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any one use MILLERS CFS NT NANODRIVE?????

I've already answered.

Use ANY 5w40 fully synthetic, it doesn't matter what 'brand'.


I wouldn’t necessarily agree with this , there is a MASSIVE difference between brands of 5w40 , the way the oil is produced and the additives that are included vary wildly ,

Nanodrive is rumored to contain tiny tiny tiny titanium particles , helping `lubricate` the bearings and other rotating parts, also the additives that help it `cling` to the engine when it is turn off for prolonged times come in to play in the costs,

While if you own a k20 engined vehicle and potter to work and back for 20k miles in its time of ownership you might not see any negative effects, however , if you were to run 2 engines one serviced with higher quality oil and filter every 5k and the other with budget brands , after 100k miles there will be a more noticeable effect on engine wear and bearing/journal/piston clearances.

Oilman from OpiOils is your man to fill your head with all the exact details.
 
Pish that mate. A semi synthetic 5w40, changed every 5000 miles would be just as good.
 
Although your in depth post there has clearly clarified the differences between low and high quality oil.

If its pish then why is there such a market for Fuchs titan pro at £50+ for 5litres and not the stuff for £3-5 for 5 litres from any parts retailer with less adatives and so on?

Same with filters i presume, a cheap filter that filters to 20 microns , over the years would make no difference to a higher quality filter that filters to a 5micron average?

If you feel the need to justify your statment thats its `pish` , then here are some links to talk you through the physics side of things.

http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30483

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g3115.pdf

http://www.torcousa.com/innov-lub-hp.html
 
Oil choice is a personal thing, the fact remains that a 5w40 fully synthetic regardless of brand and magic fairy dust is perfectly fine for this n/a road car.

Next time you go to watch racing at your local circuit have a walk around and see what teams use what oil.

Usually whoever sponsors the team...

Check out millers 'blending' site on google maps, or any for that matter.

There really isn't that much involved with blending of base oils. One thing the 'premium' oils have in common is the higher profit margin!
 
Oh and I'm not interested in debating or anything, I simply don't care whether oil a is better than oil b. All I care about is whether oil c meets the required specification anything above that is pointless.
 
Use an oil that meets or exceeds the manufacturer specifications as defined in the handbook.

A lot of the oils sold and pushed by specialists don't meet these specs.
 
I wouldn’t necessarily agree with this , there is a MASSIVE difference between brands of 5w40 , the way the oil is produced and the additives that are included vary wildly ,

Nanodrive is rumored to contain tiny tiny tiny titanium particles , helping `lubricate` the bearings and other rotating parts, also the additives that help it `cling` to the engine when it is turn off for prolonged times come in to play in the costs,

While if you own a k20 engined vehicle and potter to work and back for 20k miles in its time of ownership you might not see any negative effects, however , if you were to run 2 engines one serviced with higher quality oil and filter every 5k and the other with budget brands , after 100k miles there will be a more noticeable effect on engine wear and bearing/journal/piston clearances.

Oilman from OpiOils is your man to fill your head with all the exact details.

like nice bro
 
Hi

I agree to an extent - a 5w-40 synthetic from a reputable company should be absolutely fine for a road car. There are a few really basic 5w-40s around that aren't exactly what they say they are - one oil company tested a few and found that while they said 5w-40 on the can, when tested, a few of them were shown to be well out of grade. One was a 20w-40, others were 5w-30 and 10w-40. That's part of why an oil from a reputable company is worthwhile, cheaper ones have less quality control, leading to more errors like that. I'm not saying everyone should buy Nanodrive, Pro S, Castrol Edge etc, but even a cheaper oil from a reputable company is better than a budget oil.

Another thing that happens with cheaper oils is that they will say that the oil 'meets the requirements of' or 'suitable where (a specification) is required' etc etc, but unless an oil is approved to a certain specification, those comments are basically worthless. They can be as misleading as the incorrect grades on the can.

Basic oils don't last as long as quality ones, so need replacing more often and can end up costing more in the end (and that's just in oil costs, not taking into account extra wear). One customer saw an extremely cheap 5w-40 from a motor factor and put it in his track car. After 2-3 laps the pressure dropped right off and after giving it a chance to cool down, he took it out on track again and the pressure never came back up properly. Okay, that oil was never designed for track use, but that just accelerated what happens on the road.

Back to topic - The Nanodrive oils are really popular, even though they cost a fair bit. Generally people buy it and stick with it at the next service, rather than going for something else, so to me that says that they have found the difference in price is worthwhile. A lot of it might be in their mind, it's difficult to quantify how much difference it makes without a lot of track use or a rolling road, but when it has been done, the results have been impressive (have a look online for the Fast Ford/Vauxhall test and there has also been a recent test in Banzai). Whether or not the extra BHP matters to you, as a road oil there is another benefit - increased mpg. One guy with a Integra went from a normal 5w-40 (a decent one, not a cheapy, but not a performance one either) and was getting 32.5mpg, then changed to the Nanodrive 5w-40 and the mpg went up to 35.5, if I remember correctly. Okay, it was based on his data rather than proper department of transport testing, but it seems to be quite a bonus in economy just from changing the oil. When I mentioned it to Millers, they said that was pretty normal based on other feedback they had received.

Cheers

Tim
 
What about the other tests that have been done? All the temps were up and down to suit Millers?
 
I'd take that with a pinch of salt, difference more likely to be ambient temps.

I think this aswell to be honest mate, I can't see a oil giving a 4bhp gain but that said from memory I think this was a independent test with the same operator on the same day. Still find it hard to believe though.
 
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