04 Accord Euro R (CL7)

[CL7-R]

Everything installed but there's a thumping noise coming from the rear left coilover. I think I'm going to have to take it down and see if the preload setting is correct as it sounds like the spring is losing contact with the shock mount. Other than that the car rides quite nicely. Currently have it set to the softest settings at the rear (until I get the thump sorted) and about 5 clicks from soft on the front but even now I can feel the difference over my previous Neuspeed Koni/Tein SS spring setup. Turn in is much sharper and the general feel of the car is so much better. Outside of the low speed thump all of the clunking I used to have with the Konis is gone. My only 'disappointment' is that the rear of the car isn't as low as I hoped it would be and I'm at the lowest setting but I still have to wait and see how it 'settles'. I'll post some pics in a week or so.

If anyone had a similar thump I'd appreciate your input if you found a solution.

Regards,

CL7-R

Pre-load adjusted...problem solved...rides like a dream...

CL7-R

 

[SicklyPilot]

8)

 

[JDMTME]

Have you changed your exhaust manifold yet? Or you still running standard?

 

[Loxy]

Have u changed ur exhaust manifold yet? Or u still running standard?

Please mind the text speak.
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?69042-View-on-Text-Speak

 

[CL7-R]

Have you changed your exhaust manifold yet? Or you still running standard?

It's been a while since I've posted so I guess an update is necessary. Yeh I changed over to a full stainless steel header and de-cat or straight pipe by Weapon R. A lot of people deem the brand as 'rice' or junk but I saw test results of it and it really works well and rivals the greats like J's Racing and Toda as far as HP gains.

Pic of the header:

De-cat pipe:

Dyno chart after install on a K24 Acura TSX (sister model in the US) showing a clear 20HP increase in power...this was proof enough for me...

Did some reading on intakes and the importance of flow rates etc. I basically bought the largest K&N filter I could get to fit the standard intake pipe. Vtec sound is much louder (which is always good) but I was pleased with the results. There was a distinct difference in how the car pulled after I removed the old intake set up which is really intended for the DC5 Integra Type R. The pic:

To combat the high engine bay temperatures I bought some ducting for less than US$20 on Amazon and routed it to the filter. My intention is to have a box fabricated around the filter, not necessarily to seal it off, but to ensure it pulls as much air from in front of it rather than behind. The ducting pic (this was actually too short so I sold it and replaced it with a longer black one; about 38 inches long):

The noise of the single exit exhaust finally got to me (a definite sign of old age) and I started to have a thing for that 'sleeper' type look Euro cars have so I went from the single out to a dual set up. On cold start it's still pretty loud but settles down to a nice rumble...only at idle though...lol; it's enough to keep the 'fuzz' off my back though. I hate the unwanted attention really...brought in barrels and a splitter and got everything welded up...

Two shots:

A clip (hope it loads):

[video]http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/beardogzz/media/VE1347588869548.mp4.html[/video]

Have a few bits and bobs to add on - Mugen fan switch and thermostat along with a P2R intake manifold gasket but my biggest purchase to date was a Hondata KPro with a dual harness.

The 'epicness!!!'

As she stands today:

 

[Loxy]

Very nice car bud. :smt023

 

[JDMTME]

I'm proper contemplating on getting that weapon r manifold. it's good value over other big brands. How is it holding out? No cracks?

Would this fit onto standard back box?

 

[CL7-R]

Very nice car bud. :smt023

Thanks mate!

 

[CL7-R]

I'm proper contemplating on getting that weapon r manifold. it's good value over other big brands. How is it holding out? No cracks?

Would this fit onto standard back box?

The Weapon R was made for the Euro R not the TSX even though it's bought primary for the TSX. They have to change the flanges etc for it to hook back up to the standard cat-back system but everything bolts back up on the Euro R. If you purchase from where I advised you to, be sure to get the 'defouler' as this stops the ECU from throwing a CEL because, without it, the secondary O2 sensor is exposed to too much of the raw exhaust gases. My only issue was how the sensors hang from mine with the sensors pointing down at an angle. May just be my old piping sagging or whatever but if you order and yours appear this way it might be best to have the de-cat pipe altered (cut the flanges and turn the pipe between them to be sure that both sensors sit flat and in line with the bottom of the car.

 

[NYA]

Loving the sound of the twin cans, awesome work bud

 

[CL7-R]

Loving the sound of the twin cans, awesome work bud

Thanks mate...

 

[Linus27]

Love the look of the Accord and would consider one after the EP3.

I don't know much about these cars. What the difference between an Accord Euro R and an Accord Type S? Is the Euro R an import and exactly the same or is there a difference?

 

[JDMTME]

Love the look of the Accord and would consider one after the EP3.

I don't know much about these cars. What the difference between an Accord Euro R and an Accord Type S? Is the Euro R an import and exactly the same or is there a difference?

The Euro R share the same engine as the JDM Ep3 and Dc5 (K20a engine with LSD) a few difference compared to the type s is different suspension and has recaros inside. Euro r is import only. I believe that is all. Just purchased one myself after seeing CL7-R's Car.

 

[Linus27]

The Euro R share the same engine as the JDM Ep3 and Dc5 (K20a engine with LSD) a few difference compared to the type s is different suspension and has recaros inside. Euro r is import only. I believe that is all. Just purchased one myself after seeing CL7-R's Car.

Thanks you. So improving the suspension on the Type S and maybe fitting an LSD which bring it closer but generally, they are not too different anyway. From what I've seen, the prices of the Type S are a far bit lower than a Euro R. Plus, a fair few Type S Accords for sale but not many Euro R's.

 

[JDMTME]

Thanks you. So improving the suspension on the Type S and maybe fitting an LSD which bring it closer but generally, they are not too different anyway. From what I've seen, the prices of the Type S are a far bit lower than a Euro R. Plus, a fair few Type S Accords for sale but not many Euro R's.

Engine can be found easily and aftermarket Coilovers for a type s. I have a friend who has a type s (k24) with aftermarket Coilovers and for some reason his one feels loose not as stiff. Two different rides, the euro r does have more of a type r driving style. I'm not sure if the Euro R may have a stronger chassis? Interior is petty much impossible to get hold of as they are so rare.

 

[Linus27]

Engine can be found easily and aftermarket Coilovers for a type s. I have a friend who has a type s (k24) with aftermarket Coilovers and for some reason his one feels loose not as stiff. Two different rides, the euro r does have more of a type r driving style. I'm not sure if the Euro R may have a stronger chassis? Interior is petty much impossible to get hold of as they are so rare.

I think the Euro R sounds the best but would have to try and drive both.

 

[CL7-R]

Engine can be found easily and aftermarket Coilovers for a type s. I have a friend who has a type s (k24) with aftermarket Coilovers and for some reason his one feels loose not as stiff. Two different rides, the euro r does have more of a type r driving style. I'm not sure if the Euro R may have a stronger chassis? Interior is petty much impossible to get hold of as they are so rare.

Au contraire...lol. The EP3's engine produces a little less power due to its intake manifold design I believe (it uses a K20A2 variant and not the JDM K20A); they're rated at 200ps vs the 220ps of the DC5 and CL7 . The CL7 is, however, the heaviest. The DC5 Integra also uses hydraulic power steering while the Euro R uses an electronic setup. The Type S and Euro R use the same basic double wishbone suspension making it perfect for circuit racing and were a popular choice in the ETCC and WTCC at 1 point. The Euro R may, however, use firmer spring rates and different sway bars from the factory (your friend's coilovers might be at fault). These cars are made on the same production lines in Japan (the Acura TSX and Accord Euro R for sure, the Accord Euro and Type S may be made in France) so they're not going to retool to make such small changes. The Type S interior is the same as the Acura variant and it's not that hard to get the Euro R interior (outside of the front seats which also came in other vehicles like some of the Mitsu Evolution series) you just have to know where to look...Japan.

 

[JDMTME]

Au contraire...lol. The EP3's engine produces a little less power due to its intake manifold design I believe (it uses a K20A2 variant and not the JDM K20A); they're rated at 200ps vs the 220ps of the DC5 and CL7 . The CL7 is, however, the heaviest. The DC5 Integra also uses hydraulic power steering while the Euro R uses an electronic setup. The Type S and Euro R use the same basic double wishbone suspension making it perfect for circuit racing and were a popular choice in the ETCC and WTCC at 1 point. The Euro R may, however, use firmer spring rates and different sway bars from the factory (your friend's coilovers might be at fault). These cars are made on the same production lines in Japan (the Acura TSX and Accord Euro R for sure, the Accord Euro and Type S may be made in France) so they're not going to retool to make such small changes. The Type S interior is the same as the Acura variant and it's not that hard to get the Euro R interior (outside of the front seats which also came in other vehicles like some of the Mitsu Evolution series) you just have to know where to look...Japan.

You're right about the seats, I have same ones in my Evo 6 TME



Just different colours.

 

[CL7-R]

Added a little 'bling' today...rear bumper LED reflectors...

[video]http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/beardogzz/media/20130519_183541.mp4.html[/video]

 

[CL7-R]

Actually got my car dyno'd on Saturday...it put down a humble 185whp with just exhaust mods. Was trying to find a decent calculation to work out the hp at the flywheel but saw a lot of conflicting info; some people estimate losses through the drivetrain from 6 - 25% so I really don't know. Hoping to install the K-Pro and see what gains can be had. Graph below: