Bmc cda! Do not buy these!

[Scotttomo]

 

[JDM_Dave]

I did it again sorry, feel silly now.

 

[Scotttomo]

:lol:

 

[johngreen537]

pictures of the bmc fitted to your car please, including caf setup. You're not one of those dudes that bent the caf round 180deg to make it a front facing air feed are you..?
ftr, I had a bmc kit and it didn't last long on my car either, so I'm with you on that...but am interested to see how you fitted it

No, I'm not one of 'those' people
I'm a relatively clever bloke, even if I do say so myself, and do understand basic physics
Not sure I've got pics, but air feed pipe was taken from rear side of the CDA, flowed nicely round into the wheel arch.
TBH, I did think even the gradual curve may have been marginally restictive, so I compressed the flex pipe (due to the accordian type nature of it) let it hang loose in a straight line over the rear end of the lower engine bay, strapping it to the subframe lower brace.

As that made no difference, went on ebay for a fraction of what I paid for it!

Think the moral of the story is, only believe the hype, if it's backed up by nice pretty REAL dyno proven results, much like the Gruppe-M, Simota, Tegiwa, AEM etc etc etc have been many times over. TBH though, going back to standard with an ITG filter, is more than enough until a Gruppe-M comes along at an un-rediculous price!

So was the BMC fitted properly with a cold air feed to the bumper/wheel arch?
If it wasn't and was just taking air from the bay then that would go some way to explain, but you'd have to have the intake pipe over the exhaust manifold to get those sorts of figures surely?
Something doesn't smell right here, no sir.

I agree, something wasn't right, that's why I threw it away. I'm not saying there is a chance I just couldn't have got a bad one...

Heat soak is a factor when it come to intakes, much proven and undisputed. However, for it to steal HP over a standard airbox, many things would have to come into play really. It's not really as simple as, the air is warmer, therefor power = less.

The way I see it is, and I could be wrong, but, more factors need to be considered than just air temp...

Standard airbox, replaced with aftermarket one, doesn't matter which. = Air FLOW increased.
Aftermarket filter placement factored in = +/- some temperature difference.
Which is better, less cold air, or more warm air? = A physics equasion I've not got the time (or likely intelligence to compute!)

But, short of a clever physics lab geek type working it out, there is a curve...

Imagine 2 graphs, one for air volume, one for air density / temperature.
There is a point on each graph where at some stage, the warmer air, in higher volume, is MORE beneficial, than the cooler air, in lower volume.

Example being, if you use a Standard air box, drawing in cold /cool air, from the front light 'gap' as designed by Honda tech's, then, you are drawing in cooler air, but in much less volume than if you had a generic cone filter, which would inevitabley be warmer in the engine bay placement.

Who is clever enough at physics to calculate this?

The obvious answer is, lash out the cash, and buy the best of both worlds. Draw in high volumes of cold, dense air, as we all know.

 

[rossy t]

 

[johngreen537]

Loving the art work

 

[sharpblade1986]

Shouldn't BMC-CDA be at the same level as Mugen, ITG Maxogen and so on? It's a Carbon Box with a decent filter getting fresh air from the bumper. Any reason why it is even worse than stock airbox?

 

[johngreen537]

Yeah, that was my general thought pattern and why I bought one. Similarities, carbon, cold air feed etc.
Turned out different though!