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Will check tomorrow Chiffs or Monday at latest. I do remember that i searched and searched for refurb kits but decided that the exchange calipers where the best option. Mind you i had to replace the handbrake cables at the same time which was a serious "bend over from Honda price" Will be in...

Let me get back to you on this one. I replaced both rear calipers from the local motor factor. Im sure it was £150 for both on an exchange basis. They where Nissin replacements.

It wont just plug and play im afraid,not all the plugs are the same. I have a brand new CRV unit along with the wiring loom from the CRV. Had planned to fit this into my CTR but decided to go for a single unit instead. Imo its within the skills of a good auto eletrician to wire this into a CTR...

Need to do this myself.

Found this info very interesting. With EP3 steering rack mainly everything is OK, there are 2 causes for creaking rack problem and knocking: 1) Yes, one of the issue is lack of grease! Racks are poorly lubricated and after a couple of years, the grease wears out and got dry! 2) Second...

Thanks for the response James. Out of interest can you source the Js racing inverted tie rod ends for an EP3 and if so what kinda money are we talking? I have the roll centre correctors and Js steering arms but just cant seem to source the inverted ends from Js. Pm if you like. Si

Very nice car James. Can i ask how you found the js roll centre adjusters? I have them fitted but within under a year both boots split and the cir-clips that where supplied with the kit i had to throw away as they where so soft. I didnt get them from yourselves but i just have not found anyone...

Apart from the obvious things to look for in a used car(accident damage/abuse) the Civics steering rack will be the most costly fault to fix if its gone and out of warranty.

Get pics up asap of it fitted mate. Looks just what im looking for:twisted:

:smt023

Ever had it dynoed without mods? Whats the mileage? Just want to win the prize.

You can not change the camber on the rear of a CTR(safely) without rear camber adjusters. The only adjustment you can make on the rear(standard) is for toe. Buy the rear camber arms(get front bolts to) from spc/eibach/k-sport its only around an hour to change them and then go to a decent...

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=39684&highlight=k-pro+vs+unichip The second test(page two) is what your looking for.

Have been searching for that link myself so cheers guys.

I could be persuaded to part with my Unichip For £150+ postage if anyone is interested? Postage would be about a fiver. Si

:roll: Nice constructive comment there Fire :roll:

TDI mate! Might be far but worth the journey imo. I travel from Scotland to go there if thats any help.

Thanks for making this a sticky mods 8) A lot of time and effort went in to this and its good to let people see what the full story is. Thanks Si

Have you bought it yet :?:

Terry buy buy buy!!!!!! That is a steal if its legit mate.

Would have to agree with you there CTR. It was a great day down at TDI and would thank Paul once again. 8)

As a continuation of this test Paul from TDI contacted me through my local tuner who maintain my car (zportec.com) with an invitation to come to his workshop and conduct a similar test as we had carried out at Dastek. I felt this was a very good idea as it would give everyone a chance to see the...

Would agree with you there tp. More power is always available but sometimes its not safe. Paul was very open about this and would rather i came back to him for further tuning with my engine intact than hit the headlines with a "look how much power this car is making"but for how long type deal...

On the CTR its caused by water getting between the heat sheild under the passenger seat and the back pipe of the exhaust. Bit unnerving when you hear it as it sound like a miss fire but its nothing to worry about.

Had it fitted to my car for 6 months Chris on and off. I did have one hot start problem(as mentioned in my post)but it didnt happen again. I know some folks have had more problems than this but this is my experiance with the Unichip.

Thanks for the positive feedback guys 8) Yes the K-Pro can alter cam angles which the Unichip cant. I still recon the K-pro is the best for the CTR especially as you go further in your mods. But this test does show you have an option with the Unichip to get good gains for a bit less money.

K-PRO & UNICHIP Well folks this topic may cause a bit of a stir round the forums but I will try and put down the full story as it happened. I may add right from the start that it is not my intention to slag one product or company but what you may find from this post makes for some...

That is a first class post Trung. I had considered these years ago when i had a mad Fiat Uno Turbo running big power but after reading that im glad i didnt.

197 at the flywheel mate is manufacturers figures. These power figures are at the wheels. The only true/important figure IMO.

If you know the settings(ABP settings) and find a four wheel alignment garage that you trust then there is nothing to it really. Everyone raves about this GUY and this COMPANY setting there suspension which is fair enough, but if you can find someone who knows there stuff and is willing to...

Going to get this done soon. Thanks for the settings G

I would agree. Check my sig to see the power i got with only those mods mentioned with K-pro. Worth every penny.

TP earthing kits do do the job but for ultimate 8) 8) HKS is the way to go.

Cheers. Will do that tomorrow.

Thanks for the reply,do you know exactly how they are "butchered" Just want to get enough info before i take the plunge.

Got a chance at four Koni Shocks brand new and wondering whats involved with fitting? My understanding is that you have to use some parts from the original strut. Is that right? I dont mean the top mounts etc. Something to do with the original strut assembly me thinks. Thanks in advance.