Search results

They wern't the fastest as the track was damp. I *think* I did a 2.20ish lap, it may have been slower. The day was full of red flags, including one on the sighting lap when a clio dropped its oil everywhere. I still may make it, but I won't be buying another EP3. Just put a deposit down on an RX8.

Theres a chance I'll have a new EP3 by then, I could be tempted. Whats the cost? Heres how my old one did (sorry for the crap picture, the camera I intended to use decided not to work on the day, so this was the back up): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px6lPcXa4fE

The gasket looked ok, but too much copper slip could have been an issue. When I torqued up the new plug, it was fairly easy to turn it some more yet.... I'm wondering has someone over-tightened it in the past? However the sting in the tail is that the cylinder has been damaged. After a test...

New coil and plug fitted. Car feels much better and smoother, makes me wonder how long its been slowly unwinding itself. Will drive for 100 miles or so and then re-torque the plug to make sure its in correctly. Then give it 250 miles and triple check.

Its sounds worse than it was. It was the force of air being pushed out of the cylinder, hopefully it will have blown all the crap clear with it. I fitted a plug from another cylinder this morning and was able to torque it up correctly, so there is some thread left at least. So now all I need to...

Yeah could well be. The worrying thing is that when I went to move the car the remains of the spark plug blew out of the head. It seems the coilpack had melted to the sides and that was creating the pressure seal for the cylinder. The thread on the plug looks undamaged, but I'm not 100% sure if...

Which ever suits.

Leaving them open shouldn't effect anything, but you could block them off with the spare bit of pipe for ease of mind.

I found the root cause of the misfire I've had on cylinder #3 Any idea what could cause such a thing?

Bought and fitted a throttle body off of Ebay which came with all the sensors fitted and the idle issue is resolved. However the missfire that came and went the other night is back. More work to do.

The pipe thats been removed is one of two that feed engine coolant from the engine to the throttle body and back again. Its designed to help the car start on very cold days. It also leads to heat soak into the throttle body when at the engine is up to temperature. Its called the Throttle Body...

Well took it for a spin and it was back to cutting out when having to idle. Also managed to get a video of it cutting out whilst at idle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AofWEAKL9xc&feature=youtu.be

Well I'm not sure if that worked, or it cured itself. I've just gone out to the car to do some more investigation work and the low idle is gone. Its back up to 750rpm, where it should be. However now the car as a misfire and I got P0303 on the scan: Misfire Cyl. 3 Or Random Misfire Now I'm stuck.

Thanks, I shall give that a try.

Right it seems an "Italian Tune Up" has solved the VTEC fault. It comes in as and when it should. However now when out driving, if I allow the revs to drop to idle (say at a T junction etc), then the engine stalls. The rev's drop right off. Any ideas or is it new IACV time>

Thats not repairable. The rear quarter panel is part of the cars actual shell, and its clearly been damaged.

Somewhere around 115 and 120mph on the main straight at Elvington during a track day. Engine felt like it had a lot more to give before I had to brake.

I've got/had a similar issue, and would like to see if anyone has come across this in the past. My idle would be fine for a minute or two, and then hunt between 1K and 3K going up and down constantly. I followed this guide: http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=660756&highlight=iacv When...

A sheered bolt will be a hell of a lot easier to sort. I'll get the new part ordered and then crack the cover off and see whats what.

I may have too, but I want to try myself first. Looks like I need part number 6 in this diagram: Even then theres no telling if replacing that part will fix it. At least if I can't I can give the part to the garage to sort.

Got a feeling this could turn into a mjor issue. In the process of removing the rocker cover off of the block to check the valve clearances, one of the six bolts that holds the rocker cove on spins freely. It will not come off at all. Its at the back of the block to make it harder. Whats...

Yes, I just realised that.... Still you got it done.

You should be able to remobe the bushes without having to remove the drop-links. Just remove the C clamp as on your 328. This photo seems to indicate it can be done:

My car also had this fault when I bought it. In my case a good soaking in WD40 sorted it.

I've searched high and low and cannot find anything, there are things for the face-lifted cars as doug points out. I have considered buying a Mugan lower Lip and opening up the back of the ducts on there. However I'm looking at the cheaper options first. From removing the bumper, there does...

I use them for my track days and I can consistently out brake other cars. They may not be the best in some peoples eyes, but their still bloody good.

Has anyone found a way of running some air from the front and onto the disc face? I've seen solutions for the face life, but not the pre. The past two track days I've done, the front's have taken a hell of a beating. I'd like to be able to cool them a bit more.

Its the first time I've done it, although they did say they've changed the layout slightly. The first part of the corner leading to the straight is a lot slower, due to a farmer moving his sheep fairly close. I've gone for the Blyton option this Sunday.

Looks a good lap. I'm think of doing either Croft or Blyton next weekend, but can't decide. I've not done either before, so which is the better experience? I hope you don't mind a bit of spam on your thread, but here is me at Elvington a few weekends back...

Brilliant, thank you.

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get that from? I wouldn't mind some extra roll over protection in my car.

Heres one of my vids from the day: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Px6lPcXa4fE At some point before this run I managed to snap my exhaust just before the back box. So this was my last run of the day. The aspect ratio is a little weird, but my camera failed also, so I rigged my iPhone up at the...

Make sure everything is tight. I had a phantom knock, changed Track-Rods, Dampers, Ball-Joints and Top-Mounts. In the end it was a brand new drop-link that wasn't tight enough. Have you checked the top-mounts? Their quite common.

Glad I'm not the only one whos had trouble with these. Had to drill one out when I replaced my rears.

Heads up on this one, its going quite cheap at the moment. £79 for an open pit-lane all-dayer: http://www.javelintrackdays.co.uk/trackday/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=941itemid&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1 I'm booked on and looking forward to it. Good mix of cars so far as...

Well thats sorted. New caliper fitted, took the time to fit braided brake pipes whilst I was at. The car is back on the road.

Yeah the piston is very dead. The little notch you can see that goes right round that can be seen in your photos is actually rusted through in places. I took it off, gave everything a clean and its now locked on very tight to the disc. I have whole new caliper on order.

I hope a quick seeing too on Sunday should fix it. By seeing too, I mean a clean and lube of the piston and sliders.

Car went for its MOT today and failed on both rear drop-links and a sticking front N/S brake. The drop-links will be no bother, although I fear the grinder may be called upon. The brake is more of a concern as being as vital as they are, its not one I want to get wrong. Any advice for giving...

Seems mine might be down to a loose bolt on a drop-link.... Car went in for its MOT today, and that was found. Cars also got a binding front N/S brake which does not help.

I'm starting to think mine is the steering rack. I replaced the suspect lower ball joint, and the noise is still here.

Get it to Kwik Fit* and get it up on their rocker. They put the car in the air and rock it by the wheels. You can work out quite quickly what the cause is. Be aware that noises can travel, I was sure my OS front suspension was at fault. On the rocker it turned out it was the NS lower ball joint...

Just an update. After changing Suspension Mounts, Shocks and track rod ends, the lower left ball joint is the issue. With the car up in the air on a rocker, you can feel the ball joint snapping/clicking/jumping as the car rocks back and forth. Not something you can really test on your own with...

I'm begining to suspect that too. Heres one to consider: could it be the suspension spring? Mine have some very obvious wear marks where the top two rings have been touching.

The KYB top mounts haven't solved my noise either. Track Rod ends next.

After getting all the other rattles sorted, mine started making a banging/knocking from the front OSR, I suspect its the top mount. Its not a hollow noise, but a real metal on metal noise. Happens seemingly at random, turning, going straight, going over bumps, not going over bumps. I have some...

Using the Torque app for Andriod, I've managed a life time average of 38.7mpg. Its recently gone up 0.1mpg as I did a full service. My driving is 75% 60 and 70mph roads.

Are there any guides for changing the chain? Mines at 138,000 now and for peace of mind I'd like to change it.

I've had similar issues and I seem to have cured it by re-securing the bottom of the Exhaust manifold heatshield (it had rotted through and become loose at the bottom), replacing both front drop-links and removing the drive shaft heatshield.

I think I understand, and yes it should. When I bought my car it had a generic cone filter sitting at the top of the engine, being fed via CAI stuck in the OEM intake hose. I got a second hand airbox off of ebay and put it into place. However the part Moab78 is describing wouldn't link up with...

Too soon for me. I have a trip to France and the 24hrs of Le Mans to pay for. If you organise one for the Autumn I will try and make it.

Photos look really good, really need to get a day booked myself.

Squeaky noisey bushes are common on the Alfa 147/156/GT family. Spraying the bush with some silicone spray helps the noise go away (but is not a cure). The reason is the rubber feeds on the silicone and swells up. Might be worth a try to see if it improves things, but again its not a long term...

Very tempted by this, I've done Cadwell in my Smart (see avatar) more than once, would love to see how the EP3 copes.

Not sure what the correct term is, but last night what remains of the panel behind the front bumper fell down and was dragging on the road. Does anyone have a picture of what this panel should look like, or better yet know its name? Its the one which has the two cut outs for the front tow hooks...

I've noticed my car pulling left. The tyre at that corner also refused to hold the correct pressure, it would always be 5-6psi below where it should be. So last night I swapped it for the rear tyre and this morning it's stopped pulling.

The first thing when I picked my car up was to have a look at the under body rust. After losing an Alfa 156 to rusty sills, I'm not getting caught again. There's little point in putting waxoil onto rust, as it will only hide it, not stop it. To start with I jacked the rear end up and supported...

You will be for the first lap: then you'll be enjoying yourself too much. Have a good read of this thread for some advice and tips: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=18&t=1322205&mid=358994&i=0&nmt=First+timer+%2D+preparing+for+1st+track+day&mid=358994

Big end bearings sound worse as you go up the revs.

That I don't know, hopefully someone with more experience with Hondas will.

A quick google confirms its the knock sensor. If resetting the ECU won't solve it (ie unplug the battery for an hour, keeping radio codes etc to hand), then a new sensor may be required.