symptoms. You’ve increased the width of the wheel track, the less difference in size there is between the length of the wheel base and the track width, the more ‘twitchy’ the handing becomes.

You’ll be amazed what was done to vehicles from new at dealer level. A little different nowadays as a lot of the cars come already equipped as standard with the usual stuff. Back in the day though you’d be cutting open roofs to fit sunroofs and drilling holes in the wings to fit aerials. Radios...

Spent half hour on mine with a machine polisher and different compounds. They’re much better but never 100% perfect and like everyone else says, it’ll probably need doing again in the near future.

Exactly, need the A/C to de-mist the window in the damp conditions.... As far as I’m aware. No EP3 came from factory with A/C and they were all fitted at dealer level. I would assume wiring is already there and it’s a case of plug in (plus charge with refrigerant) and play.

Secondary O2 sensor monitoring has probably been switched off within your map so that’s why there’s no fault code. However I’d still check the wiring and correctly insulate it to prevent any further problems in the future.

Civic Type R owners on Facebook also has plenty of info around TDI North.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ram air effect doesn’t really work until at very fast speeds. Not aware of how the FN2 design is, but any air intake that has sharp or multiple bends will effect the air flow, as well as the size. Ideally you want the air take in a cool area with the pipe work as straight as possible. That’s why...

Romain Levesque used to map for Eurospec but sounds like he doesn’t anymore. Again he seems to move about using different dynos. He’s sometimes very local to me sometimes using the dyno at Perfect Touch in Hertfordshire. But like I said he’s all over the place so probably best to contact him...

There’s a few places/people if you start coming towards London. Some tuners are starting to become more mobile and hire out dyno time around the country.

Personally I’d look for someone more locally for tuning. You won’t gain anything more travelling further for mapping.

It depends on how you play it. If you want the car but can’t really afford it. You put little deposit down, small monthly payments and get shafted at the end. If you’re smart, buy a car that will have good resale, good size deposit, decent amount for monthly payments and you’ll end up in credit...

You’re spot on there. Unless it’s stated to apply grease or oil to the threads (sometimes required on head bolts/studs) then always keep the threads dry and more importantly clean.

Would you apply grease to something that requires friction to stay in place?.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No you can’t. A connector has to be soldered into the ECU to be able to connect the K100/KPRO.

Different rules for different markets. From the manufacturer's point of view, it might be ok for the Spanish market but not the U.K. market.

You’ll be disappointed to know it’s not very loud at all. Obviously it’s not a normal Akrapovic exhaust as it has to meet zee Germans approval. Even has a VW part number on it. Saves around 10kg in weight and looks pretty though.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Many manufacturers have over the times have had approved modified parts and remaps. It’s just with some brands, their views and warranty procedures sometimes put a stop to it and to some it’s really not worth the hassle. At the end of the day. The warranty only covers a ‘manufacturing defect’...

I don’t think there’s enough copper slip on them coilover threads.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run 17x8 ET35. Rear arches need a little rolling. You could probably get away with a lower offset on the front to increase the front track. But to some it can be aggro having odd size wheels/tyres between front and rear.

Any modification not approved by the manufacturer will increase the risk of voiding the warranty. On the other hand, manufacturers are recognising people want fancy intakes and exhaust, slowly they’re starting to include them as optional extras. For example. New Golf R has Akrapovic titanium...

I bought an NTK (same company as NGK) from Euro car parts years ago and has been ok since. Check the wiring also as the connector plug is under the car and can give intermittent readings because of water and dirt ingress.

That’s right. Whatever pads you use, in particular the standard carbon metallic type, it will put some of its material onto the disc (can also cause brake judder if used in hard conditions). Stick some sintered or ceramic based material pads in for example and you’ll contaminate the pads which...

You need to start with the fault code errors and eliminate them before going any further. Knock sensor fault could be in turn causing the vtec fault as it may not engage vtec due to wrong or missing knock readings. If wiring to the knock sensor is ok. I’d replace that. Genuine Honda sensors are...

Looking at that. The rear toe was out of specification and has been adjusted. They haven’t touched the front. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Take some figures with a pinch of salt. Some pads claim a high temperature rating but it’s not for consistent running. I’d be amazed if anyone can keep their brakes at a constant 700°C plus. More likely you’ll hit a peak temperature around this for a brief few seconds before coming off the...

You can buy a genuine Honda clutch cheaper than an Exedy....

The TPMS that measures wheel rotation (more specifically wheel rotation frequency) isn’t the most accurate and can be triggered by other means. As said driving the car hard can cause the light on, difference of a few mm of tread between the tyres, wheel buckle, hitting pot holes etc. Ideally...

Yes Honda can code the immobiliser.

It’s fairly normal these days for cars to eat inner edges. Happens across many brands and it’s due to how the suspension is designed. Excellent handling will always compromise tyre wear. How quickly or severe it happens depends a lot on driving styles and driving conditions.

Personally aim for anything FIA approved.

You’ll find majority of FK2 and FK8 owners have bought the car, marketed as a track orientated car, but use it solely for the road. Then proceed to claim it’s not a good road car..... (awaits bites) As for the rear brakes I’ve found sometimes track dependent it can work the rear brakes harder...

Only time I ever lost wheel centre caps on my EP3 was after track use. Excessive wheel heat would deform the plastic cap and eventually they would fall off. With that in mind, is a brake caliper binding and seizing causing excessive heat to the wheel?

Grooved and drilled discs can aid keeping the brakes cooler and cleaning the pad surface reducing glazing. Nothing you’d feel on the road or occasional track use. The Brembo name means nothing unless you’re spending in the region of 4 figures for their products. Cheap drilled discs tend to crack...

You’re correct with taking account the VTC angle when going into vtec. You need to try match the VTC angle between the low and high cam at cross over point to reduce any power dips. As for boosted applications I have no experience. At a guess I’d imagine vtec would start relatively low in the...

Injen has a better designed filter (velocity stack built inside the filter) and the pipe diameter is bigger at 3 inches. I’ve previously had the ITG Maxogen. I liked the filter for it’s look and sound but the route the air takes to your engine isn’t very direct which causes restrictions and not...

Scrap both and get the injen cold air intake. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another one for either failing engine/gearbox mounts or a worn driveshaft and/or CV joints. Be also worth checking wheel alignment if you haven’t already have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does seem a little thick personally. Modern engines are made to such high and tight tolerances that you require a thin grade oil to correctly lubricate the engine. 5w30 is the grade Honda recommend. 5w40 is popular as it has a slightly thicker viscosity at high temperatures which will help with...

You can access the sensor from under the bonnet. You’ll need to remove the airbox to gain access.

Vehicle speed works off a sensor that’s bolted into the gearbox and is driven by the final drive/differential. On the clutch change they would of needed to disconnect the wiring to this sensor. I’d guess it’s either not connected correctly or either the sensor and/or wiring is damaged.

Engine torque figures can be fixed by a torque multiplier.... also known as a gearbox. EP3 with it’s higher redline can afford to have a close ratio gearbox in comparison to say the MK5 Golf GTI. Meaning the amount of torque that actually transmits to the wheels is similar. As for handling. The...

Personally I find the EP3 not boosted and tuned well in both engine and chassis a much better/fun car and in the right hands just as quick as something boosted. Some boosted set ups I’ve seen look to be reliable but have to be done right and aren’t cheap to achieve. Others I’ve seen tear apart...

Exactly this. It’s only on the points where the timing casing and camshaft cap meet the cylinder head as oil could escape along the join line. The rest of the gasket should just have a light smear of fresh engine oil applied (just like when changing an oil filter) to prevent the seal pinching...

Hats off to both you and the dealership for getting it all resolved. From a dealership point it’s just as frustrating trying to resolve the problem. I’ve just been in a similar situation trying to diagnose a running issue that’s taken 4 weeks to resolve after numerous messages, phone calls to...

Check your crankcase breather system.

Immobiliser light would be flashing on the dash if that was the case? Unless a well known Honda tuner has had their hands on it and removed the bulb from the dash.....

Don’t think I’ve ever seen a non OEM ‘upgraded’ clutch last for any decent time. Exedy are OEM so you can guarantee their upgraded clutch should have some quality about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Signs of the timing skipping a few teeth. When you turn the engine off. Either the crank shaft, camshafts or both will rock back slightly in the opposite direction of rotation. If the chain is stretched or the tensioner is worn, as one of the shafts rocks back, it’ll skip a tooth or more. Come...

Well aware the internals are. I own a set of GT1’s and have since they were first released. Even had them rebuilt and met the guys from B.A.D who build them. The comment was more of a wind up to Chris who slated any coilover that didn’t require a mortgage to buy. ;)

Thought MeisterR were just the same as all other Taiwanese tosh? [emoji6]

The anti roll bar will prevent the lower arm from going down if the other side is either has the weight of the car on it or the shock is still attached. You either need to detach the roll bar. Or disconnect both sides from the shock and lower them both at the same time. There will be some...

I’d be blaming the last person to previously fit the wheels as it’s obvious they were over tightened. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is the grey area. Did the customer provide all the information required? Far too often customers turn up and just say ‘there’s a noise from the front, fix it’. On the other hand. Did the booking centre or the service advisor ask all the correct questions to get the information out of the...

Fairly sure even just using the key that it still sets the alarm. They tell you not to set the alarm because some vehicle systems detect vehicle movement and if the channel crossing is a little rough it can set alarms off. EP3’s alarms won’t go off as it’s a much more simple system. So don’t...

Yep poly bushes do squeak. They normally supply grease to coat the bushes but after a while it wears off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In defence to the dealership. If the noise wasn’t present at the time of test they’re not going to know where to look first. Also they’re not going to remove the wheels and brakes to remove a dislodged stone for nothing. I also bet none of you customers would be prepared to pay the dealership...

PRB from a DC5.

Been using Buddy Club RCA’s for a good 3-4 years with plenty of track abuse. Zero problems. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep get a laptop and download Kmanager. You’ll need the right lead to connect into ecu from your laptop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oxygen bleeds through rubber so you’re less likely to lose tyre pressure. Nitrogen can give more stable pressures. Normal air obviously has a few different elements in it which will all expand at different rates. Real world it will never be that noticeable. Only worth it if you’re in a race team...

Use your KPRO and do some data logging. Might help point you in the right direction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

DS2500 are ok. They fade after some abuse and that was driving an EP3. I’d imagine with around 100bhp extra and a few hundred KG of extra weight you’ll kill them pads on track. As this thread is titled track pads. We need not to worry about how they perform day to day? For a small light car...

Doesn’t look pretty, but it’s far less restrictive and better at sound suppression. No one cares what the car looks like on track, only how fast you’re going. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Someone done it on the CTRO forum. From memory it was the last 1-2k revs where it really held back on power. There’s different types of bungs as well. The usual types are very restrictive. These are less restrictive and more effective. Come at a premium though...

It’ll need adjusting either way as you’ve disturbed the suspension and all the settings will have changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes the suspension geometry changes when you change the height so it’ll be way out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I spent months searching for a good EP3 nearly 6 years ago. Unfortunately many of these cars have fallen into bad hands. Also people’s opinion of ‘mint condition’ varies so much. To me it means close to showroom condition. To others it means it has 3 out of 4 wheels fitted.... 6 years ago I paid...

Yea a little more vibration. If you have K100/KPRO raising the idle to 1000rpm helps with the idle vibrations. The standard front and rear mounts are pathetic. Far to much movement. Sacrifice a little vibration to cure the excessive engine movement seems logical to me. Engine inserts are a must...

Have inserts in my EP3. Half the interior has been hacked to fit a half roll cage. Zero rattles. No wedging of foam anywhere either. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Probably 9/10 V.A.G engines.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk